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The Penknife
Colorado
> Alpine Rock
> RMNP - Rock
Access Issue: Closures
Details
Seasonal closures Feb. 15-July 31.
Per the Denver Post:, the Cathedral Wall and all areas above the Loch Vale-Sky Pond Trail are closed to off-trail travel! Per this RMNP
website, "Initial closures now occur in Feb. 15 and April, when raptors return to the region and scout for nesting sites. Areas containing general habitat preferred by raptors are closed during this time. Once raptors have selected nesting spots, the initial closures are lifted or adjusted. The specific areas which raptors choose for nesting sites are closed."
For additional information about raptor closures, please visit the Rocky Mountain National Parks area closures
website.
General NPS climbing regulations for RMNP posted
here.
Description
The Penknife is the long-forgotten and overlooked spire directly north of the Petit Grepon summit. Its summit is just as high (if not higher) and much less crowded than the Grepon. Although short (2 or 3 pitches), the actual climb is really the final phase of a very long and exciting expedition through Loch Vale (read "getting there").
CAUTION: There is a lot of very loose rock on the Penknife! Check every handhold and especially anchors!
Getting There
There is the "boring way", which consists of climbing the 8 pitches of the Petit Grepon south face, rappelling into the saddle of the two spires, and climbing the Penknife.
Then, there is the "epic route", which consists of hiking, glacier travel, Class 4 scrambling, rappelling, and climbing. I strongly suggest staying overnight at the Andrew's Creek campsite (BC permit required and don't forget bug spray!). Hike up the Andrew's Creek trail to Andrews Glacier. The glacier is very steep in parts, crampons are recommended but not necessary. After the glacier ends, you must scramble up a HUGE talus field at the base of the Sharkstooth. Your objective is to reach the saddle between the Sharkstooth and the Saber, aka "The Gash". The talus field gets cliffed out in spots, so be careful. At the top of the Gash, you can see over the horizon into the "Sky Pond cirque". The Penknife is directly in front of you. Scramble down southeast to a ridge between the Penknife and the Saber. From here, you will need to set a rappel down onto the grassy plateau on the east side of the Petit Grepon. Once on the grassy area, begin technical climbing.
Routes from Left to Right
Route Name |
Location |
Star Rating |
Difficulty |
Date |
●
Southeast Face
|
|
1
|
|
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Trad, Alpine 2 pitches
|
[Hide Photo] The Penknife (left) from the top of the Gash.
[Hide Photo] The Penknife viewed from the ridge between the Penknife and the Petit Grepon
[Hide Photo] The Penknife (front) and the Petit Grepon (rear) viewed from the saddle between the Penknife and the Saber
Provo, UT
It is possible to rap East (towards Sabre) to a grassy ledge, then walk South (and down short exposed 4th Class step) to rejoin the bolted Petit raps. If doing so, be extra careful of the mounds of loose boulders on that side of Penknife. Sep 9, 2020
West of Boulder, CO