PRINT: Rock Climbing in Yin and Yang Cliff, Red Rocks

Yin and Yang Cliff

Nevada > Southern Nevada > Red Rocks > Calico Basin > Kraft Mtn Area

Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm, the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby.

HUMAN WASTE Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council and the AAC provides free "wag bags" in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking area).

Description

This miniature (35') crag has two nice cracks. The routes get morning sun and afternoon shade.

Getting There

Follow a trail around the left side of Kraft Mtn. After 20 minutes you'll reach a distinct notch; the crag is 100 yards further downhill on the right. The trail takes you to the back of crag from where Yang and Yang is. Take the trail from the trailhead 1.07 miles from there you'll see the crag on the right.

Routes from Left to Right

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 35 ● Miniwanka Trad
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a 11 ● Sport Wanker Extraordinaire Trad
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 95 ● Shortwank Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 46 ● Bigwank Trad
5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a 6 ● Mamma got wanked Trad, TR
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c 590 ● Yin and Yang Trad
5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X 61 ● Zoroaster Trad
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 653 ● Atman Trad
5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b 31 ● Budda's Corner Trad
5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b 18 ● Renewal Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R 1 ● Boxing Day Trad

● Miniwanka

5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Sport Wanker Extraordinaire

5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Trad

● Shortwank

5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Trad

● Bigwank

5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Trad

● Mamma got wanked

5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a Trad, TR

● Yin and Yang

590

5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Trad

● Zoroaster

5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b X Trad

● Atman

653

5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Trad

● Budda's Corner

5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b Trad

● Renewal

5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Trad

● Boxing Day

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R Trad

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Flailing on Yin Yang

A print quality letter regarding the Atman bolting situation. The entire thread can be found under forums on this site.

Yin and Yang Cliff

Iconic Yin and Yang cliff. Featuring Yin and Yang (left) and Atman (right).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

10b4me

Although the two climbs here are good, they're not really worth the hike, especially if you've ever climbed in IC. Mar 31, 2004

J. Thompson
denver, co

Not really sure why you'd say that...it's a 15 minute, easy hike...... Apr 28, 2005

beny

Some more info: as of Jan 07, almost all of the routes at this formation have anchors. The only exceptions would be the two wide cracks on the west side (.9, .11). Also, theres a sport route just right of Atman that checks in about .11-. Beware, the bolts are glue-ins and it looks like someomes first attempt with them. Jan 28, 2007

Jason D. Martin

Was up at Yin Yang today... I don't know who put in the glue-ins but they look a little sketchy. There are globs of phlem yellow glue hanging out of the bolt holes. There is no doubt in my mind that this was someone's first attempt at glue-ins. Too bad they had to experiment at such a nice little area.

I'd suggest backing up these bolts for awhile until we see whether the installer knew what he was doing or not...

Jason Feb 18, 2007

Cunning Linguist

This cliff has recieved an unneccessary "makeover" recently. I counted fourteen bolts on this cliff a couple of months ago, and this is before the lead bolts went in on the "sport routes". These were existing, already established toprope routes with solid, accessible gear anchors. The idea was that anyone climbing at this cliff had gear with them, as this is a traditional, bolt-free trad cliff. Someone decided to change that, I'm sure in some kind of public service oriented spirit, but seeing a botched, sticking 2/3 out glue in three inches from the crack I've plugged cams into for two years, on a 30' cliff with a one minute walkoff, just sickens me. It's not progress, the word from the rangers is that it's totally illegal to bolt on that cliff, and my feeling on it is that the sooner those things make their way to join disco in the dustbin of history, the better. If you chop these botched bolts, let me know and I'll buy the beers at Tenaya Creek to celebrate. If I had the gear to do it correctly myself, they'd already be gone. Hatemail and/or support to Killischoward@hotmail.com. Mar 7, 2007

Jason D. Martin

The bolts have been removed. See the anonymous letter submitted by Todd.

Jason Mar 8, 2007

Jon OBrien
Nevada

Thanks for chopping them and cleaning them up! I did Ying and Yang saturday and we didn't see evidence leftover... Good work! Apr 22, 2009

Petsfed 00
Snohomish, WA

The best parking area to get to Yin and Yang cliff is the one at the very end of Sandstone Drive, and from there, it really is a 15 minute hike. Mar 24, 2011

Gregory Climber

Thanks to LVCLC volunteers, the old chop job at this cliff no longer has grey glue evidence. The glue was removed in an attempt to camouflage the old illegal bolt holes. The holes were then filled and red sand/rock placed on top. It looks a lot better than it did. Thanks for the donated time gentlemen! Oct 17, 2013

Mark Thomas
Broomfield, CO

Although the routes are short and there is a bit of a hike to reach this crag, the routes are very high quality and allow easy top-roping, mock leading, and leading from 5.7 to 5.11, thin cracks to chimney. IMO, the hike is a nice warmup & scenic, and it keeps this crag very quiet. It is a great place to practice while getting away from the crowds. An approach scramble up and over Kraft Mountain makes it even more fun. Jan 31, 2016

Keith Boone
Henderson, NV

If your climbing at your limit or top rope soloing every route up here can be top roped with some creativity and 50 ft of static cord. Every route up here is quality minus a little choss on the north side. Dec 31, 2018

Luke Dixon
Leavenworth, WA

Great two routes, taught a friend here how to crack climb. No crowds and afternoon shade on a hot Friday. You can certainly build top rope anchors for many of the routes with some creativity and lots of cord. There is an easy walk up on the south side of the formation. Nov 14, 2020

Harris Kashtan

When approaching on the trail, the climbs are actually hidden from view (on the opposite side of the cliff) so what you are seeing is the walk off. Walk through the distinct notch and then keep your eyes open for the cliff on your right. Apr 18, 2023