Type: Trad, 250 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chuck Martens 1969
Page Views: 19,775 total · 124/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

147 Opinions

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This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.

P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.

P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above.

P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.


Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.


Rappel 100 feet from summit to a pair of bolts on the edge of the limestone (this anchor is located to the northwest of where you climb the wide crack). Then rappel another 100 feet to the base of the east side of the formation. Note: This descent CAN be made with a single 60m rope, but you should take note of the ends of your rope at all times!!! The bottom rappel will involve downclimbing some easy terrain to flat ground, so DO NOT rap off the end of your rope!!!
I think this is a great intro to Sedona Route, challenging climbing for the uninitiated and awesome summit. It most definitely can be rapped with one 60 meter rope, just be sure you have the middle marked. Also as far as the rack is concerened, most would do fine with a single set from around blue metolius to "old style, not C4" #4 Camalot (only needed on the second pitch, but having just done it without one I'd recommend not forgetting it!) Also to whomever is chalking up the route with ratings and other random grafitti, c'mon this is Sedona. Good luck and enjoy! Feb 26, 2006
Will Cobb
Flagstaff, AZ
Will Cobb   Flagstaff, AZ
To avoid the pitch 2 OW climb straight up off the first belay and through a 5.7+ corner in the Limestone band. This ends at one of the rappel anchors. I would recommend climbing the OW pitch at least once though because it is fun. Apr 19, 2006
rick klemens  
Great classic route. Kind of chossy but good gear and a great summit!!! Jan 22, 2008
Pete Hickman
Tacoma, WA
Pete Hickman   Tacoma, WA
#4 C4 a very good idea for pitch 2, #5 is unnecessary unless you have one burning a hole in your pocket. Or, unless you have 90$ burning a hole in your pocket and are looking for an excuse to buy a #5. You can get an at least marginal placement with a small cam (#2 C3 for example) making the #5 unnecessary, especially since the move it protects is not hard unless you are very short. Also, there is one bolt at the top of the second pitch on a huge ledge. Great climb! Mar 15, 2009
Kimberly Creagan
Tucson, AZ
Kimberly Creagan   Tucson, AZ
We had a great time on this route. It was very interesting, challenging, and thrilling. Most of the route seemed pretty easy, but the OW and the Dihedral seemed more like a 5.9 move to me. A little harder than I was expecting for my first multi-pitch, but wonderful none-the-less. Hiking the trail up is recommended (oops)...park at the semi-circle pullout on the left about 2 miles up if you want to link to the trail right away. Otherwise, you can hook up to the trail from the one before that by hiking up the wash. Sep 19, 2010
Angela Mabe
Angela Mabe   Flagstaff,AZ
this was such a fun climb! im glad i brought the 5 up with me. i had the newer C4 for the offwidth and it fit fine. placed nothing smaller than a .5 and the summit was unbelievable!! sedona adventure climbing for sure :) Mar 28, 2011
Greg Malloure
Prescott Az
Greg Malloure   Prescott Az
Great begginer climb. The pitches are short but have challenges, the ledges are huge, and the summit is great.

That said dont expect much climbing on this route.

I recomend the pitch 2 variation up the corner to avoid the OW. Its more fun. I would disagree about it being 5.7+ maybe a little harder. But if you can climb 5.7 just sew it up and go for it. Its the only move on the pitch so you can use a ton of gear to protect it.

If you take the second pitch variation a single set of cams from .4 to 2 (camolots) as well as a set of nuts will suffice for the entire route.

Aviod bringing two ropes unless you have to. The route raps easily with one 60m rope. Jan 30, 2012
jeffrey c gibson
pheonix az
jeffrey c gibson   pheonix az
You can double rope rap this one, and scramble the last ten feet.Rappel the chute on the climbers right of the start chimney.Great introduction to trad, and well protected crux moves. Mar 28, 2012
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
Approach from cowpiles may be longer but is a great walk and you get to tour the area's standout lines. Highly recommended. I like doubles .5-2, single 3, 4, 5. Both the 4 and 5 are perfect for the short crux of p2. Nice spot for the 5 on p3 too. Feb 4, 2013
Micah Kurtz
Denver, Co
Micah Kurtz   Denver, Co
This is a fun climb. The first pitch is the best in my opinion just because it has the most climbing. The other two pitches are basically just one move. I did think that the pro on the third pitch was very scarce until you get to the dihedral, which made it a little scary. Other then that all the pro seemed secure, no need for a #5 on pitch two, just squeeze in and reach for the ledge. Mar 15, 2013
Laurel Arndt
Laurel Arndt   Phoenix
Fun day, agree with prior comments, first route has most/best climbing other pitches are 1-2 moves and than easy. If you have a #5 take it, just to make you feel better.

Just for clarification for anyone climbing Sedona or this route for the first time, you truly only need one rope..on the second rap you will be 15 feet short with a 60 and the "downclimb" is very easy. Maybe Greg can edit this in the beta section, not just on the threads. Apr 8, 2013
Paul Zander
Bern, CH
Paul Zander   Bern, CH
If you're 6' 4" this will feel 5.6 because you'll be able to reach above the cruxes to large ledges. The views are stellar. Don't bring two ropes. Even if your rope is short you can break it into 3 rappels by using the anchors at the top of the first pitch without a problem. May 1, 2013
Jacob Dolence
Morgantown, WV
Jacob Dolence   Morgantown, WV
Hey wanted to give folks a heads up. A large group of us (7) will be climbing this spire on Sunday October 6th around noon as part of a wedding. Of course we will be happy let people pass, but just wanted to give a heads up that it may be a cluster up there. Sep 30, 2013
Flagstaff, AZ
JBain   Flagstaff, AZ
This spire is a great intro to mutli pitch climbing for beginners. I did this with a friend a day before ACL surgery. The hike was the hardest part for me. You don't need the #5 but I say if you have one, bring it. One 70 meter rope does the trick with plenty left at the rap stations. You probably could get away with one 60 meter rope. Enjoy!
Jan 30, 2014
I want to give a heads up for Saturday (22 February, 2014); I am bringing a group up Queen Vic this Saturday. I will work with those (outside my group) that also plan on doing the climb that day. Hopefully we can all summit and have a wonderful, enjoyable climb! I am certain we can work it out.

David Feb 20, 2014
Josh Tokioka
Kirkland, WA
Josh Tokioka   Kirkland, WA
Hey everyone, I'll be climbing Queen Victoria on Tuesday next week [11.11.14]. Just a heads up, we will be a part of three. Nov 5, 2014
B Lewis  
At the top of the first pitch there are no rap rings. There is a tree with a sling to the left of the anchors, but we opted not to use it because of an extremely loose boulder in contact with it. It could be pushed off, but there were other people in the area that day, so we opted to leave a sling and biners on the anchors of the first pitch 5/24/15. (Forgot the knife this day for webbing and a rap ring)

The #4 camalot was crucial for the second pitch offwidth. It's a limestone band and a little slick. If you're taller ~6ft there's no need for a #5. I just jumped up and grabbed the top. We did it in 2 pitches, but the rope drag got pretty bad. You should definitely bring 2 ropes.

On the approach we went up the wash like the page recommends, but saw a trail from the top which was way more pleasant of a hike. We believe it was the "cow pies" trail. May 28, 2015
Alex "Tojo" Kray
Chandler, AZ
Alex "Tojo" Kray   Chandler, AZ
I think i used a total of 4 pieces for this entire route. I read from some where that some one thought the hardest part of this route is the approach, i think id have to agree.

Pitch 1 is definitely the money pitch, being the only pitch that you are actually climbing its entirety.

Pitch 2 is more of a hike to the limestone off-width. The off-width is split, more or less, in half. The bottom half is good for a #4 c4, wedge in as high as you until you can reach the lip then pull up over. The second half takes a #5 c4 but is completely unnecessary, even if this is your first trad lead. You can easily reach the bomber lip of the limestone, even if you are short (the first half of the limestone is the height dependent part). After you are on top of the limestone, you reach a ledge big enough to park a truck on it. HIKE up and left to a bolt for anchors.

Pitch 3 in my opinion had the funnest moves which were more less pull ups, obviously could have used more technique but i thought it warranted some "monkeying around" on :) Nov 16, 2015
We drove to three different parking areas and there is no picnic table. The circle pullout is the largest parking spot and is around 1.9 miles from the start of the unpaved road. Note: high clearance vehicle is needed to get back there. Head north from parking lot and get on the Munds wagon trail heading west. The trail heads down a wash but then takes a sharp right turn heading north and then west again where it crosses the hangover trail. Take the hangover trail towards the northwest where you will come across a steep climbers trail that heads up and around to the east side of Queen Victoria. We used a 70 meter rope and it got all the way to the base. I found clipping into the tree on the 2nd pitch useless. Dec 14, 2015
Derek Field
Derek Field   California
Good one for rookies. The actual 5th-class moves on this route are few and short-lived, but at least the summit is incredible. Lots of cairns on the approach from Schnebly Hill Road, just head for the spire and you really can't go wrong.

P1 is a chimney on the east face that starts off very easy and steepens for a brief sequence of 5.6 moves near the top.
P2: Start by scrambling left to a tree at the base of an offwidth dihedral in the limestone band. This 10' tall feature takes a single 4" cam. Continue scrambling left to a belay anchor (one bolt backed by small-med cams) on a southern ledge.
P3: Scramble up, pull a small juggy roof, and scramble some more to the summit. Feels much easier than the quoted 5.7+ grade. Mar 2, 2016
Garrett Foster Green
Salt Lake, UT
Garrett Foster Green   Salt Lake, UT
A must do, especially if you are just visiting.

We didn't have an appropriate vehicle to drive the dirt road up to the recommended pull out, so we parked in the first parking lot and took the long way in. We used the "Munds Wagon" trail till it met up with a part of the "Hangover" loop that heads west towards the spire. This was a beautiful and easy hike that took us just below the spire and left only 5-10 minutes of easy scrambling to the base of the climb. This way was probably much longer than the usual approach but it was incredibly beautiful and super cruiser.

The climbing was straightforward with very few committing moves - but committing nonetheless. Gear placements were bomber and the only pitch that took more than 3 pieces for me was the first pitch. A rack of BD #0.3-4 and a 70 meter rope will get you up and down.

P1: Kinda awkward with a few fun moves but overall rather forgettable.
P2: Fun offwidth - shortlived but burley bring the #4
P3: I wish the corner moves on this lasted another 100 feet. So. Fun. May 29, 2017

fun route with a nice approach, great views, and fairly good rock. Jan 3, 2018
Kar Red
Bend Oregon
Kar Red   Bend Oregon
The pitch 2 variation is fun! Highly recommended. I wish that crack went another 100'. Jan 25, 2018
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
Rappel 'hangers' on top are spinners and may need replacement. There's also quicklinks on them that should be chopped bc they are useless and make it impossible to pull your rope if you use them. Jan 22, 2019
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Thanks Sam! The Sedona Anchor Replacement Coalition And Spinner Mitigation team will get right on that! Any others to add to the punch list? Jan 22, 2019 · Temporary Report
Sam Elander
Bullhead City, AZ
Sam Elander   Bullhead City, AZ
Awesome! Thanks Darren Mabe and coalition!
I am not sure, but I would check the anchors atop Pitch 1 for this route.

see my comment on Reg route on the Mace:
"The bolt on the airy traverse is WAY out. It definitely needs to be replaced. Kind of terrifying for that traverse, but was able to half-trust it.

The bolt on the 4th pitch seemed OK, but was a spinner.

Each belay only has ONE eyebolt. I was able to back it up on the first pitch, but the others, it is too far away from pro.
Even though they seem BOMBER, you're always supposed to anchor off of two points... "

Will you shoot me a message if you get this Darren? Thx! Jan 24, 2019
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
You are welcome Sam! Though the S.A.R.C.A.S.M team recommends basic Sedona climbers' gear to include a crescent wrench to tighten up those pesky spinners, along with a few quicklinks and spare webbing to freshen up stale and poorly designed anchors. 2019 means everyone gets an opportunity to be stewards! Jan 26, 2019 · Temporary Report
Richard Fernandez
Flagstaff, AZ
Richard Fernandez   Flagstaff, AZ
Moderators Jan 26, 2019
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Such A Ridiculous Comment And Sedona Malarky, Richard! Jan 27, 2019 · Temporary Report
Darren Mabe
Flagstaff, AZ
Darren Mabe   Flagstaff, AZ
Seriously, about ratings?! Cuzco are sandbaggers, man Jan 27, 2019 · Temporary Report
Richard Fernandez
Flagstaff, AZ
Richard Fernandez   Flagstaff, AZ
Surreptitious Acrimony Resembles Coy Attention Seeking Malheureux Jan 27, 2019
Tyler Mattix
Flagstaff, AZ
Tyler Mattix   Flagstaff, AZ
A trip up the Regular Route:

youtube.com/watch?v=_HThlOj… Jan 29, 2019
Evan Matthews
Jackson, WY
Evan Matthews   Jackson, WY
Better than people give it credit for, although the fifth class moves are certainly limited! First pitch was money. If there are no parties above you (who would potentially need to rap while you're climbing) and you want to do the variation for "pitch" two, I'd highly recommend linking the vari with pitch one as it's only another 60ft of rope or so (just my guestimation). If you want to do that, just continue past the first belay ledge (left then right) and up the crack to the rap anchor. The crack is super fun and well protected moves (although short-lived)! You may place a piece on the left side of the bulge as you leave the regular first belay - if you do this, bring a 48" runner to help minimize drag. Linking this way turns the climb into two pitches and would likely trim the overall time down a good bit.

Also, we parked at the Mund's Wagon Trail TH as we were in a Prius, and made it to the base of the climb in about 1.5hrs. Mar 11, 2019