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Routes in North Rock

First Crack T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c
Off the Wall T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Second Crack T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c R

Description

North Rock might be the least visited and most obscure crag in Eldorado Canyon- or it is at least in the running for the title, and deservedly so.The rock has a mix of crack & face routes, mostly still with some lichen and loose rock, some with some runouts. The rock is generally "sticky" and offers good friction & edging, but the friction there will be determined more by moss and lichen than by rock quality. Some routes are worse than others.

North Rock is worth a visit for a few easy-to-moderate lines if you are already at the top of the Hawk Eagle Ridge and want to escape the sun. As implied by the name of the formation, it faces north. Almost due north. Even at mid-day in July, this crag gets NO sun. Of course, that and the trees hugging the 40-80' face make for primo moss and lichen growth. The wall dries slowly, and was damp/slick a full 24 hours after a good rain.

The routes here are mostly indistinct with a few exceptions, but the best of those seem to be only 1 star. Again, the novelty of this wall is simply shade, and really nothing more.

Once up top, scramble down and around or up and around from the back side (3rd and in spots a few easy 4th class moves) and around back to the base, a 4 minute adventure at most. Some trees do populate the top for TR'ing, so if that is what you have in mind, take some long webbing- and maybe a big stiff brush.
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Getting There

Follow the trail up for Hawk-Eagle Ridge and come completely to the top of that formation. Pass though a 'notch' or 'keyhole' and rop over to the north side. (Don't hit your head on the hanging branch above the slot - I and my partner both did it, HARD). Once through the notch, turn 90 degree left and walk uphill for 1 minute or less, a crag will emerge on your left, small at first, but increasing in size on the way up. This is ~50m uphill.

3 Total Climbs

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Eric Klammer
Boulder, CO
Eric Klammer   Boulder, CO
That branch over the slot is no joke! I rammed my head into it last year, and I think my ears are still ringing.... Apr 1, 2015

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