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Tunnel Springs

New Mexico > Albuquerque Area

Description

This area features 35-45' tall climbs on moderate quality limestone. All routes have bolted anchors, but all require gear placement unless otherwise noted. The routes are generally sustained and the rock is sharp.

The best season for this northwest facing cliff is summer mornings(shade until ~2:00 p.m.) or spring/fall afternoons (late afternoon sun). This area provides a convenient opportunity for a half day of climbing in close proximity to Albuquerque with the opportunity for gear leads.

The view from the crag is beautiful. You will generally see few people, mostly a few local residents walking their dogs.

The minimum equipment for this area is a 90' gym rope, 8-10 draws, and a half rack (single set cams and nuts). Gear is generally medium to small, and sometimes tricky.

This crag is in the wilderness boundary. All bolts were hand drilled. Please observe a wilderness ethic if establishing new routes.

There is limited opportunity to safely set top ropes (the top is loaded with rocks on a steep slope and many trees have died due to bark beetle). Unless noted in the route description as safe to set a top rope - leading is recommended.

Getting There

Take the exit from I-25 and head east to Placitas. 4.8 miles from the Interstate you will see Tunnel Springs road on the right (look for the cluster of mailboxes). Turn south on Tunnel Springs road (FR 231) and drive through the development to the trailhead. (This takes ~twenty minutes from north Albuquerque.)

The approach to the cliffs is a pleasant ten minute hike along the North Crest Trail which heads east from the main parking lot. You will not see the cliff until after you round the first ridge on the trail. At about ten minutes into your hike the cliff band will come closest to the trail. Look for a cairn marking the climbers trail up to the eastern end of the wall. Hike uphill 100 yards to the routes.

Routes from Left to Right

5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 18
Shark Crack
Trad, TR
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 14
Black Diamond
Trad, TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 18
Skyrat
Trad
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
Redtail
Trad, Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 9
Lost and Found
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 5
Left then Right
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 14
Crumbcake
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 8
Terra Nova
Trad
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 17
Lazy Daze
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 17
Tunnel Vision
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 14
Crinoid Process
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 1
Unknown
TR
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 16
Tunnel Cake
Trad
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 4
Spirit Bear
Trad
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Shark Crack
 18
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Black Diamond
 14
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, TR
Skyrat
 18
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Redtail
 6
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad, Sport
Lost and Found
 9
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Trad
Left then Right
 5
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Crumbcake
 14
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Terra Nova
 8
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lazy Daze
 17
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad
Tunnel Vision
 17
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Crinoid Process
 14
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Unknown
 1
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a TR
Tunnel Cake
 16
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Trad
Spirit Bear
 4
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the trail
[Hide Photo] View from the trail
Tunnel Springs belay
[Hide Photo] Tunnel Springs belay
Tunnel Springs Crag from the eastern part of the North Crest Trail.
[Hide Photo] Tunnel Springs Crag from the eastern part of the North Crest Trail.
Me on terrnova 5.9
[Hide Photo] Me on terrnova 5.9
Tunnel Springs looking west with Cabezon hidden by smoke.
[Hide Photo] Tunnel Springs looking west with Cabezon hidden by smoke.
Tunnel Springs looking south
[Hide Photo] Tunnel Springs looking south
Tunnel Springs Crag, left side--photo by Vaino Kodas
[Hide Photo] Tunnel Springs Crag, left side--photo by Vaino Kodas
Tunnel Springs Crag--photo by Vaino Kodas
[Hide Photo] Tunnel Springs Crag--photo by Vaino Kodas
Cliff band at Tunnel Springs
[Hide Photo] Cliff band at Tunnel Springs

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

ozman
CO / NM
[Hide Comment] You cannot see the wall from the parking lot. The trail leads E then NE around a hill and only then will the wall come into view. There is a small cairn on the right side of the main trail marking a climbers trail that switchbacks up the hill to the base of the wall. Use this trail to limit the amount of erosion and vegitation stompage. Mar 14, 2011
Jonathan Lam
Chinle, AZ
[Hide Comment] All 3 of us in our party got horrible lost. Do NOT use the directions pin to get here (maps will take you to the end of the closest random road). Drive to the "Tunnel Springs Trailhead" pin.

7HR6+H6 Albuquerque, New Mexico
goo.gl/maps/kNuSmLSPqdU3xN2PA Feb 13, 2021
Seth Thomas
Aurora, CO
[Hide Comment] Additional approach beta:
1) It's possible to make it to the trailhead with a 2WD, but the road has some decent potholes, heads up.
2) The trail splits pretty soon after the parking lot, stay left.
3) The north crest trail is super chill, the climbers trail is much more loose/there are occasionally sub optimal belay stances so definitely bring hiking shoes for the approach Jun 25, 2023