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Routes in Waterfall Wall

Barite TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Beginner's Route TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Big Horn TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Black Hole TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Chimney, The TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crazy Sally TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Diamond Clutch TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Highway 60 S,TR 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Little Red Wall TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Nasty Sally TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nerd Magnet TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Description

Sunny most of the day. Often has local climbers. This is a good beginning wall directly near the parking area. The rock is rhyolite, and is strong but occasionally sharp. It gets very hot in the sun since it is dark red to black.

Getting There

Once you park at Box Canyon, face east and you're looking right at it. It's named after the small waterfall on the right side of the wall (which is not flowing, just stained black from water that has run down it in the past).

11 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Waterfall Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 15
The Chimney
TR
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Diamond Clutch
TR
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
 9
Barite
TR
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 8
Nasty Sally
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
The Chimney
 15
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b TR
Diamond Clutch
 9
5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Barite
 9
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b TR
Nasty Sally
 8
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a TR
More Classic Climbs in Waterfall Wall »

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Nick Manke
Edgewood, NM
Nick Manke   Edgewood, NM
This is a good area for beginners. Route difficulty varies from about 5.5 to 5.11-5.12. Walk up around the top to set up the top rope. Be sure to bring runners to extend it over the edge. Nov 3, 2008
C Brann  
Fun climbs; lots of variation in skill; best part is the distance from car, being 100yds. All top rope on waterfall. Only complaint is giant annoying flies when more than 10 feet from wall. Apr 17, 2014
Andrew B. Ellis
Ruidoso, NM
Andrew B. Ellis   Ruidoso, NM
Does anyone know why these routes are no longer bolted for lead climbing? Is it an ethics issue, or did the hardware get old and just wasn't replaced?

Thanks! Jul 4, 2017
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
Andrew B. Ellis wrote:Does anyone know why these routes are no longer bolted for lead climbing? Is it an ethics issue, or did the hardware get old and just wasn't replaced?
In the guidebook, which you should buy, it says the FA that bolted the climbs initially removed the hardware so he could use it at Enchanted Tower. This was in the 80s. Jul 6, 2017

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