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Routes in King for a Day Boulder

Dot Dot Space, AKA: V5 ArĂȘte V4-5 6B+
Drag Queen V10 7C+
Drama Queen V8 7B
Joker, The V6 7A
KFAD arete V2 5+
King for a Day V7 7A+
Sick On Hydrox V3 6A
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Type: Boulder
FA: some visionary (Eric Whitbeck)
Page Views: 3,339 total · 27/month
Shared By: Brian Quiter on Aug 4, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Start sitting at the bottom of an overhung vertical rail/dihedral and move upwards on the sloping rail using lots of body tension. Transfer right to a second rail as the holds get bigger and the moves get longer. Top out right of the big water spout.

Location

Located on the right side of the uphill face of the KFAD boulder. You'll notice it.

Protection

Several pads, watch the rock that effects falls near the top-out.

Photos

William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
FA Eric Whitbeck. He would be amused to be called some visionary. Really just stubborn with a capacity for suffering.

A fun problem for sure. Aug 4, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  V7
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  V7
Com'on Bill you've seen Eric's new climbing glasses, he is definatly a visionary. This thing is harder than many of the V7's at Hueco and all the V6's I've done with the exception of Lft El Murray. Sometimes though it just works and feels easy but it is very tough to do on command. Aug 14, 2008
William Penner
The 505
William Penner   The 505
He is switching careers to be an architect. Architects always have great glasses. Aug 14, 2008
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
  V7
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
  V7
I'm just saying, with glasses like those he must be able to see things we mere mortals can not. Say perhapse a great line or a sequence that makes something work, possibly just x-ray vision, now that is a scary thought. Aug 15, 2008
I checked the old topo and the original grade was v4, but who knows it could be just my glasses. Maybe I need to trade them in for bifocals. Jan 27, 2011
Owen S.
Los Alamos
  V7
Owen S.   Los Alamos
  V7
There's sandbags, then there's King For A Day. Could easily be v8 at most other climbing areas.

Awesome problem, best at the Pond Jan 4, 2015
Owen that is pretty funny. Grade it accurately in the book. The V4 rating was a joke I made after sending KFAD and falling off of Pounding Systems at Hueco the following weekend. I always thought it was V6, but I may have some trick beta not readily apparent to those without failing vision and weak fingers. KFAD's alter ego is Valkyrie Fallen at Three Gun Springs in the foothills, try that one next time you are in town. Jan 5, 2015
Owen S.
Los Alamos
  V7
Owen S.   Los Alamos
  V7
Well you can't argue with that logic Eric. I feel like griping about the grade - along with the miserable footholds - is an integral part of the King For A Day experience... maybe I'll just keep it at V4 for the book :)

And yes that Valkyrie problem looks sweet, I should try find it sometime. Jan 5, 2015

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