Tunnel Springs Rock Climbing
Routes in Tunnel Springs
|Black Diamond T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Crinoid Process T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Crumbcake T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Lazy Daze T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Left then Right T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Lost and Found T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c|
|Redtail T,S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Shark Crack T,TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Skyrat T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Spirit Bear T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Terra Nova T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Tunnel Cake T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b|
|Tunnel Vision S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|GPS:||35.294, -106.431 Google Map · Climbing Map|
|Page Views:||10,947 total, 93/month|
|Shared By:||Steve Hattenbach on Apr 20, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionThis area features 35-45' tall climbs on moderate quality limestone. All routes have bolted anchors, but all require gear placement unless otherwise noted. The routes are generally sustained and the rock is sharp.
The best season for this northwest facing cliff is summer mornings(shade until ~2:00 p.m.) or spring/fall afternoons (late afternoon sun). This area provides a convenient opportunity for a half day of climbing in close proximity to Albuquerque with the opportunity for gear leads.
The view from the crag is beautiful. You will generally see few people, mostly a few local residents walking their dogs.
The minimum equipment for this area is a 90' gym rope, 8-10 draws, and a half rack (single set cams and nuts). Gear is generally medium to small, and sometimes tricky.
This crag is in the wilderness boundary. All bolts were hand drilled. Please observe a wilderness ethic if establishing new routes.
There is limited opportunity to safely set top ropes (the top is loaded with rocks on a steep slope and many trees have died due to bark beetle). Unless noted in the route description as safe to set a top rope - leading is recommended.
Getting ThereTake the exit from I-25 and head east to Placitas. 4.8 miles from the Interstate you will see Tunnel Springs road on the right (look for the cluster of mailboxes). Turn south on Tunnel Springs road (FR 231) and drive through the development to the trailhead. (This takes ~twenty minutes from north Albuquerque.)
The approach to the cliffs is a pleasant ten minute hike along the North Crest Trail which heads east from the main parking lot. You will not see the cliff until after you round the first ridge on the trail. At about ten minutes into your hike the cliff band will come closest to the trail. Look for a cairn marking the climbers trail up to the eastern end of the wall. Hike uphill 100 yards to the routes.
Classic Climbing Routes at Tunnel Springs
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season