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Routes in Island Rock

Cracks are for Kids T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Miss Mantle S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
No Man is an Island S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Description

Island Rock is a prominent although obscure crag (deservedly so) on the south side of the creek. It faces northwest and so is usually shady. There are two old trad route, Cracks are for Kids, 5.8 and short, and the longer, decent-looking Lost Ring, 5.7, which I haven't done. Recently Vaino Kodas and Bob D'Antonio added the pretty good 11a sport climb No Man is an Island. There is room for more routes. The main face has a bunch of trad features, but it's pretty dirty. The (west-facing?) right face has some potential also, and there's another formation just up the hill.

L->R

A. Cracks are for Kids, 8-, 1p, 80', gear.
B. No Man is an Island, 11-, 1p, 70', bolts.
C. Lost Ring?, 7, 1p, gear.
D. Miss Mantle, 11, 1p, 50', bolts.
Private Property Details
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

4.2 miles up Boulder Canyon (Rossiter's mileages), about 0.3 miles past the Sugarloaf turnoff, there is an "island" of rock with a dirt road going part way around it on its left side, between the rock and the creek. Park here. Island Rock is the rock across the creek. Brick Wall is about 0.4 miles beyond Island Rock. The creek is often high, so much of the year the crag is hard to access. Cross the creek where you can and move left or right until below the crag. Continue up hill, and you will come upon an open grassy slope that leads to the base. Scramble up left towards a steep gully in rock to access Cracks are for Kids and No Man is an Island. Lost Ring is on the right prow of the main face.

Glass

Note, there is a fair amount of broken glass in this area, even going all the way up to the crag.

3 Total Climbs

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LKR
LKR  
Based on county maps, I think this is on private property. :( Aug 19, 2011
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
Presently the stream is just low enough to cross by rock-hopping. There is no trail per se, but it is still an easy 10 min approach to the base area for the left-3 routes. That thing over to the right has a terrible and dangerous approach though, up a very steep moss gully that would break your neck if you slipped. Apr 28, 2011

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