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Areas in Ponderosa Bouldering

Big Cat Canyon (a.k.a. Spider Canyon) 0 / 0 / 0 / 36 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 36
Booty Blocks 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Corral, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 9 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 9
Pond, The 0 / 0 / 1 / 71 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 72
Range AKA: Marlboro Country, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Satellite, The 0 / 0 / 0 / 29 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 29
Sweat Box Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Elevation: 6,500 ft
GPS: 35.686, -106.656 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 34,826 total, 305/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 3, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

Ponderosa is acclaimed as the best bouldering in New Mexico. Climbing ranges from thin face problems to steep overhung burl-fests with both lowball and highball climbing. The rock is volcanic tuff, but quite different from the popular tuff area, the Happys in California. Ponderosa doesn't have the thick and solid patina layer that the Happys does. Where there is thick patina here, it is probably choss. But where the patina is thin, it is awesome and very grainy, making for excellent pocketed face climbs. Conversely, the climbing on the underside of the boulders is quite similar to the Happys.

There appear to be classics here of all difficulties. I can't really vouch for the harder climbs, but Marc Beverly's "Jemez Rock" book covers the area well, and vouches for the quality of climbing. That said, his book also has many omissions and I noticed a couple errors.

That Beverly's book has omissions isn't really a bad thing... there are a LOT of boulders with obvious problems he doesn't document, but know they are there!

The setting is pleasant once you get away from the road - I encountered abandoned used diapers in the parking area (yuck) but the boulders are surrounded by Pinons and generally nice scenery on a gentle hillside.

It appears that people have camped under boulders, I'm not sure whether this is permitted, but there is certainly camping nearby. Just up the road is a national forest campground. Suds are available in Ponderosa, and there are more services on Hwy 4.

Getting There

From any direction, the easiest way to get to Ponderosa is via Highway 4, then go east in northern Jemez Pueblo on Highway 290 aka Forest Road 10 towards the town of Ponderosa. After you pass the only bar in Ponderosa, it is 2.6 miles to the parking area. After you pass an irrigation pond, look for the turn to the left. This is parking for the lower area. I can't tell you how to get to the upper area because I haven't been.

From the north, it is easier to turn left off of Highway 4 near the mailboxes between mile markers 33 and 34. There's also a sign saying to turn left here for Ponderosa. From here, you follow Forest Road 10 for ~15 miles, hoping you stay on FR 10 and not some other road. I went this way, but I can't tell you the exact mileage because at one point, the signs indicating you're still on 10 become rare and the road gets worse (and I turned around to see if any other roads were better - they weren't). But if you follow the straight-looking way at any intersection, you'll get there. After ~13 miles, you come upon the aforementioned national forest campground, then right before the pond, turn a soft right into the parking area.

From the gate at the end of the parking area, follow the 'road' westward towards the north end of the pond. From here, most boulders are further west, climbing a gentle ridge via a good trail, however the Cube is more northward (and visible) up the wash.

The GPS location is somewhere in the middle of the climbing.

146 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Ponderosa Bouldering

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V0+ 4+
Bonsai Slab
Boulder
V2 5+
KFAD arete
Boulder
V3- 6A
Spitoon AKA: The Scoop
Boulder
V3 6A
Picture Perfect
Boulder
V3 6A
Fannie Mae
Boulder
V4 6B
Cowboy Up, AKA: The Tall Arete
Boulder
V5- 6C
Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 ArĂȘte
Boulder
V6 7A
Pinball Simulator/ First Arete
Boulder
V6 7A
The Joker
Boulder
V7 7A+
King for a Day
Boulder
V7 7A+
NASCAR traverse
Boulder
V7 7A+
What's the Scoop
Boulder
V7 7A+
Scoop
Boulder
V9-10 7C+
The Valsalva Maneuver AKA: Left Pinba…
Boulder
V10+ 7C+
Mario Andretti
Boulder
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bonsai Slab Pond > NASCAR Boulder V0+ 4+ Boulder
KFAD arete Pond > King for a Day Boulder V2 5+ Boulder
Spitoon AKA: The Scoop Pond > Scoop Boulder V3- 6A Boulder
Picture Perfect Pond > Picture Perfect Boulder V3 6A Boulder
Fannie Mae Pond > Fannie Mae V3 6A Boulder
Cowboy Up, AKA: The Tall Arete Pond > Scoop Boulder V4 6B Boulder
Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 ArĂȘte Pond > King for a Day Boulder V5- 6C Boulder
Pinball Simulator/ First Arete Satellite > Pinball Simulator Area V6 7A Boulder
The Joker Pond > King for a Day Boulder V6 7A Boulder
King for a Day Pond > King for a Day Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
NASCAR traverse Pond > NASCAR Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder
What's the Scoop Pond > Upper Deck > Lost Descent V7 7A+ Boulder
Scoop Satellite > Pinball Simulator Area V7 7A+ Boulder
The Valsalva Maneuver AKA:… Satellite > Pinball Simulator Area V9-10 7C+ Boulder
Mario Andretti Pond > NASCAR Boulder V10+ 7C+ Boulder
More Classic Climbs in Ponderosa Bouldering »

Weather Averages

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
Owen Summerscales
Los Alamos, NM
Owen Summerscales   Los Alamos, NM
San Juan Road (lower part of FS269) looks like its closed for good now, it has vanished off the latest FS maps

fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DO…

So access to coral is by foot now - 1 mile hike in on a nice road. Access to range from north end of 269. Sep 30, 2013
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
It's closed at the first gate as you start up the first hill on FS 269 (San Juan Rd.), within a couple hundred yards of turning off the paved road (290) and crossing the small stream.

I don't know the reasons behind this, or when/if it will reopen. (You may be able to hike in from the gate, or from the Pond, but maybe they don't want people hiking in either.)

No problem getting to the Pond (or Satellite). Aug 11, 2010
Just a little clarification regarding Bob's use of the Pond and surronding areas.
An earlier statement makes it sound like Bob did nothing in this area. Bob (and a handful of others) did hundreds of problems in the Ponderosa area starting around '89-90; just nothing at the Pond itself.

Bob is as non-confrontational as you can get and does not like going anywhere near private land. He figured the Pond area was on private land and so stayed away. Plenty of other rock out there to occupy him. He did do a few things at the Pond itself one afternoon but was too uncomfortable with the private land issue to go back to that immediate area.

In the early/mid '70s, Doug Bridger, Ron Beauchamp, et others were camping in the area and did a small bit up FS 269 and out left on the jeep trail before the corral.

Edit- Isn't FS 269 closed due to the washed out bridge near the little campground ? Is the current closure at the first gate location as you start up the first small hill or closer out to the Corral area? Aug 11, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
FS road 269 is currently gated (August 2010), with a sign that says "Closed for Resource Protection". This would make it a hassle to get to the Corral, Range, Booty Box, Sweat Box. Aug 8, 2010
From what I understand the Beverly book doesn't give much attention to the Pond boulders. We were never really talked to by him other than a brief email about what all is out there, names, grades, etc from 1999 to 2004. There were hundreds of problems done in the Pond alone, not to mention the various areas up both roads in the forest service lands.

In the Pond, if it is under v11/12 and isn't crumbly and dirty, it had been climbed in those years (not so much the Upper Deck, we rarely ventured up there). We had checked back about earlier history and the place saw little action before 1998. We even got in touch with the legendary Bob Murray to see what had been done and he never went there. Hard to believe. I have added just a few standouts to the database here.

I wish they had taken the real time to consult with the main developers before putting out that guidebook. Jan 10, 2010
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
When leaving Ponderosa after a day of climbing, if it is before 5pm, stop on your way out of town at the Ponderosa Winery at the end of town closest to Hwy 4. You can sample their wines, some of there stuff is pretty good. Feb 12, 2009

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