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Routes in Little Crag

Belladonna T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Nothing To Fear T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Short but Cute T,TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X
Smooth Operator T,TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a X
Elevation: 5,850 ft
GPS: 40.014, -105.313 Google Map · Climbing Map
Page Views: 5,517 total, 27/month
Shared By: Ben Mottinger on Dec 31, 2000
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

Description

This is another example of Boulder climbers (Ament in particular) mining every bit of rock for another route. If you're bored one day and want to try something new in the Canyon, make the annoying approach to this rock, which actually has some interesting features.

L->R:

A. Belladonna, 10- R, 1p, gear.
B. Short but Cute, 10 X, 1p, gear or TR.
C. Nothing to Fear, 10 R, 1p, gear.
D. Smooth Operator, 11+ X, 1p, gear or TR.
E? Unknown, ?, 1p, bolts.
Seasonal Closure Details

Getting There

Park on the right side of the canyon (heading West) at about the 0.9mi mark. The approach starts after the bend in the road to the left. Find a indistinct trail on the left side of the road behind the guard rail. Head up the gully until you see the biggest rock around. This will be Little Crag.

4 Total Climbs

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gregsmiller
Louisville
gregsmiller   Louisville
Anyone know what the bolted climb is on the right side? Jun 18, 2013
I have enjoyed my two visits to Little Crag. Leave the trad gear/draws at home. Not the easiest top rope to set up, but I seem to remember a couple of decent bolts above the west face. Balancy, tweaky face climbing. Bring long slings. The crack on the left side, north face, is fun and felt like 5.10- to me, beware of loose flakes, I can't recommend leading it. I recall the access to the top, further around to the left of the crack to be interesting, try the right side. To toprope the crack, a static rope anchored to the big tree would be a big plus. Good for early/late season afternoon sun, keep an eye for it when you're coming down the creek path. Call me crazy, but with the exception of Zolar Czakl and the fourth Elephant Buttress, but is this the quickest accesible 5.10 top roping in Boulder? IMHO, worthy of a visit.

To toprope the crack, you probably want to be able to anchor from a tree that is more or less than forty feet from the top of the climb... May 15, 2003

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