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Routes in Flying Buttress

Hanging Gardens S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Supersonic S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Access Issue: Reopened after flood damage! Details

Description

This is a prominent buttress, just west of the Amphitheater. 2 very nice multi-pitch routes go up the buttress, and more lurk around the corner, uphill.

Getting There

Follow the approach for North Cheyenne Canyon, using the parking area 0.85 miles after the canyon begins. Approach as for the Amphitheater. As the steep gully splits right to go into the amphitheater, look for a faint trail, going west along the base of a cliff. Follow this trail up a steep hill, using switchbacks and whatever else occasions itself. Look for a fairly large tree on a ledge that marks the start of the 2 routes on the buttress. You beneath the tree to the west and cut back to the east in some bushes to the start of the ledge that will take you up to the tree. Continue uphill for more routes.

Per Kevin Earls: from The Pikes Peak guide by Stewart Green "150 feet up the road" (from the rock foot bridge) just past the Pinnacle is the start of the trail that leads up a very loose steep scree gully. 1/3 of the way up this gully a faint trail leads off to the right (West) and switchbacks up -->400 feet<-- of loose steep trail to the ledge with the pine tree. Expect 30 minutes of climbing scree just to get to the base of the routes.

2 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Flying Buttress

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
 23
Hanging Gardens
Sport 2 pitches
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
 6
Supersonic
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Hanging Gardens
 23
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Sport 2 pitches
Supersonic
 6
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Sport
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T Burke
Colorado Springs, CO
T Burke   Colorado Springs, CO
Recommend both climbs if you are in the area. We did a 3rd pitch above the 2nd belay anchor, but don't recommend it! 1st two pitches are on good rock with good bolts & routes are straightforward. Oct 17, 2010
The beta to find the area needs much more explaining. The Pikes Peak guide by Stewart Green (link in the comments of Hanging Gardens) has the magic keywords "150ft up the road" (from the rock foot bridge) just past the Pinnacle is the start of the trail that leads up a very loose steep scree gully. 1/3 of the way up this gully a faint trail leads off to the right (West) and switchbacks up -->400ft<-- of loose steep trail to the ledge with the pine tree. Expect 30 minutes of climbing scree just to get to the base of the routes. I can't comment on the climbing, as my partner wasn't able to make it up the trail. Definitely not a date climb! Nov 20, 2012

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