Vineyard Cove Rock Climbing
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|Shared By:||Daryl Allan on Apr 30, 2008|
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DescriptionVineyard Cove is a small, secluded granite alcove in Cochise Stronghold East. It's in the shade til 9 am or so and has shade again by 2:30 pm (so it's very bearable climbing even in the hottest months)
It is best found by turning right into the 84b free camping area of the NF (National Forest) Its basically the second right after the wooden NF sign on the main road into the Stronghold. If you take the first right (84a) just follow that dirt road around until it almost reaches the main gravel road again.
Find a fence with an open gate under trees and park here. A level trail (1 minute approach) will take you to the wall.
The alcove wall features 3 chain anchors, but only the middle route (Jacobs Ladder, the longest route at about 60 feet, is bolted. The other two climbs can be easily set up as top-ropes by lowering off Jacobs Ladder s chains and swinging either right or left.
(Outside the alcove to the right is "Camper's Delight")
Print out the Beta Photo.
The climbs, from left to right:
1) Di-vine Inspiration (5.10d)
A very challenging finger crack system with a stiff 10 start that mildly eases up as it heads up to the anchors.
2) Di-vine Connection (5.10)
A couple variations at the start. Fun positive holds start you out and run into thin face crimpers eventually leading onto the last half of Divine Inspiration.
3) Jacobs Ladder (5.7)
a fun and varied sport climb with 7 bolts. 2 possible variations. Chain anchor.
4) Gizunghas (5.8)
Thought provoking face climb that shares an anchor with Jacobs Ladder.
5) Midnight Oil (5.8)
can be climbed either in the diagonal corner or on the face to the left of that. (We found it a fantastic night climb, and thus the name!) 2 variations. No bolts, chain anchor.
6) Campers Delight (5.3)
an unprotected (as of June 2007), long route up an easy slope to anchors on the outside to the right of the alcove. Great for first-timers and children.
5 OR MORE POSSIBLE ROUTES TO THE SAME T.R. ANCHOR!
Update: there are now 2 bolts in the first third of the climb, then youll find a horn to sling and a crack system to place pro.
Getting ThereDirections to Cochise Stronghold East and the Vineyard Cove:
Coming from Tucson, Take Interstate 10 going East.
Take exit 331 (Dragoon), turn right and drive 3 miles to Dragoon.
Watch out as the road curves and crosses train tracks right in the tiny village of Dragoon.
Continue for another 7 miles or so, turn right onto Cochise Stronghold Road.
Drive south on Cochise Stronghold Road until the pavement ends. Turn right onto Ironwood Road.
Continue on the gravel road until you cross a cattle-guard and see a wooden National Forest Service sign. Continue straight and take the second right turn which has a small brown sign 84b.
Its basically the second right after the wooden NF sign on the main road into the Stronghold. If you take the first right just follow that dirt road around until it almost reaches the main gravel road again.
Find a fence with an open gate and park here. A level trail (1 minute approach) will take you to Vineyard's alcove.(By the way: great, free camping right there by the fence.)
Classic Climbing Routes at Vineyard Cove
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season