Elevation: 4,000 ft
GPS: 37.375, -114.55 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 54,865 total · 318/month
Shared By: Francis Baker (fran) on Aug 14, 2006
Admins: Justin Johnsen

Description

An obvious wall of clean tuff lies 17 miles south of Caliente on SR 317. The cliffs are just off the road. The road is graded dirt and can get washed out. The climbing is both sport and trad. There are beautiful corners and clean, blank face climbs with bolts. The rock is similar to Smith Rock. This is a remote area with no facilities. Climbing can be had year round although winters can be cold and summer gets hot! Watch the weather as the road can get washed out anytime of year.

"About 65% of the routes were put by me (Michelle Locatelli) and Richard Harrison, 30% by Gary Fike, and the remaining 5% by others, including Bob Finlay and John Middendorf, two of the area 'pioneers.' Much assistance was given by Gary's wife Tanya and Richard's daughter Lisa. All the routes are named and each has a great story to go with its first ascent. We put much sweat and money into the project, hoping to create a peaceful area for locals. So we resisted putting out a guide book. The area was also a sensitive riparian corridor before the big flood and we thought it best to keep it low key. We have had problems with plagiarism (some just trying to make a buck), false info and taking of credit where it wasn't due by some visitors to the cliffs. So at long last we have decided to put together a correct guide for Rainbow. The area is very special; a great mixture of cracks and chimneys, superb technical face climbing and awesome aretes. Please enjoy the routes, keep the place clean and spend some money in nearby Caliente while you're there."

Getting There

Find your way to Caliente, Nevada and head south on SR 317 for 17 miles. There is also a dirt road heading NE off of 93 (Kane Springs Rd.) that will take you to Elgin and SR 317; from there a short drive N will get you to the cliff. I recommend at least a 4x2 with some ground clearance. The latter route is shorter but can take just as long and there are no services (bring a gas can). The GPS location is a guess based on the map.

"Kershaw-Ryan campground is a couple of minutes from the climbing crags in Caliente. It sees very little traffic. The elevation is 4395 feet which makes for tolerable summer temps, especially in the morning, and evenings. This campground/state park was opened to camping in March 2009. It has modern bathrooms (flush toilets), water, showers, a wading pool, kids play area, and a volleyball net. Not a bad place to stay if you're checking out the climbing in the area, or just passing through- especially good for kids/climbing families." - Dirty Gri Gri, or is it GiGi?

46 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Rainbow Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 8
Poke on Sunday
Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 3
Sloppy Seconds
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Grey Cat
Sport
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 11
Druce Crack
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 7
Disneyesque
Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 5
Lightning Strikin' Again
Trad
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
 7
Getting Hard
Sport
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 16
Finlay Crack
Trad
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 11
Sexual Basalt
Trad
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 6
A Quarter and a Half
Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 6
Caliente Crack
Trad 2 pitches
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 4
Flash for Cash
Sport
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
 3
Come and Get It
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 4
Air Farce One
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Poke on Sunday Sandy Cove Area
 8
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Sloppy Seconds Midway Area
 3
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Trad
Grey Cat Midway Area
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
Druce Crack Rainbow Canyon - misc
 11
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Disneyesque Sandy Cove Area
 7
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Lightning Strikin' Again Rd Area
 5
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad
Getting Hard Sandy Cove Area
 7
5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a Sport
Finlay Crack Midway Area
 16
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
Sexual Basalt Midway Area
 11
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad
A Quarter and a Half Rainbow Canyon - misc
 6
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad
Caliente Crack Rainbow Canyon - misc
 6
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad 2 pitches
Flash for Cash Midway Area
 4
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Come and Get It Midway Area
 3
5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
Air Farce One Rainbow Canyon - misc
 4
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
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