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Routes in North Wall

Baked Buns S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Bun in the Oven S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Climb Against Nature S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Good to be a Gaper S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Half Baked S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
High Tide S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Laas Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Sundance S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Sunshine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Under Cooked S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Joe Missick, Phil Kettnet, 1994
Page Views: 99 total · 1/month
Shared By: Aron Quiter on Sep 11, 2004
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

This is the second route from the left on The Oven, which heads up a very overhung slabby section that looks less overhung than it actually is.

DON'T be misled by Carville's book, as this route is NOT a .10a. It is .10a up to perhaps the second bolt. I "warmed up" on this route, and was a little more than warm by the time I got to the top.

The route heads up over three bulges to the top anchors, first gently moving to the right via a scary traverse move, and the back to the left at the top.

The climb looks and feels at lot like the route just to the left (High Tide) except for slightly easier. Climbing up to the last move is probably lower .11ish, until a very HARD last move sends you up to the top anchors.

At the top, this route and High Tide are pretty crowded.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor, which is shared with High Tide (5.11c).

Photos

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Aerili
Los Alamos, NM
Aerili   Los Alamos, NM
You must have been on the wrong route. Both Carville's guide and the Big Chief guide depict this route perfectly correctly in their drawings and bolt count, rated 10a or 10b (I vote 10a). Oct 19, 2011
anthony509 Excelsior
las vegas nv
  5.10a
anthony509 Excelsior   las vegas nv
  5.10a
agree with aerili. posted a picture of what I believe is the route.
Jun 18, 2013

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