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Routes in World Cup Wall

Black Betty (wham-a-lam) T WI4- M6 R
Edge of the World (right) T WI3 M4 PG13
Ice Slab ?? WI3
New World Order T WI5- M5 PG13
Roof of the World T WI4 M7
World According to Bush T WI3 M3 PG13
World Conflict T WI3+ M5 PG13
World Cup T WI5 M6
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Elevation: 9,000 ft
GPS: 40.292, -105.657 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 5,395 total · 38/month
Shared By: Greg Sievers on Jan 21, 2007
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
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Description

Somehow this gem has gone untrodden until now. This fine wall is 500' long and 100' tall and lies in an area named "Glacier Knobs" on the National Geographic - Trails Illustrated map. You can see the top 40' of it when viewed from the Fire Trail. When standing on the flat open rock platform about mid way up this trail, look to the left of Chaos Canyon ravine. The area is capped by a very round dome top. To date (1/15/07) there are 8 routes on the wall with many options for more.

The only way to TR this wall by walking to the top would involve a long march around the knob. Naturally, its just best to lead any route first, as it should be.

Approach time is about one hour, unless you get lost or bogged down in deep snow.

Due to the rounded nature of this hill, snow slough is pretty bad after a storm. no major avalanche danger, just lots of spind drift.

Getting There

Get yourself to Glacier Gorge Junction trail intersection area. Look west toward the Loch trail, BUT turn right and take the Lake Haiyaha Trail for 100' (N) and then turn hard left. Ascend very steep snow ramps and a gully, up and along the left side of a tiered wall.

This wall may be best in November-December. With all this snow, much of the bottom moves are now missing (Jan 6, 2007).

8 Total Climbs

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Greg Sievers
Bozeman, MT
Greg Sievers   Bozeman, MT
It's my guess that this wall will form up every year. However, it does appear its best season may well be November and December. As of early January 2007, many of the initial moves are missing. Edward was able to boulder up and stick the ice on 'Roof of the World' because the snow is so high now. Jan 22, 2007
This crag is a bit tiny and underwhelming to say the least...good for a visit if you've been everywhere else. Short, blocky routes with big ledges and not much exposure. Jan 29, 2007
Rick Casey
Fort Collins, CO
Rick Casey   Fort Collins, CO
I could find some agreement with Randy Slavin's asssessment; the routes are short, not dramatic. But I disagree with the assertion in the description that they cannot be TR'ed. They certainly can be, if someone leads up at least one route (I think the author meant there's no way to walk down from, or up to, the top.) There are 11 mm red rope slings at the locations shown in the photo (thanks first ascendtionists!), and many can be TR'ed with a single 70m, certainly with two. We had fun TR'ing the thin ice in 'World According To Bush' gully yesterday.

I'd add that the ice is not too thick here, so the climbing condition of these walls will be highly variable.

Finally, I agree with the general directions to get there, but the optimum trail has yet to be tracked in. We wandered around on the way up, going far too right, then took a much more direct route down, which I'd describe as mildly heinous, even on MSR snowshoes! Jan 29, 2007
Leo Paik
Westminster, Colorado
Leo Paik   Westminster, Colorado  
No ice. Snowshoes probably useful if you check this crag without others' tracks. Jan 5, 2008

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