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Routes in Vineyard Cove

Camper's Delight T,S,TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Di-vine Connection TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Di-vine Inspiration S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Gizunghas S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jacob's Ladder S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Midnight Oil TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 45 ft
FA: Daryl Allan
Page Views: 709 total, 6/month
Shared By: Daryl Allan on Sep 7, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

This is the far left finger crack system that starts just above the base and is left leaning. A very short yet challenging, laid back shallow finger crack that eases up as it goes on. First move up the finger crack is the most difficult with each subsequent move eventually easing up to a 5.7+ by the anchors. The increasing holds size and reducing overhang are a welcome relief after the first couple crack moves.

::UPDATE::
Rating moved to 5.10d to reflect challenging nature of initial sequence up the finger crack.

Location

Left side of Vineyard Cove wall

Protection

5 bolts to anchor.

Note that hangers are camo'd extremely well but they are there; it may take a minute or two to spot them all from the ground.

Photos

Justin Headley   Tucson
May be obvious, but a small cam (red C3, blue Metolius) between the first and 2nd bolt removes the PG-13 part. Maybe I was just tired from 2 days of multi pitching but it seemed pretty hard for a 10d. Oct 9, 2016
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
 
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
 
I've been trying to figure out how to remove that Alpine remark... there's a couple that show up with that attribute for some reason. Anyone know how to remove it? Feb 3, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10b/c PG13
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10b/c PG13
If you've got lady fingers you'll find this route enjoyable. The crack is has perfect 3/4" locks which is just my size. My partner however, has sausage fingers and had to milk the opening moves and didn't appreciate the next set much either.

Me, I liked it so much I led it twice. Now the crux (for me) was actually where the crack was almost gone yet the wall was at it's steepest.

~Susan

p.s. Hey Daryl, what makes this (and the others on this wall) Alpine? Just wondering Feb 2, 2009