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Areas in New Canyon

Bulge Wall 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Damage Wall 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Flowing Cave Area 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Lil girly climb 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Lunch-Time Wall 0 / 3 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Mighty Wall 0 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Power Wall 0 / 5 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 5
Radical Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Roof Wall 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Elevation: 7,217 ft
GPS: 34.681, -106.361 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on May 30, 2007
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski
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Description

New Canyon is a small little known limestone climbing area tucked away near the town of Manzano. Generally the climbs are vertical to slighty less than vertical and are short 40 to 50 feet high. Generally the routes climb incut crimps and pockets. Climbable year round, but sweltering hot during the summer and cold on anything but the warmest winter days.

There are about 35 bolted routes with another 20 trad or top-rope routes.

Beware of missing bolts and anchors, and loose rock. More climber traffic would help clean these routes up.

Walls from the entrance are:
Mighty Wall
Power Wall
Roof Wall
Damage Wall
Bulge Wall
Radical Wall
Flowing Cave Area
Lunch-Time Wall

Getting There

Updated directions from Karl Kiser

The road to the crag is open. Turn west at the church in Manzano and stay right on this paved road. Be sure to stay right at the yellow house and continue on the maintained dirt road. The USFS sign is two plus miles beyond the yellow house. The cliffs are indeed 50 yards up and right of the sign.

If you can't find Manzano it is easy to Google directions to it.

Additional directions from Garçon Rouge
There are very obvious signs in Manzano for New Canyon. Turn right by the church (where the sign says to go), then follow the well kept dirt road a few miles (3 or so) and park literally right next to the Cibola National Forest sign in a little pull out on the right. The Mighty Wall is pretty much directly over the pull out on the right side of the creek bed and you can just follow the wall all the way down.

Resources

See "New Canyon Rock Climbing" Dennis Zallen 2004
This guide can be found at REI or Stone Age.

Also mentioned in the now out of print "Sport Climbing in New Mexico South" Matt Samet

25 Total Climbs

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To add to the directions mentioned above, there are very obvious signs in Manzano for New Canyon. Turn right by the church (where the sign says to go), then follow the well kept dirt road a few miles (3 or so) and park literally right next to the Cibola National Forest sign in a little pull out on the right. The Mighty Wall is pretty much directly over the pull out on the right side of the creek bed and you can just follow the wall all the way down.

May 28, 2017
Nicky A
Albuquerque, NM
Nicky A   Albuquerque, NM
We went to this place for the first time yesterday...its a cool spot! Noticed the route guide must be outdated, with more climbs there than were listed. Anyone any updates? We are eager to go back, especially if we can get more info on grades for the additional climbs. Aug 3, 2015
Route quality is hit or miss here. Sometimes I wonder what the person who bolted this place was thinking. Oddly placed bolts, and routes that could have gone further abound. Watch out for routes without anchors - what a PITA!

Wall names/descriptions, route descriptions and locations are all screwed up. The only ones that make sense are the ones with photos.

Some great routes, some not so great. Aug 20, 2014
CowboyCerrone
Edgewood, NM
CowboyCerrone   Edgewood, NM
The directions in the comment area where 100% on! Had a great day climbing, lots or beginner climbs.. Lots of fun will return soon Apr 7, 2013
The road to the crag is open. Turn west at the church in Manzano and stay right on this paved road. Be sure to stay right at the yellow house and continue on the maintained dirt road. The USFS sign is two plus miles beyond the yellow house. The cliffs are indeed 50 yards up and right of the sign.

Most of the climbs are about 30 feet and have four protection bolts. The technical movement is good but the limestone is frequently sharp. The cliff offers an alternative to Socorro in the shoulder months. Oct 22, 2012
djkyote  
most of the hangers were returned by the party in question while free-soloing - not using a rope makes a person a not a true climber? this situation happened many years ago. Mar 25, 2009
Chris Dietz
Clovis, NM
Chris Dietz   Clovis, NM
I would love to help fix it up, my Mother in-law lives just 25 mins away from New Canyon. I checked it out on 27 May and was glad to see the fire did not reach the crag. (It did come very close) . Not only do I think this a nice little crag to train my daughter but it would give me a reason to get out of the house, LOL. Anyone willing to help please let me know. I will need to know what size/type hangers to get. plus name of the P.O.S. would took them so I can charge him. Please do tell the name he should be "black balled". I can't believe a true climber would ever do such a thing.
Chris May 29, 2008
Anthony Stout
Albuquerque, NM
Anthony Stout   Albuquerque, NM  
And......? What did this person say during that interview? Apr 8, 2008
I put up a half dozen routes here in about 1990, with Matt Samet and others. Many hangers were subsequently stolen by a well-known ABQ climber.....totally sad. I even did an interview with him about why he took them. Apr 7, 2008

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