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Routes in Teufelsturm

Dr. Faust S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nordwestweg T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Elevation: 1,658 ft
GPS: 39.725, 21.627 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 908 total · 9/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 9, 2009
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Description

Teufelsturm has four routes to the top all have at least some bolts, but all require gear. There is a bolted rappel route on the western side of the peak.

All routes on Teufelsturm require two ropes to descend. Be very careful to find the proper rappel. There is also a bolted ring on the summit in a flat section. It is virtually impossible to pull your joined ropes over the rough rock between the ring and rappel--believe me ascending your ropes to re-rig your rappel is no fun. The correct rappel point is very near to the edge.

Getting There

Accessing Teufelsturm is a harrowing bushwack. Everything that grows in the countryside around Meteora has thorns, spines or burrs. The routes are rarely climbed--when we got to the summit, the last entry in the summit book was from months earlier.

From the road between Kastraki and Meteora, walk 100 yards past where the road passes Dupianifels on the left. The road veers right here. Follow any trail you can find back toward Metamorphosis monastery while making sure that you stay to the left of Aghios Nikolaos Anapafsas monastery. Follow a semi-dry creek and goat trails up the valley to Teufelsturm.

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