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Routes in Teufelsturm

Dr. Faust S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Nordwestweg T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 500 ft, 4 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 202 total, 2/month
Shared By: Anthony Baraff on Jul 10, 2009
Admins: WAGbag

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Description

Climb up past the fig tree finding gear where you can. Clip the bolt and be thankful, now continue up until you find the bolted anchor to your right to make your first belay. The second pitch is a terrifying slog of 40 meters or so of chimney climbing up very soft rock. Test every stone before trusting your weight to it. You may be able to place gear; maybe it'll hold your weight. I wouldn't be in a rush to find out though. At the top of the chimney do a neat little move onto the face and up to your next bolted belay. The third pitch wanders right and up. Climb to the base of a long notch running east to the summit and set up a gear anchor. The last pitch is actually fun. Climb up the notch and off-width to the summit. There, you're done. Enjoy the incredible views of the rock and monasteries, sign the summit register and swear you will never climb that route again.

All routes on Teufelsturm require two ropes to descend. Be very careful to find the proper rappel. There is also a bolted ring on the summit in a flat section. It is virtually impossible to pull your joined ropes over the rough rock between the ring and rappel--believe me ascending your ropes to re-rig your rappel is no fun. The correct rappel point is very near to the edge.

Location

After reaching Teufelsturm (detailed in the main page), walk around the southwest side, and up into the valley between it and Metamorphosis. From the looks of it, the monk's holiness doesn't translate into any sort of environmental ethics, because the valley is filled with the detritus and trash of the monastery, old olive oil cans, roof tiles and an unpleasant smell that I'd rather not know the origin of. Hike up through loose rock, trash and stinging nettles not more than 100 feet. There is a crack with a fig tree growing out of it 20-30 feet off the deck. A bolt should be visible. This is the start of the Nordwestweg.

Protection

Trad gear with sporadic bolts and bolted belays.

Photos

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