Type: Trad, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: Chuck Martens 1969
Page Views: 24,020 total · 135/month
Shared By: Orphaned on Feb 2, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


173 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is one of the nicer easy routes I've done in Sedona and probably a pretty good one for a maiden climbing experience here. From the ridge on the approach, follow your nose west along the ridge to the east side of Queen Vic where the route is located.

P1) Traverse in from the right across to a prominent chimney. Climb the chimney (5.6) to a fixed belay. I believe the anchors are visible from the ground for pitch one.

P2) From the belay, traverse left across some easier ledges to a wide crack in the limestone band. Surmount this crack (crux) to gain a big ledge above.

P3) Out left on the south face, climb up to a prominent dihedral (the "trick dihedral"), climb up the dihedral, then up a bit, traverse right and up to gain the summit anchors.

Protection

Standard rack selection, nuts and cams. Take two ropes. I have a friend who says he made the raps with a single 60m rope. Some downclimbing might be necessary if you go that way.

Descent

Rappel 100 feet from summit to a pair of bolts on the edge of the limestone (this anchor is located to the northwest of where you climb the wide crack). Then rappel another 100 feet to the base of the east side of the formation. Note: This descent CAN be made with a single 60m rope, but you should take note of the ends of your rope at all times!!! The bottom rappel will involve downclimbing some easy terrain to flat ground, so DO NOT rap off the end of your rope!!!

Photos