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Elevation: 121 ft
GPS: 43.814, -69.935 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Jay D. on Jun 10, 2009
Admins: Ladd, Jonathan Steitzer, Robert Hall

Description

This crag is unknown and waiting to be developed. At up to 100 feet tall it is the only sizable cliff between Camden and the White Mountains south of Bangor. The cliff stretches almost 1/4 mile in length, and a bit of everything. Just 5 min from Brunswick and 1/2 hr from Portland, this area is a hidden pocket of climbing in the Mid-Coast region.

There are about a half-dozen cleaned routes with room for more. Read the note in the first comment for an ethics guide. The rock is loose and chossy, but climbable. Wear a helmet.

Getting There

Take Route 24 South from Cooks Corner in Brunswick and turn right on Mountain Rd. and continue to the Harpswell Town Office. Parking is in the rear of the buildng. (Note: There used to be a blurb about parking in a vacant plot of land near the crag. Please park at the town hall.)

This climb is accessed via the "Cliff Trail" The Cliff Trail is a loop, and the quicker approach is to walk it counterclockwise. A map is posted at the NE corner of back parking lot, but start hiking by heading South past the recycling center. Follow this trail til you see a sign announcing "fairy house building zone" Explore the fairy village as you follow the trail. Shortly you will come to another sign warning of a 150 foot drop. Just past the sign you will emerge on to the cliff top. Rap here or follow the cliff top left to a gully that is negotiable to the bottom. The cliff stretches in both directions. Total approach time is about 10 minutes.

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Rudy Gonsior
Harpswell
Rudy Gonsior   Harpswell
Well I've lurked around quite a bit, so guess I'll start here...

I live about 15 minutes down the road and climb/rappel here probably once a week. I just recently moved back to this area after working/living in Nepal last spring and yeah as others have said this rock is nothing to be excited about when you compare it to the rest of the world. However if you keep it in prospective, its a nice little local spot in area that is otherwise slim pickings. I like to use it just to keep proficient in some basic mountaineering skills and monkey around on when I get bored. Most of the rock is pretty choosy and or covered in moss so beware. The souther most face is the probably the best of the three and as Silas describes has some halfway decent routes, with the corner being the best of them. It is accessible via the notch just on the north side, its a bit of a scramble down but just be carful of the leaves and lose rock, the other option is a 10-15 minute trek around the south side.

In all I wouldn't recommend traveling out of ones way to visit but if you live near by it might be worth checking out. Just use caution as everyone else has said, the rock is not very good. Oct 7, 2016
Owen Silitch
Brunswick, ME
Owen Silitch   Brunswick, ME
Since the last post is from 2013 I was wondering if there was any update on the climbing here. I go to school in Brunswick and it would be really nice to have a spot I could easily drive to after classes... Oct 2, 2016
Jonathan Steitzer
West Lebanon, NH
Jonathan Steitzer   West Lebanon, NH  
This crag should be taken off the site. It's eroding, it's unstable, and its prominence is attracting some vain FA wannabees, as shown by Silas's account. Jan 23, 2013
Silas Miller
Conway, NH
Silas Miller   Conway, NH
I have climbed here quite a few times over the past years. Fun, but it is NOT a classic spot for midcoast. Although, it IS the only spot for midcoast. I climbed a half dozen routs there for years and then all of a sudden, someone put plaques under all routs with new names and over-the-top ratings. I was not happy. Who does that? Not one of them has been lead except for a beautiful 5.9 corner that actually has pretty good gear.
Anyways, let's keep it quite and stop making outlandish claims out quality and height. It's only 80 ft. for crying out loud!

There are couple 5.10+ routs, a couple easier routs and a really nice 5.9 corner. Also, an overhanging, left arching crackish project on the far right side I have not been able finish. Aug 13, 2012
DCSwish23
Maine/Spain
DCSwish23   Maine/Spain
I disagree about this being mid-coast Maine's most popular crag. I've climbed there several times and it just comes down to the fact that you can keep on tearing off layer after layer. If lots of time was put into cleaning it up it could be decent but for now it's very chossy. Just today I pulled off a crux hold and it almost landed on my belayers head. If you do climb here WEAR A HELMET. Jun 14, 2011
hasan Adil
portland,me
hasan Adil   portland,me
Thanks for the work so far. I just moved to Portland and planning to go there and check it out this weekend. Lemme know if you'd like to go with. Aug 23, 2010
Any update on this? This isn't too far from me, I'd be interested if there turned out to be some decent climbing there. Jul 15, 2010
Peter Beal
Boulder Colorado
Peter Beal   Boulder Colorado
Pretty amazing that a cliff this big was found out there. Good luck with the access! Jun 3, 2010
Jay D.
The Corner Office
Jay D.   The Corner Office
#1 - Easement for access via the private property described above is entirely UNKNOWN. I have asked around, to include persons at town hall, and the consensus is that you should access the crag via the trail behind the town hall - NOT THE PRIVATE LOT (vacant or not).

#2 - For the time being, discrete top-roping should be done. Take care to protect trees. The town hasn't granted official access to climbers, though they are aware that climbers use this resource.

#3 - This is a virgin cliff. There is a bunch of loose stuff. I've narrowly missed being hit a few times from sizable falling debris. If you set a top rope do not assume that the line is safe to climb. The rock looks granitic, but is not and is exfoliating all over.

#4 - Please refer to #2, but the placement of fixed anchors (bolts and pins), gardening, and trundling is not encouraged at this time. Jun 3, 2010

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