Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hughes & Dolgio Nergui
Page Views: 477 total · 9/month
Shared By: Highlander on Jul 23, 2014
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route begins with some fun pocket & edge climbing up to a cool stemming dihedral, then face climb up to the upper corner. Positive laybacking up the corner leads to an airy leftward traverse to the anchors. There are some large blocks and flakes in the corner, they appear solid, but avoid pulling on or stepping on them.

There is an alternate finish that avoids the upper corner by going out left on good face holds up to a bouldery set of crux moves below the anchor on slopers, pinches, and tiny crimps. This left variation is 5.12 and is also quality.

Location

It is located on the wall with Happy Finish, Holey Moley, & Overlooked. After School is the leftmost route immediately left of Happy Finish. Look for a short, fun looking, stemming dihedral at mid-height and grey bolt hangers. There is a plaque at the base.

Protection

13 bolts to a 2 bolt sport anchor. Take 2 or 3 longer draws or back clean a couple up high to reduce rope drag.

Photos

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doligo
 
doligo  
 
This is a great warmup for the far left side - straightforward climbing, clean rock, and well-protected. Harder if you are short. Jul 24, 2014