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Areas in Georgetown

Curve Block 0 / 0 / 2 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 3
Curve Block Boulders 0 / 0 / 0 / 2 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 2
Georgetown Buttress, The 0 / 1 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 1
Greystone Block 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Guanella Pass 0 / 0 / 0 / 56 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 56 / 56
Inaugural Crag 2 / 6 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 6
Pocket Block 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
SR-1 (Saxon Road-1) 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0
Saxon Rock 0 / 4 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 0 / 4
Elevation: 8,489 ft
GPS: 39.711, -105.695 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Richard M. Wright on Feb 22, 2004 with updates
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac
Sorry, weather is currently unavailable.

Description

Georgetown. I've waited a long time to post this area largely because most of the crags are approached across private land. I had gone up a couple of years ago scouting and managed to get in one long route called "Dirty Pool" (5.12a, 170 ft, 18 clips) named after the biased drubbing that Mayor Koleen Brooks received when she was evicted from office. Subsequently, a sign appeared near the approach trail declaring the land private and for sale. So, I blew it all off for a while. In February 2004, I ventured back by first asking one of the land owners if I could cross their property. They gave a warm heads up with the caveats that (1) I was not hunting and (2) would respect their privacy and (3) their land. So, it would appear that one can climb here. Just treat the private property for what it is and ask permission first.

The Main crag, "The Georgetown Buttress" lies well up the West/North facing hill and is immediately obvious after crossing under the highway. The complex is composed of half a dozen granite crags, some upwards of 160 feet in height. The granite is nearly perfect. The East faces remain shady and are composed of bullet proof edges that are just a kick to climb on. The main west facing crag has several outrageous overhangs, faces, fins, and slabs. Development has just started on this main crag. A great deal of rock exists up toward and along the Guanella pass road. I humped into one of these crags, a mile or so up the road, last year only to find a nest slings high on one of the crags. So others have poked around here as well. Numerous crags also exist on the South side of the highway, but the best lie ominously above the road and any approach has to be immaculate. Nonetheless, some of these crags are brilliant, bullet-proof, and offer great potential for terrific climbing. Georgetown has been hardly tapped as climbing area, but if you are willing to make the hikes and are willing to deal with the process of securing permision, then terrific potential exists for some excellent sport climbs.

Getting There

Drive West on I-70 to Georgetown. Get off at the exit before the hill. Cross under the highway. The main crags are straight ahead and up the hill - 20 minutes. The hike up is a bit of a bear, two thirds of which has no trail.

72 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Georgetown

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V1 5
Easy Way Up
Boulder, Alpine
V2 5+
Chalk Block
Boulder, Alpine
V2+ 5+
Left Arete
Boulder, Alpine
V3 6A
Georgetown Arete (G.T.A.)
Boulder
V3 6A
Far Right SDS
Boulder, Alpine
V3+ 6A+
Sit Starts Matter
Boulder, Alpine
V4- 6B
Warm-Up Arete
Boulder, Alpine
V4-5 6B+
Over The Rainbow
Boulder, Alpine
V4-5 6B+
Trailside Problem
Boulder, Alpine
V5 6C
Face Problem
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
Guanella Arete
Boulder, Alpine
V6 7A
Traverse
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
Love Matters
Boulder, Alpine
V7 7A+
Compression Matters
Boulder, Alpine
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wanted Man
Sport
Easy Way Up Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Main Warm-Ups V1 5 Boulder, Alpine
Chalk Block Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Warm-Up Block Two V2 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Left Arete Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Arete Block V2+ 5+ Boulder, Alpine
Georgetown Arete (G.T.A.) Curve Block V3 6A Boulder
Far Right SDS Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Main Warm-Ups V3 6A Boulder, Alpine
Sit Starts Matter Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Main Warm-Ups V3+ 6A+ Boulder, Alpine
Warm-Up Arete Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Warm-Up Block Three V4- 6B Boulder, Alpine
Over The Rainbow Guanella Pass > Coors Crag V4-5 6B+ Boulder, Alpine
Trailside Problem Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Main Warm-Ups V4-5 6B+ Boulder, Alpine
Face Problem Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Main Warm-Ups V5 6C Boulder, Alpine
Guanella Arete Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Warm-Up Block One V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Traverse Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Main Warm-Ups V6 7A Boulder, Alpine
Love Matters Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Love Matters Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Compression Matters Guanella Pass > 7 Mile Boulders > Mind Matters Boulder V7 7A+ Boulder, Alpine
Wanted Man Saxon Rock 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
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Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
I'd be jazzed to take over the process of completing the line but not if I would be excoriated as a bottom-feeding, route-stealing slug. While I may indeed be the former, I have never had to resort to the later. Oct 30, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Hi Tigre. I wasn't sure if this was the same crag or not. After rapping in, it seemed likely. It also seems appropriate to determine if there is any intent on finishing the work. This last weekend I came prepared to knock the whole thing off in one short afternoon, but pinching a project is really low level, bottom-feeder stuff, so I did not do anything. There are other lines to be done on the same crag, but the main LOW follows the crack/seam system and would be stellar. If no one jumps in to claim it, I can finish the bolting and launch the other lines. I'll hang fire for the time being. However, from your comments, I would date the in situ gear at a year or so with no forward progress. Does that sound about right? Oct 29, 2012
Richard M. Wright
Lakewood, CO
Richard M. Wright   Lakewood, CO
Open project?? I went up to a small granite crag half a mile South of Georgetown on a recon mission. The crag sits just below the second switchback immediately South of town on the way to Guanella Pass. The crag can be approached from below or from above. My rappel from the top uncovered a couple of bolts, an anchor, and a fixed stopper. Clearly someone was looking at the same crag. The gear in situ appears to have been in for quite some time. In running the obvious line of weakness up the main wall, it was obvious that this line was freeable without being outrageously difficult. At least three, possibly four, LOWs exist that would recommend the crag for development. Is the anchored project still active, or is it open? Does the unknown developer have any designs on the other potential routes? Oct 28, 2012
YDPL8S
Santa Monica, Ca.
YDPL8S   Santa Monica, Ca.
Does anyone climb on the slab that is N. of I-70 just E. of the turnoff for Berthoud Pass (if you are headed W.)? I did some climbs there in 73-74 when I was living in Georgetown, it might be on private property. It's pretty short and has kind a cave/chimney on the top right side. Nov 4, 2010
Evan S
Erie, CO
Evan S   Erie, CO
Pictures please. Dec 13, 2009

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