Avg: 2.4 from 14 votes
|Type:||Trad, 2 pitches|
|FA:||Corwin Simmon and Lynn Rydsdale, 1950s|
|Page Views:||856 total · 4/month|
|Shared By:||George Bell on May 24, 2002|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac|
DescriptionAlso known as "East Face Right", this is probably the easiest route on Schmoe's Nose. This route ascends the narrow east face, and then climbs a dihedral right (north) of the "nose", climbing a short overhang to the bridge of the nose and then on up the upper east face to the top.
The bottom of the east face is not well defined and contains many trees. You can start from the bottom or bushwhack up north of the face and get on the rock higher up. From the highest trees on the face, climb a crack near the right side of the face. Getting into the dihedral of the nose is tricky route finding and somewhat runout.
In the dihedral is a series of three stacked blocks, called "the boogers". There is a piton to the right of the first one, and the cracks on either side offer great pro, but this entire area is a bit spooky as it's not clear what is holding the entire mass in place. Crank past the top overhanging booger and squeeze into a slot past it onto a giant belay ledge. You can reach this spot from the highest trees with a 60m rope.
The final pitch is much easier, step over a small overhang and run up the low angle face. Standard Flatiron fare, including a lack of protection. Belay on the summit. See the rock description for the descent.