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Routes in Windy Cave

Morning Glory S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Description

Always shaded all the time, and a cool environment, but there is only one route, so climb here at the hottest point on a hot day! A long 5.10- is on the inside of the cave. While the climbing might only be one star or two (depending on if the top is wet or not), the overall experience is 3 stars. Once inside if you look tot he right you are looking at the inside of the wall that forms Crazyhorse Buttress. A rock banged upon on the outside of Crazyhorse can be heard clearly inside the cave, as if climbing inside a drum-skin.
Warning Stainless-steel bolts are suspect near the coast. A rebolting effort is underway. Details

Getting There

Hike up and left from Crazyhorse wall as for the Aircon Wall, but after the wide switchback when the trail hits the wall again, turn right and go downhill 10 meters instead up uphill to Aircon. A small entrance is apparent, but what is not apparent is that after a 15 meter scramble you will end up in quite a large cave, open from the top down. Scamper and slither down this passage into the large room below. A headlamp is needed to climb, if not for the approach. 5 minutes in all.

1 Total Climbs

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Photos

Helen L
Toronto, Canada
Helen L   Toronto, Canada
I believe this was also the cave with the newish multi-pitch route (3-4 pitches?).. easy climbs, but very dirty. Jun 15, 2017
Levi Call
Moab Utah
Levi Call   Moab Utah
There are two climbs in the windy cave now. The 7a-ish climb that I did but don't know the name of is directly across the cave from where you come in. It trends left as it goes through overhanging terrain and it has a second pitch which I know nothing about. Great climb, I hope somebody else can provide more information on it and add it to Mtn project. Feb 18, 2015

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