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Routes in Oberman's Rock

Oberman's Crack T,TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Oberman's Rock Left Route TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b

Description

This severly overhung rock contains the harder climbing at Mt. Tamalpais, with high-end 5.10, and low-end 5.11 climbs existing.

You will find this area in the shade in the afternoon, and offers a 270 degree view stretching all accross the East Bay.

At only 20 feet in height, most routes contain only a few tough moves, and a final pull around the final roof. You can simply walk off all routes.

Setting up a top rope on the top of Oberman's Rock requires a long sling (~30'), or several larger friends in the 3" range. There is also an old bolt anchor in the top of the rock, though it appears to be a 1/4" bolt that does not seem to be safe.
Park closed nightly from sunset to 7:00 am Details

Getting There

Approach time: 10 - 20 minutes

From the parking lot, head .3 miles up the plank trail to just below the lookout tower. Instead of going right up the finished stone path to the observation tower, continue along the trail to the south.

Oberman's Rock will come into view shortly, it being the only severly overhung rock that is large enough to be more than a boulder problem.

About 25 yards later, there will be a narrow trail heading sharply downhill, which will take you to Oberman's rock.

Access to the top of Oberman's rock is around the right side of the rock using a simple rocky trail.

Passing Oberman's rock will also take you to The Leaning Tower, and further along the same path lies The Southern Formation.

2 Total Climbs

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Photos

More tourist in the area than expected. Not a quite place. A number of deep jugs are available on the left side of the center line on the stone. As easy as 5-10A moving up in ratings as holds are taken off. The direct route (center line) was in the 5-11 range with the right side (off face) being easier yet. If you miss a hold and fall...enjoy the swing and start over!

One anchor was bolted on top (questionable)of the stone. We used 50 - 75 feet of sling to set anchors. Jul 16, 2003

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