Access Issue: Park closed nightly from sunset to 7:00 am Details

Description

Located high above the North Bay, Mt. Tamalpais was once the site of an old hotel. While the hotel is gone, an observation tower remains on the East peak, and is surrounded by jagged volcanic rock that holds some interesting climbing.

Containing mostly easier climbs (5.3 - 5.11b), Mt. Tamalpais is a great place to teach someone how to climb, set up a top rope, or a great place for a first trad lead.

The climbing primarily faces east, and offers incredible views of the rest of the bay area. Because of it's direction, you will find most of the climbing in the shade in the afternoon. If you're going to be there a while, don't forget to head up to the observation tower for an incredible Pacific sunset.

Due to the rugged nature of the rock, it's probably best to either walk off most climbs, or to rappell from the top.

Depending on the day, you may have to pay $8 to park in the park, but then again, you might not.

Always check the Mount Tamalpais State Park website for current information.

Getting There

From the 101 North of San Francisco, exit the freeway and head north on the 1 towards Stinson Beach. A short while later, hang a left on Shoreline, until a fork in the road. At the fork, head left on Panormic Highway, which will also have a sign stating the correct direction to get to Mt. Tamalpais. Stay on Panoramic until you see yet another sign on the road, telling you to got right on Pantoll road.

Head 1.4 miles up Pantoll road, and then head right on East Ridgecrest Blvd, once again following the signs to Mt. Tamalpia's East Summit. The parking lot will be at the end of the road, 2.8 miles later.

All climbing is accessed via the Plank trail, which will have a sign stating .3 miles to the observation tower.

53 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Mount Tamalpais

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
V2-3 5+
 4
Bootjack Arete
Boulder
V4 6B
 10
Intuition
Boulder
V4 6B
 4
Scenic Cruise
Boulder
V4 6B
 6
Target Practice
Boulder
V5 6C
 5
Snake Charmer
Boulder
V7 7A+
 3
Bonum Vitae
Boulder
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 8
Up to the Giant Eastern Flake
Trad, TR
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
 7
East Ridge
TR
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 12
Equinox
TR
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
 15
Southeastern Arete
Trad, TR
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 10
Eastern Face
TR
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Bootjack Arete Mt Tam Boulders > Bootjack Boulder
 4
V2-3 5+ Boulder
Intuition Mt Tam Boulders > Bootjack Boulder
 10
V4 6B Boulder
Scenic Cruise Mt Tam Boulders > Bay View Boulder
 4
V4 6B Boulder
Target Practice Mt Tam Boulders > ATF Boulder
 6
V4 6B Boulder
Snake Charmer Mt Tam Boulders > ATF Boulder
 5
V5 6C Boulder
Bonum Vitae Mt Tam Boulders > Ravine Boulder
 3
V7 7A+ Boulder
Up to the Giant Eastern Flake Northern Formation, The
 8
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Trad, TR
East Ridge Northern Formation, The
 7
5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c TR
Equinox Northern Formation, The
 12
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c TR
Southeastern Arete Leaning Tower, The
 15
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R Trad, TR
Eastern Face Leaning Tower, The
 10
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b TR
More Classic Climbs in Mount Tamalpais »

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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
Parking is now $8. The description should be updated to reflect this. Still fun climbing with a fantastic view. Jun 1, 2010
Stuck me a #8 BD nut in the The Leaning Tower. If anyone grabs it it'd be great to get it back (I'd pay for shipping). Thanks :D Dec 29, 2011