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Routes in Overlook Cliff

"A View to a Kill" AKA (One in the Pink) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
"Jay's Route" S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
"Overhauled" S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
99 Problems S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Abre Los Ojos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Adventures in Chossland S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
After School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Analog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown 11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bits Harder S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blond Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chia Pet S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
El Burro S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Eye for an "I" S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Groper, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Happy Finish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jay's Newer Route S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Jay's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh Boy, Oh Boy! S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Out of Pocket S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Out of Sight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Over-the-Monsoon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overlooked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Redrum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Hand Man S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
School's Out! S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Siren, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wiggle Her Pudge Until She Purrs S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
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Description

This is a nice crag with pretty vistas. The routes are mostly sport climbs in the 5.11 range. An approach is necessary.

Getting There

The Overlook cliff is directly above the Ouray Ice Park. Drive south out of Ouray on US Highway 550. After the first switchback, take a right towards Yankee Boy Basin and Camp Bird Mine. Drive 0.4 miles and park on your right. There should be a Sutton Mine Trailhead sign on your left. Follow the Sutton Mine Trail for 0.5 miles to the Ouray Overlook. Don't make the mistake of bee lining straight to the cliff once you see it from the trail. It is very steep and you'll have to hike around several smaller cliff bands. From the Ouray Overlook, go right along a faint trail following the ridgeline to the base of the cliff. To access routes, approach the ledge from the left side.

Per doligo: the following directions by chosspector cross private property and consequently risk trespassing charges:

Per chosspector: alternatively, drive past the Sutton Mine trailhead, pass the watertower on the left, go around one more curve, and park on the left at a pullout next to a road with a chain across it. There is a large grey boulder and a rock pile at the parking area. Start walking up the dirt road, step over the chain, and immediately hang a left on an obscure singletrack trail that heads up the rock outcropping. This leads to an old road that dead-ends at a singletrack trail and eventually the crag. 10 minutes.

Fixed Hardware

Please do not remove fixed hardware from the anchors - the fixed biners and Mussey hooks are there for your convenience and SAFETY!

31 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Overlook Cliff

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 15
Jay's Route
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 12
"Jay's Route"
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 11
Chia Pet
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 6
"Overhauled"
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 5
After School
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 3
Abre Los Ojos
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 13
Overlooked
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 6
Jay's Newer Route
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 21
Out of Pocket
Sport
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
 5
Wiggle Her Pudge Until She Purrs
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 8
"A View to a Kill" AKA (One in the…
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
School's Out!
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 9
99 Problems
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 6
Oh Boy, Oh Boy!
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 5
Out of Sight
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Jay's Route
 15
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
"Jay's Route"
 12
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Chia Pet
 11
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
"Overhauled"
 6
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
After School
 5
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Abre Los Ojos
 3
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Overlooked
 13
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Jay's Newer Route
 6
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
Out of Pocket
 21
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
Wiggle Her Pudge Until She…
 5
5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a Sport
"A View to a Kill" AKA (…
 8
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
School's Out!
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
99 Problems
 9
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
Oh Boy, Oh Boy!
 6
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Out of Sight
 5
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Overlook Cliff »

Sun & Shade

Weather Averages

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Prime Climbing Season
J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Bring a helmet for the belayer. I've pulled a few holds off. These walls will clean up with a bit more traffic. May 28, 2012
Will someone who knows the wall well post a description and location to the amazing looking .12a and .12c that the young women is climbing in the attached pictures? They look great! Are there any other .12s/.13s at this wall?

Thanks! Jun 3, 2012
Jay 1975
Bonedale,CO
Jay 1975   Bonedale,CO
Sun/shade aspects? Jul 24, 2016
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
Folks are awfully stingy with the stars around here! This is an outstanding crag with excellent rock--very uncharacteristic of the Ouray area. IMO, some of the best pocketed limestone in Colorado.

It looked to me like the entire cliff is shady by about noon. There are two sections that face a bit more north and are shady by about 11am. Also, it seemed to me that only out-of-town suckers like myself were gullible enough to approach via the Ouray Overlook--all the locals were following the chosspector route. Jul 26, 2016

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