Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chuck Martens 1969
Page Views: 33,183 total · 151/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006 · Updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

You & This Route

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Description Suggest change

This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.

P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.

P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above. Scramble up left to a single bolt + small cam belay below the final pitch.

P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.

Protection Suggest change

Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.

Descent Suggest change

Rappel 100 feet from summit to a pair of bolts on the top edge of the limestone (this anchor is located to the northwest, climbers right, of where you climb the wide crack). Then rappel another 100 feet to the base of the east side of the formation. Note: This descent CAN be made with a single 60m rope, but you should take note of the ends of your rope at all times!!! The bottom rappel will involve downclimbing some easy terrain to flat ground, so DO NOT rap off the end of your rope!!!