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The Penknife Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in The Penknife

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Southeast Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

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Elevation:	12,000 ft	3,658 m
GPS:	40.2844, -105.679 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	5,266 total · 23/month
Shared By:	lucabrasi on Jun 27, 2006
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Closures Details

Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31. Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."

For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures website.

General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted here.

Description

The Penknife is the long-forgotten and overlooked spire directly north of the Petit Grepon summit. Its summit is just as high (if not higher) and much less crowded than the Petit Grepon. Although short (1, 2, or 3 pitches), the actual climb is really the final phase of a very long and exciting expedition through Loch Vale (read "getting there").

CAUTION: there is a lot of very loose rock on the Penknife! Check every handhold and especially anchors!

Getting There

There is the "boring way", which consists of climbing the 8 pitches of the Petit Grepon south face, rappelling into the saddle of the two spires, and climbing the Penknife.

Then, there is the "epic route", which consists of hiking, glacier travel, Class 4 scrambling, rappelling, and climbing. I strongly suggest staying overnight at the Andrew's Creek campsite (back country permit required, and don't forget bug spray!). Hike up the Andrew's Creek trail to Andrew's Glacier. The glacier is very steep in parts, crampons are recommended but not necessary. After the glacier ends, you must scramble up a HUGE talusfield at the base of the Sharkstooth. Your objective is to reach the saddle between the Sharkstooth and the Saber, aka "The Gash". The talusfield gets cliffed out in spots, so be careful. At the top of the Gash, you can see over the horizon into the "Sky Pond cirque". The Penknife is directly in front of you. Scramble down southeast to a ridge between the Penknife and the Saber. From here, you will need to set a rappel down onto the grassy plateau on the east side of the Petit Grepon. Once on the grassy area, begin technical climbing.

Per Keith Parks: one does not climb Andrew's Glacier to access the Gash - instead one breaks left (south) from Andrew's Creek through a boulderfield, up talus, to the col between Sharkstooth and Saber (i.e. same approach as South Face of Sharktooth).