Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Corwin Simmon and Lynn Rydsdale, 1950s
Page Views: 941 total · 5/month
Shared By: George Bell on May 24, 2002
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route

15 Opinions

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Access Issue: Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures Details


Also known as "East Face Right", this is probably the easiest route on Schmoe's Nose. This route ascends the narrow east face, and then climbs a dihedral right (north) of the "nose", climbing a short overhang to the bridge of the nose and then on up the upper east face to the top.

The bottom of the east face is not well defined and contains many trees. You can start from the bottom or bushwhack up north of the face and get on the rock higher up. From the highest trees on the face, climb a crack near the right side of the face. Getting into the dihedral of the nose is tricky route finding and somewhat runout.

In the dihedral is a series of three stacked blocks, called "the boogers". There is a piton to the right of the first one, and the cracks on either side offer great pro, but this entire area is a bit spooky as it's not clear what is holding the entire mass in place. Crank past the top overhanging booger and squeeze into a slot past it onto a giant belay ledge. You can reach this spot from the highest trees with a 60m rope.

The final pitch is much easier, step over a small overhang and run up the low angle face. Standard Flatiron fare, including a lack of protection. Belay on the summit. See the rock description for the descent.


Standard rack to #3 Camalot, long slings.
If this route was closer to the trails it would be a major attraction. As it is today, it seats in a part of the mountain that most Flatiron hikers and climber are unlikely to visit... ever...

The route is way cool, steeper than most Flatirons, requiring a cool layback and some overhang cranking. Unfortunately lack of traffic has allowed a healthy crop of lichen to mature since the 1960's it's my guess...

Worth a visit if you're ever in that hood...

WT Jun 14, 2002
I did a variation on this route. Instead of going left into the dihedral, I stayed out on the north-east edge until I reached a loose piton at the top. I backed the piton up with a cam and traversed left under the roof. I would rate this variation at 5.7 for shorter people. Sep 6, 2003
I recommend approaching and descending by the well established trail to the south of the Fifth Flatiron. Sep 6, 2003
Tony B
Around Boulder, CO
Tony B   Around Boulder, CO
From a quality perspective, the route is better if you stay left for the bottom part of the route. Less dirt, munge and lichen. From a difficulty perspective, I think that the crack/corner going over the "boogers" is pretty hard for 5.6. I'd give it 5.7+ or harder. It is pretty darn physical and might be hardest for "big boned" people who can't fit through the first slot and have to go up and over. Lastly, this is a longer route than appearances give. I think the best way to do it is a pitch the the large tree at the center of the face, a pitch up to and through the corner at the bulge (over the boogers) and then a pitch to the top. Each of these will be quite a bit more than a 1/2 rope length. PS- take a few large cams (3" +) for the belay above the boogers. May 23, 2004
What a cool climb, a bit steep for 5.6, but it's a short section. Also, be careful when climbing the steep section. The blocks are big and loose. There are jugs to the left of those blocks that are a little hard to reach but way safer than pulling on those "boogers!" Oct 7, 2006
neil chelton
Boulder, CO
  5.7 PG13
neil chelton   Boulder, CO
  5.7 PG13
The last 'booger' is currently very unstable. It defies all laws of physics that is still there. It's possible to use jug holds on the left of the boogers to avoid pulling a half-ton rock on your belayer. May 23, 2010
Brian C.
Longmont, CO
  5.6 PG13
Brian C.   Longmont, CO
  5.6 PG13
In contrast to the other comment, the upper "booger" is not going anywhere. I yarded on it thoroughly, pounded on it, crawled over it, and gave it a general thrashing without the slightest movement, vibration, or any other sign of instability. It is a large block wedged in there, but unless you're VERY unlucky or weigh a thousand pounds, it's not going anywhere. I'd be much more wary of the summit rappel anchor that is a slung boulder sitting there. It sounds hollow and is not wedged in anything. We used it and it held, but if you're concerned about the booger, then I wouldn't touch this one as it probably could go with you if you weight it wrong.

Very enjoyable route overall. We ascended the Tangen Tunnel, and it is FILLED with brush and poison ivy this time of year. Maybe not the best approach to wear shorts on...itch, itch, scratch, scratch. Jul 17, 2013
Keith W
  5.6 PG13
Keith W  
  5.6 PG13
Did this today, and it is a very interesting climb. The bottom pitch is pretty dirty and slippery. The nostril pitch is wild and kinda spooky. Lots of loose blocks before you get to the boogers. In contrast to the comment below, that top booger shifted with the slightest touch from above it. It definitely holds, but it can be avoided. Pretty wild! As of today there are two rap options, there is a block on the summit with really bad looking rope and tat and some biners, or the cable with rope and rap rings. Oct 27, 2018