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Routes in Horror Movie Wall

Demonic Hordes and the Evil Eye of Orms-by-Gore S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Dracula's Silent Steps Approacheth TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Freddie vs. Jason S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Goblin Mutant S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Lord of the Pit S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Texas Chainsaw Massacre S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Trollkind S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Description

Mildly overhanging wall with great shady routes ranging 5.9 to 5.12a/b. As Dave Phillips puts it, "this wall is full of classics."

Some of these routes (ranging 5.10c to 5.12a/b) are on TR because the opposite cliff is too close to lead. They have directionals to unclip on the way up and reclip upon lowering. It's fun to project these excellent TR-only routes--no pressure to redpoint!

A couple of routes at 10a (Freddie vs. Jason) and 10b (Demonic Hordes and the Evil Eye of Orms by Gore) are short because they start on boulders. Don't skip them; they're sweet, and the 10a is tricky and usually takes alot of time to figure out.

The wall has a progression of popular 11's: Goblin Mutant(5.11a), Texas Chainsaw Massacre (5.11b), Shower Scene from Psycho (TR 5.11c), Eyepluck Scene from The Birds (TR 5.11d).
See MonsterRock.info for latest access info Details

Getting There

Cross the bridge over the canyon, turn left and walk along the top of the rock island. Descend the fixed metal ladders to the landing at Tolkein Wall. Scramble into the canyon; Horror Movie Wall is the cliff on your left.

7 Total Climbs

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