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Routes in Queen Victoria

Regular Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Route To Nowhere S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Description

Queen Vic is an attractive, pointy tower sitting on the ridgeline north of Schnebly Hill Road. This is a wonderful, mostly easy, outing that gets you to a nice summit overlooking Midgley Bridge, Oak Creek Canyon and Sedona.

Getting There

The approach is done from a parking spot on the left 1.9 miles up Schnebly Hill Road. There is a picnic table at the right spot.

Hike downhill past the picnic table to a good trail, take the trail left (west) and hike down to a big wash on the right. Hike and scramble up this wash (sometimes in and out of the wash, but basically in) directly up to the ridge above with Queen Victoria and Pointed Dome. Follow your nose up to the ridge and the east side of Queen Vic and access to the routes.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Queen Victoria

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
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fvclimb  
The directions above are horrible. But its very easy to get to park about a mile up the road from where the pavement ends. It will be right across the wash from a dry fall with a cave. Cross the wash and head uphill on the trail (munds wagon trail) for about a quarter mile. take a left onto the hangover trail (there is a trail sign at the trail intersection). Hike up the trail to the top of the slickrock and it will bring you to the base of queen victoria. Travese around to get to the base of the route. Oct 4, 2017
Gregory Cooper
San Diego
Gregory Cooper   San Diego
Thanks Paul. I'm a fast walker so it shouldn't a problem.

As a head up I'll be climbing the Regular Route tomorrow 5/4/15, me and a parter, and on 5/12/15 with a three person team of less experienced climbers (if tomorrow goes well and I feel it's appropriate.) Jun 3, 2015
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
Greg - A civic won't make it all the way to the best parking spot, but you'll be able to get close, I'd guess plan on adding 20-30 minutes to the approach. Jun 3, 2015
Gregory Cooper
San Diego
Gregory Cooper   San Diego
Does anyone know what the road condition are like. I only have a Honda Civic and was wondering if it would be suitable to get to the trail head for this climb? Jun 2, 2015
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
damn, that's a bummer. it looks pretty sweet Apr 27, 2015
Mike
Phoenix
Mike   Phoenix
Nick & Zach, I have done the Toula route. It is a little spicy and IMHO not very good. If I were ever to do it again it would probably be by top-rope. However that is unlikely because frankly that route kind of sucks. Apr 27, 2015
The SW crack line is a Tim Toula route. It's supposed to be a good 5.10. I haven't climbed it though. Given the FA team, it might be spicy! Have fun. Apr 24, 2015
Nick Dolhyj 1
Flagstaff, AZ
Nick Dolhyj 1   Flagstaff, AZ
every time i'm near queen vic I always see this splitter looking crack on the southwest side of the spire. anybody know if this is a route? I think I may try to get an FA of it this weekend if it hasn't already been climbed Apr 22, 2015
Lindsey Western
Flagstaff
Lindsey Western   Flagstaff
My buddy and I got our rope stuck on queen vic. Please either leave it there or let us know you have it. We're going to try to retrieve it asap. Thanks a bunch! -lindsey Feb 4, 2015
I'm pretty sure this is down a "4x4 Only" unpaved road, so if you took a tiny rental car you are probably going to have to walk. Oct 23, 2014
Ryan Z  
^ that is exactly what is supposed to happen when you get buzzed by choppers, thanks for sharing the video! Nov 17, 2013
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
Jeff good work, great music, and mooning the tourist helicopter is just fantastic.... Feb 4, 2013
Jeff Peabody
Missoula, MT
Jeff Peabody   Missoula, MT
Video I made from a nice evening with the Queen.

Queen Victoria Jul 31, 2012
Tyler Williams
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Williams   Flagstaff, AZ
A fun, easier, scenic, but longer approach is to approach as per epitaph - and hike to the saddle between flying buttress and moose's butte from east, then hike along a nice trail on the north side of moose's butte. It's probably a mile longer, but there's no scrambling up washes and the terrain is really awesome. Feb 13, 2011
Daryl Allan
Sierra Vista, AZ
Daryl Allan   Sierra Vista, AZ
Seems like the picnic table mentioned may be gone if the parking area described in here is the first one that is a turn-around (with an island) 1.9 miles from where the dirt road begins. That said, we parked at the pulloff before the turn-around where there is a cave-like waterfall visible from the road. From here, hike right and up around the 'cave' then make a hard left back up over the ridge and down into the wash. From there, follow the wash up a series of waterfalls of increasing height. About 60' after you pass about an 8' waterfall that you have to scramble around the right side of, you will be at a trail crossroads. Make a left here and follow all the way up... heart-shaped rocks will guide you in (you'll see). When you reach the slab (trail ends) just smear up and follow your nose up to the ridge way right of Queen Vic and walk in from the far right. This will put you at the base of the Regular Route. Sep 20, 2010

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