Elevation: 5,000 ft
GPS: 34.873, -111.753 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,881 total · 107/month
Shared By: Aerili on May 21, 2008 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

Description

A nice crag very close to the road with short but fun sport routes in the 5.7-5.12 range, plus some cool bouldering on the way in to boot. Scattered pine trees give shade when needed but most routes appear to stay in the sun most of the day. Crag walls face west/southwest. Oak Creek runs nearby if you need to cool down on the way out...but I've heard you should not drink the water!

This area is described in the Red Lizard II guide, although I have never personally looked at it; furthermore, it is apparently out of date as many new routes have been added.

Getting There

There are two ways to get there. The main approach is to cross Oak Creek by approaching from town. If the creek is too high to cross, the alternate approach is to cut over from Huckaby trail.

TYPICAL APPROACH:

Take the 89A just north of Sedona into Oak Creek Canyon (if you are coming from the south, that means drive through Sedona until you come to the major turnabout that divides uptown and downtown; turn right toward uptown).

Somewhere within 1 mile from the uptown district, look for a small spa house called Therapy on the Rocks. The parking area is actually across the road and just south of this business (lat/long: 34.874493, -111.755537). If you find yourself at Slide Rock State Park, you have gone too far. Alternatively, you can park at the free all-day municipal parking lot, a few minutes extra walking distance, and try to get one of the spots with shade. Lat/long: 34.872756, -111.760351.

PLEASE DO NOT CROSS PRIVATE PROPERTY. Cross the highway, angling south of the parking pullout as you do so. Follow the guard rail a few hundred yards to a trail and some scrambling well south of private property. Cross the creek and continue on the trail a short distance up the hill, meandering through giant sandstone boulders amid trees as you approach the crag.

ALTERNATE APPROACH:

If Oak Creek is too high to cross using the typical approach, head over to the parking lot for Munds Wagon Trail at lat/long: 34.865985, -111.748638. There's a parking fee ($5 as of Dec 2019).

Follow Huckaby Trail to the west towards Sedona. When you get to lat/long 34.868938, -111.754062, veer off the trail and hike up the few steps to get to the top ridge. Continue forward and carefully hike downhill. After about five minutes, you'll pick up a trail that takes you across to the crag, placing you next to the first big boulder. A few minutes up a relatively steep trail to the base of the crag will place you at the routes "Endless Dirty Dishes" and "Dirty Hard to Reach Areas". Total time is 40 - 50 minutes. Refer to this map for more details: https://www.mountainproject.com/photo/118179931

17 Total Climbs

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