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Routes in Point Dume

Arete TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Easy Boulder V-easy 3
Left TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Center TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Left Flake TR 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Center TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face Left TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
South Face Right S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Elevation: 10 ft
GPS: 34.015, -118.821 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Matthew Fienup on Aug 17, 2006
Admins: jt512, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes
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Description

OVERVIEW
Excellent top rope protected climbing for beginners and intermediates in a truly stunning setting. Everyone's first day of climbing should be at a place like this.

The site boasts 2 different faces:
WEST-FACING WALL--5 low-angle climbs up sharp edges in the 5.6-5.9 range--in truth, there are an infinite number of variations to these 5 routes. This wall is perfect for developing footwork and crimp strength. All lead bolts on the west-facing wall are sketchy. Do not learn to lead at Point Dume!
SOUTH-FACING (seaside) WALL--2 steep, pumpy routes in the 5.10 range, with other variations possible.

Long anchor-cords are required to top rope most routes.

WEATHER/CLIMATE
Moderated by the presence of temperate ocean water, this site is a year-round cliff. On cool winter days, the rock can feel slick.

For a memorable day of whale-watching, be sure to climb at Point Dume from mid-December to March.
Please stay on main trail when setting top ropes Details

Getting There

From PCH, turn on Westward Beach Road and head East for approximately 1 mile. Pass through the State Park gate (pay the toll) and proceed to the far side of the parking area, closest to the wall. Access top rope anchors by climbing a circuitous path that begins to the north of the main wall.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Point Dume

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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hey guys! looking to climb with another buddy Sat. 11/18/17. We are coming from out of town and only bringing our harness and shoes, looking to meet up with someone who has rope and can show us whats up! I have outside climbing experience, my buddy only the gym. Can throw you some food, gas money and some laughs. PM me if your your down. Thanks! Nov 8, 2017
Left face wall was very wet in the AM on October 14, 2017 during this time. Saw many People slipping. Stay safe out there :) Oct 16, 2017
sheriw724
Los Angeles
sheriw724   Los Angeles
Left a quick draw on the wall of the arete climb on Friday, July 7. Camp Photon Wire. Please message me if you found it. Thanks. Jul 8, 2017
I found a daisy chain in the sand last Sunday (6/10/2017). Let me know the color and brand and if you're in LA we can meet up and I'll give it back. Those things aint cheap! Jun 15, 2017
Andrew Ingals
Lake Forest
Andrew Ingals   Lake Forest
This is a great biginner wall with a nice variety of hand/foot holds on a causal face. I have heard, though not personally seen, that nearby REIs use this area for their rock climbing classes. I have also heard that it gets wicked busy on the weekends. I went with a few buddies in the morning during the week and found we had it mostly to ourselves. Also, we went February 2016, and upon arrival noticed every TR anchor hair been cut, the remnants of which were nicely rusted over. A few of the routes (Center and Left of Center) were bolted for lead, though we didn't tempt it. We did, however, lead the Arete, which had newly placed bolts. Having read recent posts on here, it is nice to hear all TR anchors were reset. Given the exposure to so much salt, it may make more sense to bring enough webbing/cord/static line to create your own anchors. There are plenty of features at the top to do so. Mar 12, 2017
Great place, went last week while camping at Leo Carillo and again today. The new top rope anchors are great. I used two slings of 3 to 5 ft of webbing to set up an anchor. They have great placement and look really safe.

There was one last lead bolt on the sandy side, but while top roping today another climber asked if I could clip in for him so he could more safely start a lead climb of the wall. I wasn't so sure so I twisted the anchor a little and it came off in my hand. The next few bolts were better but still not advisable. I let the guy have the anchor to keep as a good safety reminder. The 5.6 arête can still be lead climbed, but better to consider it a free solo as I'm sure those anchors are about to come off too.

Not worth the risk to lead climb, I'm fine with hiking up to set up a safe top rope on the new bolts and enjoy the view. Aug 26, 2016
To answer Benjamin's question above. There are no lead bolts on Pt. Dume any more. Given the nature of the rock and the constant exposure to salt air it was never a great idea to begin with. If you want to lead climb sport bolted routes Malibu Creek is just a few miles away. Plus a million other spots in the SM mountains.

There are a few relic bolts on the face that are helpful for setting directionals but I wouldn't hang my life from them by expecting them to catch a lead fall. Aug 21, 2016
First, thank you to those responsible for rebolting the top anchors. Great work. I hadn't been back to Dume since that was done and it's night and day from the situation before where I remember slinging boulders and doing all sorts of innovative rigging to set up a top rope.

For those looking for info on what you need to set up here. As of YESTERDAY I saw 3 sets of double anchors spaced out along the ocean side "South Face" top of the cliff. They're high quality bolts with speed links and rap rings. But you will still require at least a few feet of high quality webbing, slings or static rope to put your top rope power point over the edge of the cliff. Don't count on using just a couple quickdraws like you might at many sport routes.

Even though the routes on that side are rated 5.10 I think they are also potentially some of the best beginner routes as the bottom 2/3 have tons of juggy holds. The 5.10 part comes in the top third.

The beach side slab also has 3 or 4 complete set of bolted triple anchors installed now. They're set well away from the edge of the cliff and to properly rig here requires about 20+ feet of webbing or static rope. I used a 30' length of 9mm static rope like a cordellette and it was about perfect. These anchors are straight above the routes titled "Left Center" to "Right Center." You also climb the arete off these anchors but there's some possible swing to the left if you fall. The directional bolt that used to be midway up the arete is gone.

About 15 feet below near the top of route titled "Left 5.8" there is a new-looking double anchor with rings. I used this as a directional off the top anchors using a quickdraw to put my rope directly over that route.

Even though the routes on the beach side are rated pretty moderate they initially look blank to a beginner. It's great because it forces beginners to start using crimps and good edging rather than just climbing a ladder.

Fun place to take a bunch of beginners or young kids like we did yesterday.

Thanks again to the rebolters and people who care for this area. It's not a place I frequent but every time I bring people here they are blown away by the setting. Aug 21, 2016
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Thanks for the update, David. That's really great. Titanium, Stainless, what's the grade of the new hardware??
Just the top rope anchors? How about the lead bolts? Jun 24, 2016
With the help of the Access fund, the American Safe Climbing Association, and LA area climbers, the project to reinstate Pt. Dume's top rope anchors received official permission and was completed in March 2016. Apr 30, 2016
There is a decent boulder up top that you can loop with Webbing or Cord. I Personally think it is a better idea to come with an additional Static Rope. Or at least a 50 Foot cord in order to rap down from the top of the cliff to the top bolt anchors which are spread out along the top of the climbing routes (West Wall) If you don't have a second full length rope you'll have to rap down to the anchor bolts then rap down your main climbing rope from there. Luckily there were rings setup at the top of the TR routes so you could recover your rope at the end of the day just like a sport route. You COULD just run a super long piece of webbing off of the boulder at the top. But there are usually going to be other people who want to climb. So doing that isn't super cool. Feb 16, 2016
Maidy  
See condition report at the top of the page. Jan 20, 2016
According to "Greg The Polish Guy", the bolts in this area were voluntarily chopped or hangers hammered flat a while back by the keepers of this area because they weren't being maintained and the conditions were dangerous.

As of November 2015, you had to sling a boulder at the top for a TR anchor, but people were still top roping there. I don't know if there are more recent access restrictions to the area. Can anyone advise? Jan 19, 2016
Mynor Sosa
Chatsworth, CA
Mynor Sosa   Chatsworth, CA
All bolts have been chopped and all splinter trails to the top have been blocked. Not sure what happened. I wasn't able to find a lifeguard or deputy to talk to. Jan 18, 2016
How far away from the edge are the TR anchor bolts? Dec 21, 2015
Hey was just climbing here with some very nice people, and one of them left their rainbow brand sandals at the base. If these are your sandals, pm me! Nov 25, 2015
Just went here on December 22, 2014. The description that says the West wall will feel wet on cold winter days is an understatement! The sun never got on the wall and it felt like climbing on oil. That said, it was still beautiful and fun overall. The routes seemed like they'd be great if they were dry. We just kept telling ourselves that the 5.7's were climbing more like 5.9's!

Oh, and the Polish guy was there. He seemed nice. Dec 24, 2014
krisdoesthis
Joshua Tree, CA
krisdoesthis   Joshua Tree, CA
The "very easy" boulder to the right of the slab wall has been swept away. Or fell over. No longer a cool little boulder there. Nov 7, 2014
Just spent entire day there, West facing Bolts are all there. Solid bolts, No south facing bolts, can use some of the bolts from west face for south face. Met Greg who's a great guy, and raps face first, superman style. All around Solid climbing here. Some of the anchors were smashed in, for example, the anchor for the classic 5.6 so there are 3 anchors for that climb instead of 4. Might of been replaced since one of the bolts did look newer. Aug 24, 2014
Kjmac
Ventura
Kjmac   Ventura
Hi Everyone
Just spent Monday Aug 4th 2014 at Pt Dume. I found out that the bolts that were in place at the top of the south (ocean) face have been removed. All four of the ones on that side are gone. There is a boulder at the top one could sling to with a 15 foot sling or cord. But that would only cover the western end of the ocean face. Sorry for the bad news. West face still has good bolts, the same
ones that have been there.
The Polish guy Greg was not there. Aug 5, 2014
JeffMK  
Climbed back at the Point for the first time in a long time. Here's a quick status update:

1. Greg, the Polish guy who raps all day long and talks even longer, is still there...

2. All oceanside bolts missing. Oceanside routes, at least the left and center ones, are using the "boulder" on the top, but this thing measures maybe 3x3x2 at best. One party slung the boulder twice as their only piece of pro.

3. Arete anchor is in good shape. Some of the lead bolts have new bolts placed about a foot away from the old ones. The rest are still spinning and rusted buttonheads.

4. Middle-face anchor also looked good.

5. Still a gorgeous place to climb but it seems to be fading away unless the anchors are allowed to be rebolted at the very least. May 18, 2014
Jason J  
If someone accidentally took home a pair of Five Ten Moccasyms, size 4 (if my friend remembers correctly), from this area on 4/20/14 please contact me.

Climbed here on 4/20/14 and noticed all the bolts for routes on the ocean side have been pulled. We made due by slinging the boulder and more distant bolts. Apr 21, 2014
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  

For those interested in the recent history of this site, a bolt replacement effort was undertaken in 2009 with generous support from the American Safe Climbing Association. The effort was interrupted (with lights flashing and sirens blaring) when two volunteers were detained by State Park law enforcement and cited for "Destroying a Geological Resource." The situation became very serious when the State Park's District Environmental Coordinator expressed the desire to close the area to climbing. A representative from the ASCA and two from the Access Fund consulted on the effort to keep the site open after the blow-up. One local climber in particular, named David, put in many hours to smooth things over with the Park. The officer who wrote the original citation also turned out to be a good advocate for climbers. The Park Service is watching the climbing community closely and has even visited this website to check on us. Please tread carefully at Point Dume and be good stewards--and know that it is against the law to remove, replace or add bolts. Feb 3, 2014
TacoDelRio
All up in yo bidniss.
TacoDelRio   All up in yo bidniss.
Yep, that's the Polish guy. Had a similar experience with him a few years ago, though he wasn't being physical. Aug 17, 2013
Rock Klimber
SoCal
Rock Klimber   SoCal
As has been mentioned in previous posts, there is a problem at Point Dume with people repelling recklessly and endangering other climbers around them. It goes beyond climbing etiquette. And apparently the problem goes beyond just rappeling too. Yesterday I experienced this first hand.

There was a guy there, who I'm told is a regular, who was doing very high speed face-down rappels (military-style "Australian rappel"). At times he would essentially free-fall the entire height of the rock, only braking in the last few feet. Cool to watch. Problem was, he was doing this in very close proximity to other climbers. The established routes at Pt Dume are already densely spaced, and this guy was setting up his rappels in between the established routes, dangerously encroaching on the routes and climbers already on them.

Late in the day he did this to us. I was about half way up a route, and this guy set up right on top of me, about 3 feet to the left. And down he came on a high-speed Ozzie rappel, whizzing past me within arm's length at a speed of about 50 ft per second. And at the bottom he braked just a few feet above my belayer's head, and again, within arm's reach of her to the left. Had he misjudged his free-fall by just a couple of feet, at least two of us would be going to the hospital. Very dangerous for all of us!

My belayer (a 5'2" female) asked him politely not to do that so close to us while we have a climber on the route. And the guy went ballistic! He started yelling at her, cursing at her, harassing and threatening her, going off on her on and on, all this while I'm still up on the route with her belaying me.

When I got down, the situation only worsened. The guy become physically belligerent, got in my face, literally nose-to-nose, threatening that he's going to "kick my ass", "f*** me up", etc. Not wanting to get into a violent altercation with this whack job, I went over to the life guard tower and had them call over the Sheriffs. They came and had a talk with him, but they ultimately did not arrest him. He denied threatening us, and so it was his word against ours. Thankfully, he did pack up and leave at that point.

This guy apparently is often there, doing his thing. Seeing him earlier in the day, it was clear that he likes an audience, and he was also eager to take people up and have them do Ozzie rappels (newbie climbers or even just random beach-goers -- sounds like a recipe for disaster in itself). And the guy was constantly talking about his military background and how much he despises the "f***ing civilians". That we're all soft because we "haven't been baptized by fire"... etc. etc. And when he didn't have a human audience paying attention to him, he would feed and talk to the squirrels... And of course all this was before he got physically belligerent with us.

So, beware. This guy is unstable and dangerous. Best to keep your distance from him as best you can, on and off the rock. He looks like he's in his 40's or 50's, gray hair, fit, and speaks with some kind of eastern European accent. Aug 11, 2013
Andres T
North Las Vegas, NV
Andres T   North Las Vegas, NV
watch out for repellers. Came from AZ to visit friends and was shown this area. Started to lead and was told not to, but got my beginner girlfriend on the wall and guys would just come running down on top of her. Not the climbing etiquette i expected. But fun rock, fun easy approach and sketchy bolts yes, just don't fall. Just be ready to argue for an anchor against people that are just repelling at the top. Nov 24, 2012
Jack Scully
Los Angeles CA
Jack Scully   Los Angeles CA
Pros:
1. Great scenery
2. If you get hot, jump in the Pacific
3. The rock is rough, but it's rock, and its in LA county...beggars can't be choosers.

Cons:
1. No disrespect to the Malibu climbers, but the crowd that was there that day was really unsafe. Maybe it's a west coast thing, but east coast climbers i.e. New and Red climbers - are very cautious climbers. I witnessed a lot of sketchy TR setups like 2 single Rap lines sharing one bolt - I know they're 3/8ths but I am of the mindset that you ALWAYS have a back up, no matter what.

2. Not that many climbs, it does get crowded, and people get protective of their climbs. People will post up on one climb and stay there.

3. Not a great place to sport, as I mentioned previously, some of the bolts are sketch. Some rusted, some loose, and some hammered flat. Just TR.

4. I saw some some solo climbing. Its one thing to watch Alex Honnold do it but guess what? You're not Alex Honnold...neither is your stupid friend. DON'T DO IT. It's unsafe and it is not smart.

Off topic but relevant - Point Dume hands down reminded me of why I moved to California. My girlfriend/climbing partner and I got there around 1pm. Crowded, but we expected that and being new to the area didn't see it as a bad thing. There we're two sport routes open on the ocean side so I went for the center most route. The climb was fun but I will admit I bailed before going to the last bolt because the one I was at looked a bit sketch - rusted and loose - BE ADVISED. Definitely not a climbing weenus here, just not an unnecessary risk taker. Came down, hiked around to the top and as I went to Rap down, two humpback whales came swimming up the coast line less than 20 feet offshore. SINGLE MOST AMAZING THING I HAVE EVER SEEN - RAPPELLING DOWN WHILE WATCHING TWO WHALES SWIM SIDE BY SIDE UP THE MALIBU COAST. WOW. May 21, 2012
Luis Orozco
Covina, CA
Luis Orozco   Covina, CA
new bolts on the middle route beach side with rap ring May 10, 2012
Sam Eaton
Malibu, Ca
Sam Eaton   Malibu, Ca
All lead bolts on the Pt. are rusted out and not to be used, by anyone.
ever. There are good anchor bolts on the summit for setting up top ropes. Sling the boulders for backup. Stay on the main trail when hiking up AND down from the top. That's the main trail. not the drainage. not the obvious use trails all over. environmental impact is the easiest way "they" could restrict access.

Point Dume is dangerous. Loose rock abounds.
I see climbers making so many mistakes, some days I just turn around and go home. The arete is not a good beginner's route. although easy for the grade, it has lots of friction moves and bad pendulum risk.
The lower half of the oceanside routes are death blocks waiting to fly. Be Aware.

With that said, Pt. Dume can be a great place to spend the day climbing. harder variations can be had on the ocean side along with some R/X rated bouldering for the hardman looking for a fix. Be cool, use your head, and minimize your presence whenever possible. Oct 24, 2011
Rob M
Shangri-LA
Rob M   Shangri-LA
I was there today. I saw one chopped anchor but it was an old one I think. At least one lower one one was hammered down. It needed to be. DO NOT lead on these unless you have a death wish. There is a rock you can sling on the right. This is a great place for scenery and to take inexperienced climbers, but limited obviously in numbers of routes and higher grade stuff. Head to Echo or Malibu Creek for that-not far from there. Take very long slings if you decide to go to Dume.. Jun 20, 2011
Parker Alec Cross
Provo, UT
Parker Alec Cross   Provo, UT
Saw two almost-deaths on Tuesday at this crag. Some of the most stupid behavior I've ever seen in the vertical sports.

Also, we climbed one day, two days later we went back to do it again, and one of the anchor bolts we'd used two days prior was completely gone. I wouldn't trust any of this protection with my life, se sure to sling a rock or two on the top and set up your TR in a responsible way. My prediction is this crag gets shut down to climbing within a few years because of stupid antics. Jun 17, 2011
If you don't want to shell out $10 for parking, park where all the surfers do, on Grasswood, a bit north of Dume, and walk down. I actually like to take the bus from LA, line 545(?) which drops you off right near the top of the point, or sometimes, at PCH/Heathercliff. Feb 28, 2011
Someone (very presumptuously) chopped all the lower bolts on the easy side recently. I once thought climbers were very reasonable and level-headed. Feb 28, 2011
Rob Gordon
Hollywood, CA
Rob Gordon   Hollywood, CA
Went climbing here today and was pretty shocked at the stupid behavior. People need to cut out the crap like hand over handing their top rope to get to the top to clean or climbing down to the pre-summit unprotected before tying in to rap. Both times I've been here I've seen stupid stuff by barely mediocre climbers trying to impress the newbies they are taking for rides. It's an accident waiting to happen or at least a really bad precedent to set for beginners. It's also pretty bad to see people hang-dogging the worthless bolts. Treat the lead routes as solos, and if you can't climb that grade at full confidence... don't. I don't want to see someone get hurt or this place shut down. Sorry to rant, but anyone going to Point Dume, remember it's a crag, not a beach party. Oct 10, 2009
liveit P
Mammoth Lakes, Ca
liveit P   Mammoth Lakes, Ca
I was thinking about heading to the rock, anyone have an update on whether or not the bolts have been chopped? Thanks Sep 1, 2009
Sam Eaton
Malibu, Ca
Sam Eaton   Malibu, Ca
Someone has been chopping bolts and anchors in the last couple of days.
Not really sure why anyone would want to smash and chop the eyebolt anchors at the top of two routes. I climbed up the left most route only to find that the once bomber three point anchor is now down to one eyebolt.

Matthew - care to elaborate about the E.C.'s desire to ban climbing here? Aug 17, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
It is currently against the law to remove, replace or add bolts to the wall at Point Dume. The State Park is actively enforcing this law. Violators can be charged with a misdemeanor (CCR 4307a) and have their gear confiscated.

The State Park's District Environmental Coordinator would like to see an explicit ban on climbing at this site, so all climbers should be advised.

In particular, please stay on developed trails when walking to the top of the cliff. Observe all posted signs. Aug 14, 2009
the drive on a holiday from downtown L.A. is particularly hateful. It took me three hours going on the 10 west and pch North. Maybe Kanan Dume Rd from 101 is better? Jul 4, 2009
Bill Olszewski
Colorado Springs, CO
Bill Olszewski   Colorado Springs, CO
I had a great time running up these routes. But it would have been a lot more fun had I been leading. I ran up to the first bolt on the 5.7, looked at it long and hard, and backed down. I'd love to see this wall rebolted but I can understand if it doesn't happen - probably wouldn't be long 'til they were badly rusted again. :0(

There's a nice new bolted anchor on the lower ledge that does not require long slings for top-roping. Mar 17, 2009
ryan mattock
calabasas Ca
ryan mattock   calabasas Ca
rebolting Dume will take some real hard work. it might help to consult the F.A party to help you get the real bolts replaced. Feb 15, 2009
Ken Trout
Golden, CO
Ken Trout   Golden, CO
Wow! A Point Dume fix-up is a dream come true. The only thing that could make this place better would be if Gigit came by and asked for a belay. Feb 12, 2009
That is Great news... Nov 14, 2008
Heads up Point Dume climbers, my buddy in Pasadena just got some fresh metal thanks to Greg at ASCA and we plan to replace the lead bolts this weekend. We’ll post pictures.

Update: Unfortunately the potluck approach to bringing the necessary gear didn’t quite work out, the individual responsible for bring the grinder was unable to show and as a result we could not remove the rusty bolts. The plan to replace said lead bolts will have to be re-scheduled. Point Dume area climbers will be kept in the loop. Nov 13, 2008
Why don't we get together and rebolt these routes. I will donate my time and some of the money for this operation... Who else is interested in doing this? Nov 11, 2008
Josh Hibbard
Los Angeles Area, CA
Josh Hibbard   Los Angeles Area, CA
If you are looking for a secluded day of climbing, don't go here. Having said that, it is worth a day of climbing if only to experience the view of the beach and the ocean spray hitting your face. The rock is very slippery early in the morning and on overcast days due to the coastal environment. Mar 23, 2007
M. Morley
Sacramento, CA
M. Morley   Sacramento, CA  
As far as climbing at Point Dume,

4 out of 5 stars for scenic value.
1 out of 5 stars for route quality.
0 out of 5 stars if you plan on leading anything. Dec 15, 2006
Matthew Fienup
Ventura, CA
Matthew Fienup   Ventura, CA  
I have recently overheard beginning lead climbers talk about going to Pt. Dume to practice lead climbing. Beginners and experts alike should be advised that the lead bolts on the main face are almost exclusively compression bolts. Compression bolts are considered sketchy (by the American Safe Climbing Association and others) when placed in Yosemite granite. Rusted compression bolts in a sea-side cliff are a death-wish.

Similar bolts have been pulled from nearby climbing sites with only slight pressure. Aug 17, 2006

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