Stony Clove - East Side Climbing
|Shared By:||Taino Grosjean on Feb 5, 2007|
DescriptionThe East side contains the most popular area for beginner and intermediate climbers in Stony Clove -the Playground/Twin Columns/Sun Wall - with routes ranging from barely WI2 (perfect for a beginner to gain confidence with their swing and foot placements) to WI4-ish (on the left Column, simply for the length of the route). There is no need to lead, here - you can scramble around without axes to set up top rope anchors off nearby trees.
The location is a favorite among guide services, so try to get a good look before you walk up to see how crowded that area is.
There are more flows along the East side of the Clove; with a bit of a walk along the railroad grade, they're readily accessible.
Getting ThereThe Playground, Twin Columns, and the Sun Wall are the easiest areas to reach in Stony Clove. You can just see the Playground through the trees from the parking lot. From the parking lot, cross the road and walk up the steps (next to the wooden sign) and angle left towards an old railroad grade. Follow the level ground for about 200 feet, until the steep slope on your right just touches it. Make a right, and take the path of least resistance straight up. You'll see the Playground ahead as you approach, with Twin Columns and Sun Wall just to your right. Be aware that, if there are other people climbing as you approach, there will likely be ice coming down the slide path towards you; wearing your helmet on the approach is not a bad idea.
To set up TR anchors without leading, you can 1) scramble up the very left of the Playground (WI1+), or walk around to the right about 100 feet past Sun Wall and find a very easy scramble, not requiring axes most times. To my knowledge, you can TR everything here with a 60m rope; be sure to have enough static line/webbing to extend your anchors to the edge.
The Playground can hold 3-4 ropes on its own; the Twin Columns, well, one each, but there are several lines from which to choose. Sun Wall can hold perhaps 2, if the ice is well in. There are also many other, smaller, flows continuing to the right of Sun Wall that aren't mentioned here or in the guide book, ranging from fat and easy to thin and scary.
Classic Climbing Routes at Stony Clove - East Side
Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
Days w Precip
Prime Climbing Season