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Routes in Ridge 4

Apostrophe S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Dodge City S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Honeymoon In Beirut S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hoss S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lawyers, Guns, and Hilties S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Life During Wartime S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Little Joe S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Miss Kitty S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mud Shark T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Occupied Territory S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Piece Process T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c R
Pinch A Loaf S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild, Wild West, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Access Issue: Private Property issues Details

Description

Sometime in the mid '80s this large sector of Eldorado Mountain was developed by a host of Boulder and Denver climbers. Ken Trout, Tod Anderson, Dave Fields, Ziggy, Mark Rolofson, myself, and a many others contributed to development. These fairly short crags all face South, hold numerous routes, and due to restrictions of some private property, the Railroad, and the town of Plainview, have seen little action in the last 8 years. Every now and then we make the pilgrimage to the West Bank, keeping a low profile, and this has never caused any trouble, but caution is always in order.

The area is composed of seven ridges and some large erratics sporting a route or two. The Secret Crag is reckoned as Ridge 2 (counting from the right) and is the most prominent of the seven ridges, and at least one of its routes dates back to a Jim Erickson ascent in the '70s. Ridge 1 takes off right at Tunnel 3 on the South side. Ridges 2, 4, 6, and 7 (counting from the right) hold 90% of the climbing. The rock seems to me more like Eldorado Canyon than Mickey Mouse and is full of edges, flakes, and corners. Most of the stone is a fine quality sandstone and well worth the hike in. Just leave the boom-box at home.

Getting There

From the railroad tracks, and between tunnels 2 and 3, a faint trail takes off up a short grassy slope and into the forest. Follow the trail up-hill until it dumps out at the base of long talus field. Enter the talus in its middle and after 50 feet a trail of blocks leads left (West) through the talus. At the end of the talus, pass a couple of large blocks on their downhill side and cut sharply right and uphill. The trail wanders through a sparse, section of the forest to a very steep, bolted overhang. This is the start of Ridge two. Numbering begins with this overhang (#1, Drive By Shooting, 5.12a).

L->R:

A. Cave Crack, 9, 1p, gear.
B. When Men Were Men, 11+, 1p, pin(s) and gear.
C. Unknown, 12, 1p.

D. West Wall, 9, 1p, TR.
E. Festus, 9, 1p, TR or bolts?
F. Crack, 9, 1p, gear.
G. Rawhide, 11, 1p, bolts.
H. Little Joe, 11, 1p, bolts.
I. Hoss, 11-, 1p, 60', gear, pin, & bolts.
J. Downclimb, 5, 1p, gear.
K. Loose Cannon, 8, 1p, gear.
L. Gunsmoke, 12, 1p, bolts & pin.
M. EZ Corner, 7, 1p, gear.
N. Miss Kitty, 6, 1p, 60', gear & bolts.
O. The Wild Wild West, 12-, 1p, 70', bolts.
P. Life During Wartime, 13-, 1p, 60', bolts.
Q. Unknown, 11, 1p, bolts.
R. Crack, 6, 1p, gear.
S. Roof Crack, 11, 1p, gear.
T. Honeymoon In Beirut, 12, 1p, 40', bolts.
U. The Great Defender, 13, 1p, bolts.
V. Moe Zone, 13, 1p, bolts.
W. Occupied Territory, 13-, 1p, 80', bolts.
X. Mighty Moe, 12, 1p, bolts.
Y. Mud Shark, 10+, 1p, 70', gear & bolts.
Z. Lawyers, Guns, and Hiltis, 11+, 1p, bolts.
AA. Apostrophe, 11+, 1p, bolts.
BB. Dodge City, 12-, 1p, 50', bolts.
CC. Pandora's Bosch, 11, 1p, gear & bolts.
DD. Ms. Coolie's Saloon aka Killer Elite, 11+, 1p, bolts.
EE. Piece Process, 11 R or X, 1p, gear.
FF. Pinch A Loaf, 10, 1p, bolts.
GG. Driveby Shooting, 12-, 1p, bolts.

14 Total Climbs

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Add to the dangers of locals with guns, trains in tunnels and the threat of tresspassing charges; the approach and base of a lot of the climbs is choked with poison ivy. I couldn't find any place at all under the "Killer Elite" corner to open and stack my rope; but for those tired of the Sport Park scene, this is great visit at least once. I think of it as "Urban Wilderness Sport Climbing". Be aware that these climbs were bolted a while ago and the bolt spacing is adequate but sparce. Feb 10, 2002
Don't you mean this is the start of Ridge 4. In the above description. Sounds like you are saying Ridge 4 is Ridge 2. Nov 4, 2007

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