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Routes in North Wall

Baked Buns S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bun in the Oven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Good to be a Gaper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Baked S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
High Tide S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Laas Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sundance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under Cooked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

Description

The North Wall is another steep sport wall in Big Chief. As with the rest of Big Chief, the rock is basalt. Here, the rock formed a little differently than further south, resulting in overhung shear slabs devoid of any holds, punctuated with broken parts. This usually results in steep, challenging, VERY sporty routes.

Everything is bolted, coldshuts are common and often old-looking, all routes all under 100 feet, and I would imagine you could lower off with a 50m rope. (not sure though)

The Oven is the inset part of the wall that contains some steep sporty routes. Can't really say i know why it got a different name.

Getting There

Approach time: ~20 minutes.

From the parking lot, head down the main path to the west, which consists of a former gravel road that has large trees cast through the center of it at the parking lot to ensure that people can no longer drive to the former lot.

After .6 miles of the gentle remnants of the dirt road, you will come to the former lot. From here head uphill for about 50 vertical feet on the narrowing trail to a fork. At the fork, you should head right, and this will take you up to the north pass.

Just over the north pass, hang a right and soon you will find yourself at the North Wall... the first two bolted routes are not overhung, but continue a little further to find yourself in the Oven.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at North Wall

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Half Baked
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Half Baked 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Sport
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