A good mixture of climbing abounds. There are trad lines up to three pitches, great slabby routes, and offwidths (ouch!).
There is an entrance fee for the Central Area and for Lower Blair (if you park in front of Blair III). Otherwise, access to the crags is free. The fee areas are Federal land, so Golden Eagle and Golden Age passes are accepted. The camping, once totally free in the surrounding areas, has become more restricted. There is a fee campground in the Central Area with tables and outhouses. As of May 2018, Forest Service policy in the Laramie Ranger District indicates that the free dispersed camping along Forest Road 700 (Vedauwoo Road) between I-80 and Happy Jack Road (WY 210) is limited to 73 marked and numbered sites. Previously, free camping was permitted wherever was not explicitly prohibited.
Laramie is a college town with some local brew and dining available a mere 10 miles away. There are a great number of moderate classics as well as some stiffer grades for the big guns out there. There are areas right off the road and some more remote where you'll have little company. Most formations have walkoffs, but rap bolts are fairly prevalent.
Super must do classics include: Edward's Crack 5.7 (2 pitches), Kim 5.6, Friday The 13th 5.11a, 5.11 Crack 5.9+, MRC Direct 5.9.
The Local Climbing Organization for Vedauwoo is the South East Wyoming Climbing Coalition (SEWYCC). Their mission statement is: "Southeast Wyoming Climbers Coalition works towards the betterment of climbing access and issues in Southeast Wyoming. We are the unified voice of climbers for Vedauwoo and beyond." If you want to support stewardship and projects such as the replacement of old anchors, please consider donating to SEWYCC.
References: "Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo" by Robert Kelman, "Fat Crack Country--Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo" by Zach Oranczak, "Bouldering in Vedauwoo" by John Lombardi (see: http://vedauwoobouldering.com/), "Vedauwoo Bouldering" by D. Bagdonas (out of print but may be available on the used market), and "Heel & Toe: The Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo" by Skip Harper and Rob Kelman. You can also visit www.vedauwoo.org for more information about Vedauwoo and the Snowy Range.
You can't miss it. No, you really can't miss it! Take I-25 North to Cheyenne. From Cheyenne, go West on I-80 to the Vedauwoo Road, Exit 329. Look for the rocks to the North of the Interstate. You're there.
Per Ken Cramer: the Third Street exit is MM313 and the Summit exit is MM323. The Vedauvoo exit is MM329 on I-80. So figure on 20 minutes uphill past the Summit and beyond to Vedauwoo. It is 10 miles to the Summit and 16 to Vedauwoo.
Per JayJurkowitsch: as of 5/4/17, there are NO water facilities operating (as per info phone call today), even in the campground, all summer. Their water has tested too high positive for E.coli.
See a bat on a route, give a shout. Climbers for Bat Conservation is working with climbers to understand bat ecology and why bats choose certain cracks and flakes. If you see bats, and want to tell them, here is their email (climbersforbats@colostate.edu) and their website ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).
Climbers for Bat Conservation is a collaboration between climbers, bat biologists, and land managers to understand where bats roost and where large populations may reside. They are interested in finding bats because a new disease, called white-nose syndrome ( whitenosesyndrome.org/), has killed millions of bats in North America. This collaboration has identified bat roosts throughout the U.S., and as far away as Norway and Bulgaria. CBC was developed by biologists who climb and they are advocates for climbing access and bat conservation. If you see bats while climbing, please let them know by emailing them at climbersforbats@colostate.edu, or visiting their website to learn more ( climbersforbats.colostate.edu/).
Rob Schorr
Zoologist, Colorado Natural Heritage Program ( sites.warnercnr.colostate.e…)
Director, Climbers for Bat Conservation
Robert.schorr@colostate.edu
Longmont, CO
Loveland, CO
Information sought for new edition Heel and Toe - Climbs of Greater Vedauwoo, Wyoming. New routes, first ascent data, corrections, comments are solicited. Replies: Rob Kelman, 1312 Robertson St., Ft. Collins CO 80524; rkelman@hotmail.com; (970)482-0974 .
TIA for any comments, queries, kvetches.
Cheers,
RobKelman.calm 2 May 2002 10:13MDT (-6 UMT) May 2, 2002
Snohomish, WA
Snohomish, WA
Again, a thousand apologies, Spew and Chew Scoggins strikes again. Sep 17, 2002
Around Boulder, CO
-T. Jun 6, 2003
I'm sure all copies at local public libraries have been "lost", as unscrupulous individuals would be willing to pay the library replacement fee and just keep the book.
I bet the AMC/AAC library in Golden has a copy. Jun 6, 2003
Around Boulder, CO
When a book is out of print, I can't go buy it in such a way that the author gets any money out of it (nobody gets [royalties] on Ebay). When your favorite music album is out of print and you scratch yours, would you copy it to tape? When something is out of print, there isn't one to buy until the new one is out. In this case I don't see a date around for that. I'd agree with sending the author a few $ or a 6-pack of beer or whatever, provided you can find where to contact them if you have to copy the book.
I saw a lot of people [with] copies of BCN and BCS. A photo-copy of BCS fell into my hands in fact. And guess what? I already have a copy... two if you count the one that was stolen. But I do pull out a page from the binder and take it up a climb with me at times.
Rossiter isn't going to suffer any over my guidebook practices, considering I've owned 2 copies of BCS, one of BCN, the Eldo book, the Flats book, the BC book, and both of his RMNP books. Don't worry too much about me copying your books either- although I've never seen or read one, if they are in print and I wanted one, I'd go buy it. If I could not purchase the info, I'd go make a photo copy though, and if I wasn't afraid of you going off on me I'd buy you a 6 pack in return. Sheesh.
-T. Jun 10, 2003
Around Boulder, CO
Around Boulder, CO
Boulder, Colorado
Snohomish, WA
If you don't want to deal with bitter locals upset that they drive 15 miles to walk 6 before they find a route that's open, then can I suggest South St. Vrain canyon? Or perhaps South Platte if you want the same type of rock? Clear Creek Canyon is pretty open too, as well as the Flatirons, but all three are getting a bit far south. Lumpy Ridge, I hear, has some good climbing. Or do some of that unclimbed granite near Virginia Dale. Or perhaps you could pick a other route than Edward's Crack, Kim, or Coldfinger. Go do Jaquot's face (its the line of bolts right of Ed's) or Candlestick (big chimney a ways left of Friday the 13th). Go try Overload or work Lucille. Try Father #1 or for something easier do Horticulture. Try Captain Nemo. Everybody up there it seems is afraid to push it out into interesting climbs, so those of going for a quick afterwork burn can actually do so and not just walk for hours on end looking for an open route. You people are on vacation, you've got time to walk a bit eh?
I'm presently roadtripping more than climbing at Vedauwoo (and I live in Laramie) because I can never get on any routes worth doing. There's something ridiculous about getting up there at 8 in the morning and still getting beat to Edward's Crack by "Greenies." Jul 3, 2003
Snohomish, WA
I have been to Wyoming a few times to climb...and I have never had a bad experience, beyond the speed trap in Sinclair. I told the driver to slow down when I saw the billboard sized 15MPH sign and the old patrol sitting there. And if anyone has seen my bullet ridden skull, please return it, they have a habit of rolling out of your pack you know. Jul 3, 2003
Snohomish, WA
Fremont [Canyon] rules, but I cannot seem to encourage any of my friends to drive up to Casper again with me....(maybe your onto something)...heh
It is Dome Rock that is between here and Lander/Wild Iris...that reminded me of the S. Platte, specially the sketchy historic bolt clipping....if it wasn't for the traffic ticket and my first driver side rear tire disintigration on my buddy's Ford Exploder, that trip would have been perfect.
But enough about me, how about climbingwyoming.com, I am sure that would attract a few of us lazy bastards away from Vedauwoo....and the URL is even available...you could be the next Wyoming Ambassador...go for it! Jul 8, 2003
As for Skip Harper, I greatly admire him. He's done so much for documenting the area, and we should all be thankful. The huge groups aren't necessarily from him, but NOLS and outdoor groups like that. I have no problems with small groups wanting to go climb, heck even I will take some (4 or 5) of my friends out for a day. The thing with this is sharing. If someone just walks up, wanting to do whatever climb and I'm on it, I'll offer to pull my rope for a couple of attempts or they can climb on my rope! I really don't care, we need to stop fighting though. If we continue to fight and not abide by things like Leave No Trace and support the Access Fund, Veedauwoo is doomed for climbers and possibly everyone. As much as I can do, I'm afraid that Vedauwoo might turn into what's currently happening in Hueco Tanks or the Happy Boulders in California.
Sincerely, I am a Wyoming native. And I really don't mind if the "greenies" want to come climb in my back yard - they are citizens of the United States too. This is a great country in that the citizens have freedom. But please respect that it is my backyard. Pick up the trash (I'm not throwing out blame, we do it too). But help me out here. We (ALL of us) need to make a conscious effort to share and to take care of this precious treasure. If everyone enjoys it as much as they say they do, they should take care of it. Dec 13, 2003
As for Skip Harper, I greatly admire him. He's done so much for documenting the area, and we should all be thankful. The huge groups aren't necessarily from him, but NOLS and outdoor groups like that. I have no problems with small groups wanting to go climb, heck even I will take some (4 or 5) of my friends out for a day. The thing with this is sharing. If someone just walks up, wanting to do whatever climb and I'm on it, I'll offer to pull my rope for a couple of attempts or they can climb on my rope! I really don't care, we need to stop fighting though. If we continue to fight and not abide by things like Leave No Trace and support the Access Fund, Veedauwoo is doomed for climbers and possibly everyone. As much as I can do, I'm afraid that Vedauwoo might turn into what's currently happening in Hueco Tanks or the Happy Boulders in California.
I am a Wyoming native. And, sincerely, I really don't mind if the "greenies" want to come climb in my back yard - they are citizens of the United States too. This is a great country in that the citizens have freedom. But please respect that it is my backyard, my home. Pick up the trash (I'm not throwing out blame, we do it too). But help me out here. We (ALL of us) need to make a conscious effort to share and to take care of this precious treasure. If everyone enjoys it as much as they say they do, they should take care of it. Dec 16, 2003
- *****Vedawuoo Guidebook On Sale Now*******New Vedauwoo guidebook is finally on sale. Go to extremeangles.com/to pick one up before their all gone.
Dec 19, 2003Snohomish, WA
Feb 24, 2004
Snohomish, WA
We then walked to the Southeast side only to find the same BS there. Now, we didn't look above "Flaming Blue Jesus" because it was out of sight from the top, but I presume it was the same story.
We ended up having to down climb a section of rock that was uncomfortable to say the least. Who ever did this was trying to prove a point of some kind. I'm not sure exactly what, but I did light a fire under my ass. This is a good way for someone to get hurt. Climbers beware of the state that some ahole left the raps on top of the Holdout. Jul 13, 2004
Loveland, CO
Kelman, Robert B., Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, Wyoming: Climbs of the Eastern Medicine Bow National Forest, Heel and Toe Publishers, Fort Collins, 2004.
Orenczak, Zach, Fat Crack Country: Rock Climbing in Vedauwoo, Extremeangles, Laramie, 2003.
Both are available at local climbing stores/booksellers and on the web. Oct 14, 2004
Loveland, CO
Dear Anonymous Coward: Rappel stations are indicated by the symbol "R" in the graphics . There are dozens of them in the book! For almost all rappels, a 50m rope will suffice although a 60 m rope is required on some of the more recent rappel stations. When there is an issue with rope length, it is spelled out in detail, e.g., the written information given on p. 79 and set off by a warning sign. Also the symbols "DC" and "WO" are used for down climb and walk-off. The issue of lengths of rappels is discussed on p. 12. Disclaimer: it is the climber's responsibility for employing safe rappel techniques and not that of the guidebook author.
Cheers,Rob.calm Jun 17, 2005
If you want to get technical.... Aug 11, 2005
Loveland, CO
«Hey Chris- The Solar Collector is a bit of a pain to find, super easy to miss while walking down the trail. If [you're walking] from the parking area below Ed's just walk past Holy Saturday, past the Land of the Rising Moon which will be up high on the right. After passing these just keep an eye out on the left side of the trail and you'll see it about 300 ft back. In Kelman's book he says it is adjacent to Turtle Rock Tower although I dont know quite what that is. Virgin's Crack is pretty cool but probably mungy since nobody goes out there.»
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chris:
I know the author of Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, WY and he, like you, is directionally challenged. Thats why he included GPS coordinates for climbs in the outlying areas so if he needed to go to them a second time, he wouldnt waste a lot of time trying to remember where they were. In fact, he is so challenged that he uses a GPS unit so he wont get lost trying to get back to his car.
So stop being so last century. Buy an iPod and a GPS unit and enjoy your walk to the Solar Collector and other outlying areas and arrive there with no problems.
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Wade Griffith of Boulder:
You say In Kelman's book he says it is adjacent to Turtle Rock Tower although I dont know quite what that is.
What a coincidence. A guy from Laramie named Wade Griffith did the beautiful and accurate illustrations in the book. In his drawing on p. 6, he shows the location of Turtle Rock Tower. Take a look at the illustration.
Also, in Rock Climbing at Vedauwoo, WY, it is not stated that Solar Collector is adjacent to Turtle Rock Tower. It states correctly, p. 31, To reach Solar Collector, take the Turtle Rock Loop Trail from the Holy Saturday Parking Lot. At a mile and a third, Turtle Rock Tower will be clearly visible on the right.
As Kelman explains on p.4, the name Turtle Rock has an ambiguous meaning because its use by climbers did not correspond to its appearance on the US Geological Survey Map (Sherman Mts. East Quadrangle Wyoming). Kelman clarifies this with a lucid explanation. Ive always found the guy to be a stickler for details, which not everybody appreciates, as it tends to make him a pain in the butt according to his climbing partners.
There are 3 references to Turtle Rock in the Index including a specific reference to Turtle Rock Tower. That might have helped you figure out what Turtle Rock Tower is (but it would require looking in the Index!). The unusually high quality of the Index stems from the fact that the author is a professional editor and the small company publishing the book did not place limitations found in the more mass produced guidebooks.
Cheers,
Rob.calm
_______________________________________________________
Tis better to have trad and failed then not to have trad at all.
P.S. Wade Griffith of Boulder, are you related to Wade Griffith of Laramie? Feb 6, 2006
Amen, lol. Apr 10, 2006
Fort Collins, CO
In the next edition, we hope that he uses the following distance measurements: angstroms, parsecs, barnes, light years, picometers, or other such nonsense. All this aside, we still couldn't find that dammmmed Parade Rock. Sep 4, 2006
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
This is not to say that I wouldn't sample the wide things...I just don't consider myself a connoisseur. Apr 2, 2007
If you enjoy short routes on sharp rock that will bruise your hands even if taped and cut your skin even if covered, then you won't be disappointed. Seriously though, lots of the stuff here is short so if you come looking for long routes or multipitch adventures this place has a limited number of climbs to offer. Think Joshua Tree (if you have ever been there) but with bigger crystals and more pure cracks per square mile. On the upside, this place is hard to beat for its main style of climbing: flared straight in overhanging cracks, and yes they come in every size. Apr 9, 2007
Tamarisk Clearing
And yes, if you come looking for long routes and multipitch adventures you might be disappointed. If you visit Yosemite looking for sweet limestone pockets, you will be equally bummed.
If you think testy, yet low-commitment crack battling in a timeless landscape of worn granite piles and pockets of high-plains aspen and evergreens sounds OK, you'll probably find your visit was worthwhile. Also user-friendly car-camping both free and paid, and you can't beat the highway access.
But yeah, keep that 4 Camalot on your butt. It'll probably come in handy at some point. Apr 10, 2007
Plymouth, NH; Lander, WY
Around Boulder, CO
Conifer, CO
Snohomish, WA
Kearney, NE
Are you talking about the large boulder right off the Turtle Rock trail, right by the parking lot below Walts Wall? If not this boulder, where is this boulder at? The Slabs is no area that I know of. Aug 28, 2007
Kearney, NE
I'm pretty sure I know which boulder you are talking about now. I have never heard of anyone doing that, though it may have been done. It is an obvious and beautiful line. The guy to ask about that would be Davin Bagdonas, who posts on this site under his name. Hope that helps. Aug 28, 2007
Kearney, NE
Apparently it's an old, seldom tried Todd Skinner "boulder" problem/project, V8 or harder. Nasty start!! Sep 1, 2007
Boulder
On another note, I am sensing a bit of hostility toward Vedauwoo locals with people assuming for the most part that we are just a host of mean characters. For the most part, this is false. Step up with some respect and you will get the same in return. If I contributed to this at all with the "some local" BS that was unintentional. The motivation for that was to not be labeled a horn blower, because sharing those problems was the point of adding them. I didn't just leave the FA field blank because I get sick of everyone assuming that someone from somewhere else put that stuff up. It's all about respect, really. May 22, 2008
Wyoming
boulder, co
Laramie,wy
Snohomish, WA
I was looking through a random book the other day, and it showed a picture of a train going through "Sherman" or maybe Sherman Pass or something near Vedauwoo with a great looking rock formation in the background. I've climbed at Vedauwoo quite a bit, but didn't recognize the formation, and I also can't really think of any formations where the train passes so close to the rock. Do any of you happen to know anything about it? I will try to scan and post the photo later today. Mar 2, 2009
Snohomish, WA
Snohomish, WA
Now, the reason such a sticker does not exist is because Vedauwoo lacks an advocacy organization. The Access Fund has been sufficient, as well as self-policing within an often disparate and pugilistic local scene. If you want to form one, I won't stop you, but I doubt many would join. It isn't necessary, so spending money on bumper stickers in lieu of tape or cams seems like a frivolous and unnecessary expense when a lot of us are already Access Fund members. Sep 2, 2009
Holderness, NH
Pinedale Wy/Golden Co
just sayin'. Jul 13, 2010
Cheyenne, WY
The routes you saw from MRC are on a feature called "Midsummer Wall." The arching crack is called "The Shortest Night" (9+), and the 3-bolt face which leads to the 7-ish crack is "What Fools..." (we were calling it 9, I guess).
Rob Kelman scoped this area out some time ago, and we installed the rap anchor early this summer. Thanks for checking it out. Oct 19, 2010
Loveland, CO
Rob.calm Oct 30, 2010
Pinedale, WY
Pinedale, WY
Pinedale, WY
As we all know, it'd be dumb to add a new area for one boulder. BUT, I am sure this boulder has been looked at before but can guarantee it's been unclimbed because the rock quality is horrible. The reason I'm putting this here is because I put a little work into it and under all the shit rock is good rock and it wasn't that hard to get off. If this got cleaned, it'd be a classic. So, if I can get a couple wishful thinkers like myself to get up to this and clean it, I think it'd be totally worth it. Apr 14, 2011
Spearfish, SD
Snohomish, WA
Bozeman, MT
Bozeman, MT
P.S. PLEASE pick up your trash and do a sweep of the area before you head on to another climb.
P.P.S. 700N is referred to as "Upper Devil's Playground," even though someone tried changing the name to "Limbo." Most of the information you'll find on the area is for bouldering. Aug 28, 2011
Sacramento, CA
Does anyone know which climb this is? It is a beautiful hand crack around the corner from Fall Wall (to the right/north-east). There are rap bolts at the top of the climb and there is a mixed (freshly bolted) face/crack climb that shares an anchor with this climb. A very fun climb! Felt like 5.9, very sustained crack. I can't find it anywhere in any of the guidebooks or online. Jun 5, 2012
WY
Lafayette, CO
Loveland, CO
rob.calm Sep 6, 2012
Does anyone have info on the state of the Vedauwoo campground, roads, bathrooms, etc.? I know the Routt-Medicine Bow National Forest staff are on furlough (according to their voice mail greeting), but are the roads closed with gates? Are the bathrooms locked? Is the campground available for use and accessible?
Thanks! Oct 2, 2013
Boulder, CO
fs.usda.gov/detail/mbr/aler…
Scroll down to the Laramie Ranger Dist. Info.
It appears all dirt roads are not closed to climbing and camping, just a few of them. May 27, 2014
Laramie, WY
Fort collins
Seattle and Eastrevy
Frisco, Co
Boulder, CO
Boulder, CO
Salt Lake City, UT
Boulder, CO
Taos, NM