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North Rock Rock Climbing
Routes in North Rock
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First Crack T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Off the Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Second Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R |
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| Elevation: | 6,752 ft | 2,058 m |
| GPS: |
39.93271, -105.28585 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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| Page Views: | 5,127 total · 21/month | |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Jul 26, 2004 | |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Access Issue: 2023 Seasonal Closures - lifted
Details
Update: as of 6/7/23 per Mike McHugh, ECSP: all closures have been lifted within Eldorado Canyon State Park, including Continental Crag.
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Crags on Eldorado Mountain, such as Mickey Mouse wall and Cryptic Crags, are outside of park boundaries and may still be subject to Boulder County closures.
Previously in 2023: per M. McHugh, ECSP: the upper loop of the Rattlesnake Gulch Trail, above the Crags Hotel Ruin, & the
Continental Divide Overlook, is closed effective immediately. This included Continental Crag.
These areas are closed to all activities, including rock climbing & hiking, through 7/15 or until further notice, to protect nesting golden eagles on the S side of the canyon.
Golden Eagles are protected by the U.S. Fish & Wildlife Service under authority of the Bald and Golden Eagle Protection Act and the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. A conviction of nest disturbance can carry a fine to $5,000 & one year imprisonment.
See the map in the photo section for terrain closure.
Previous years: per Dustin Bergman, CO State Parks Officer #770, ECSP:
Seasonal Raptor Closures
Check Park site for current closures:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
For more info visit:
cpw.state.co.us/placestogo/…
Double check prior to venturing there. Thanks!
Description
North Rock might be the least visited and most obscure crag in Eldorado Canyon- or it is at least in the running for the title, and deservedly so.The rock has a mix of crack & face routes, mostly still with some lichen and loose rock, some with some runouts. The rock is generally "sticky" and offers good friction & edging, but the friction there will be determined more by moss and lichen than by rock quality. Some routes are worse than others.
North Rock is worth a visit for a few easy-to-moderate lines if you are already at the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge and want to escape the sun. As implied by the name of the formation, it faces north. Almost due north. Even at mid-day in July, this crag gets NO sun. Of course, that and the trees hugging the 40-80' face make for primo moss and lichen growth. The wall dries slowly, and was damp/slick a full 24 hours after a good rain.
The routes here are mostly indistinct with a few exceptions, but the best of those seem to be only 1 star. Again, the novelty of this wall is simply shade, and really nothing more.
Once up top, scramble down and around or up and around from the back side (3rd and in spots a few easy 4th class moves) and around back to the base, a 4 minute adventure at most. Some trees do populate the top for TR'ing, so if that is what you have in mind, take some long webbing- and maybe a big stiff brush.
North Rock is worth a visit for a few easy-to-moderate lines if you are already at the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge and want to escape the sun. As implied by the name of the formation, it faces north. Almost due north. Even at mid-day in July, this crag gets NO sun. Of course, that and the trees hugging the 40-80' face make for primo moss and lichen growth. The wall dries slowly, and was damp/slick a full 24 hours after a good rain.
The routes here are mostly indistinct with a few exceptions, but the best of those seem to be only 1 star. Again, the novelty of this wall is simply shade, and really nothing more.
Once up top, scramble down and around or up and around from the back side (3rd and in spots a few easy 4th class moves) and around back to the base, a 4 minute adventure at most. Some trees do populate the top for TR'ing, so if that is what you have in mind, take some long webbing- and maybe a big stiff brush.
Getting There
Follow the trail up for Hawk-Eagle Ridge and come completely to the top of that formation. Pass though a 'notch' or 'keyhole' and rop over to the north side. (Don't hit your head on the hanging branch above the slot - I and my partner both did it, HARD). Once through the notch, turn 90 degree left and walk uphill for 1 minute or less, a crag will emerge on your left, small at first, but increasing in size on the way up. This is ~50m uphill.
Sun Angles Details:
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Photos
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