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Schmoe's Nose Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Schmoe's Nose

	North Ear Canal T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R
	North Nostril T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

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Elevation:	7,600 ft	2,316 m
GPS:	39.9817, -105.2947 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views:	4,128 total · 15/month
Shared By:	George Bell on May 27, 2002
Admins:	Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details

The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:

See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….

Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:

flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…

Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.

Description

This obscure Flatiron crag is located behind (NW) of the Fifth Flatiron, between the summit of the Fourth Flatiron and the Fist or Hippo Head. It's narrow east face contains a significant overhang which resembles a nose. This rock is very rarely visited, probably because of the long approach and nasty bushwhacking that surrounds it. This elusive summit is not easy to reach.

Getting There

The shortest approach is to thrash up north of the Fifth Flatiron, but this is not recommended. The ideal way to approach this crag is after climbing the Fifth Flatiron. From the base of the rap off the Fifth, the base of the east face of Schmoe's Nose is only about a hundred yards north and a bit lower, although this is a steep, vegetated 100 yards. The best way to go down, or if you want to avoid the Fifth on the way up, is to use the crude trail south of the Fifth Flatiron.

To descend from the summit, downclimb a steep crack on the west for 20' (5.2) to a large ledge. This crack can be down-led if you don't want to free solo this. A block here has been slung with a cable; do a short rap from this NW to the ground. You can scramble down the gully north of Schmoe's Nose.