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Routes in Overlook Cliff

"A View to a Kill" AKA (One in the Pink) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
"Jay's Route" S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
"Overhauled" S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
99 Problems S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Abre Los Ojos S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Adventures in Chossland S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
After School S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Analog S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Another Unknown 11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Bits Harder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Streak S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blond Corner S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Chia Pet S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
El Burro S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Groper, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Happy Finish S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jay's Newer Route S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jay's Route S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Oh Boy, Oh Boy! S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Out of Pocket S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Out of Sight S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Over-the-Monsoon S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Overlooked S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Redrum S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Right Hand Man S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
School's Out! S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Siren, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown 11b S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Wiggle Her Pudge Until She Purrs S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Dan Hughes & Dolgio Nergui
Page Views: 408 total, 10/month
Shared By: Highlander on Jul 23, 2014
Admins: Edward Medina, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

This route begins with some fun pocket & edge climbing up to a cool stemming dihedral, then face climb up to the upper corner. Positive laybacking up the corner leads to an airy leftward traverse to the anchors. There are some large blocks and flakes in the corner, they appear solid, but avoid pulling on or stepping on them.

There is an alternate finish that avoids the upper corner by going out left on good face holds up to a bouldery set of crux moves below the anchor on slopers, pinches, and tiny crimps. This left variation is 5.12 and is also quality.

Location

It is located on the wall with Happy Finish, Holey Moley, & Overlooked. After School is the leftmost route immediately left of Happy Finish. Look for a short, fun looking, stemming dihedral at mid-height and grey bolt hangers. There is a plaque at the base.

Protection

13 bolts to a 2 bolt sport anchor. Take 2 or 3 longer draws or back clean a couple up high to reduce rope drag.

Photos

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doligo
 
doligo  
 
This is a great warmup for the far left side - straightforward climbing, clean rock, and well-protected. Harder if you are short. Jul 24, 2014