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> Northern Arizona
> Oak Creek Canyon
A nice crag very close to the road with short but fun sport routes in the 5.7-5.12 range, plus some cool bouldering on the way in to boot. Scattered pine trees give shade when needed but most routes appear to stay in the sun most of the day. Crag walls face west/southwest. Oak Creek runs nearby if you need to cool down on the way out...but I've heard you should not drink the water!
This area is described in the Red Lizard II guide, although I have never personally looked at it; furthermore, it is apparently out of date as many new routes have been added.
Take the 89A just north of Sedona into Oak Creek Canyon (if you are coming from the south, that means drive through Sedona until you come to the major turnabout that divides uptown and downtown; turn right toward uptown).
Somewhere within 1 mile from the uptown district, look for a small spa house called Therapy on the Rocks. The parking area is actually across the road and just south of this business. If you find yourself at Slide Rock State Park, you have gone too far.
PLEASE DO NOT CROSS PRIVATE PROPERTY. Cross the highway, angling south of the parking pullout as you do so. Follow the guard rail to a trail and some scrambling well south of private property. Cross the creek and continue on the trail a short distance up the hill, meandering through giant sandstone boulders amid trees as you approach the crag.
[Hide Photo] Bee alert! Since I never saw any guide to this area, I have no idea what the name of this route is. However, I am adding this picture because we had to bail off this route quickly due to the arri…
[Hide Photo] The crag view from the far side of the creek (on approach).
[Hide Photo] The hoppable creek crossing (the only one I saw nearby). I imagine storms may cause this area to be underwater at times and/or wash away the log span some helpful climbers clearly took time to cre…