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Williamson Rock

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Williamson Rock Rock Climbing 


Photos:  Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 6,700'
Location: 34.3635, -117.8797 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 15,369
Administrators: jt512, M.Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer, Justin Johnsen, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: jt512 on Mar 19, 2007  with updates from Benjamin Chapman
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Chris Owen on the Freezer Burn Wall long before it...

Williamson Rock is currently closed to climbing. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Williamson Rock was Southern California's premier sport climbing area until its closure in December 2005. The area features nearly 300 quality routes of all grades from beginner to expert level on highly featured granite. Located in the Angeles National Forest in the San Gabriel Mountains, an hours drive from the city of La Canada, north of Los Angeles, on Highway 2, or 1/2 hour from Wrightwood, if driving from the east.

Prior to its closure in December 2005, in order to protect the dwindling population of the Mountain Yellow Legged Frog (MYLF), Williamson Rock was Southern California's most popular sport crag, and there is a new USFS proposal to reopen the crag in August 2016, from August 1st through November 15, under a Visitor Use Permit system. Williamson Rock is a summer climbing destination, offering quality routes from 5.6 - 5.13, in a beautiful mountain setting, located at 7,000 feet elevation.

The climbing at Williamson Rock can be characterized by technical, often strenuous movements requiring good core strength, body english, creative technique, and endurance to succeed. One should be a competent leader, as there are few opportunities to setup top-ropes without leading. As evidenced by the occasional old rusted bolt and hanger, climbing took place at Williamson Rock in the 1960s, but the development of modern sport climbing began in 1987, and Williamson Rock realized its true potential in the mid-90s with route development by Troy Mayr, Sam Owings, Kevin Mokracek, Jack Marshall, and others. For most routes 8 - 12 quickdraws is sufficient to enjoy the often steep, exciting, and exposed climbing at Williamson Rock.

Getting There 

Follow the climber's trail from the Williamson Rock parking lot, located about 1/4 mi. east of the Eagles Roost picnic area on SR 2 (Angeles Crest Highway). The approach takes about 15 minutes.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.2 miles from here

75 Total Climbing Routes

['4 Stars',4],['3 Stars',23],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',29],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',3],['5.8',4],['5.9',4],['5.10',22],['5.11',26],['5.12',8],['5.13',3],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

Classic Climbing Routes in Williamson Rock

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes for Williamson Rock:
Being There   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 3 pitches, 200'   Eagles Roost Buttress
Mushroom   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 1 pitch, 30'   Mushroom Boulder
Dancing in the Storm   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 2 pitches, 200'   Eagles Roost Buttress
Dream Speed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 1 pitch   London Wall
The Labyrinth   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   London Wall
Browse More Rock Climbing Classics in Williamson Rock

Featured Route For Williamson Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: The start of The Labryinth

The Labyrinth 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a  CA : Los Angeles Basin : ... : London Wall
Originally bolted in 1990 an extension with a second seperate set of anchors was added in 2002. Long, sustained and powerful this route requires good core strength and the ability to pull down hard with good technique. Starting on a short slabby ramp to steep overhanging terrain on good flakes, crimpers and jugs to a short rest at the first set of anchors. Continue on for three more bolts on scary flakes to the second anchor....[more]   Browse More Classics in CA

Photos of Williamson Rock Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: This was taken in 1984 way above the Voices Wall. ...
This was taken in 1984 way above the Voices Wall. ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Williamson Rock viewed from Angeles Crest Hwy
BETA PHOTO: Williamson Rock viewed from Angeles Crest Hwy
Rock Climbing Photo: Williamson FA notes
Williamson FA notes
Rock Climbing Photo: Williamson Rock
Williamson Rock
Rock Climbing Photo: Original route notes from FA's at Williamson
Original route notes from FA's at Williamson
Rock Climbing Photo: 1980's pre-bolting, up Wedding March slab and into...
1980's pre-bolting, up Wedding March slab and into...
Rock Climbing Photo: Our Lord's Candle (Hesperoyucca whipplei), Angeles...
Our Lord's Candle (Hesperoyucca whipplei), Angeles...
Rock Climbing Photo: Jay Tanzman on Hellraiser.
Jay Tanzman on Hellraiser.
Rock Climbing Photo: Original FA notes
Original FA notes
Rock Climbing Photo: Don't Look at Me! (5.10a) at the Blue Velvet Buttr...
Don't Look at Me! (5.10a) at the Blue Velvet Buttr...
Rock Climbing Photo: List of ice climbs I had done at Williamson. Found...
List of ice climbs I had done at Williamson. Found...
Rock Climbing Photo: Williamson Rock Guidebook by Troy Mayr & Anthony S...
Williamson Rock Guidebook by Troy Mayr & Anthony S...
Rock Climbing Photo: A climber nears the anchors on Industrial Disease ...
A climber nears the anchors on Industrial Disease ...
Rock Climbing Photo: Tom Gilje high above it all, Williamson Rock. Phot...
Tom Gilje high above it all, Williamson Rock. Phot...
Rock Climbing Photo: Chuck on The Hired Gun (5.11a), Williamson Rock
Chuck on The Hired Gun (5.11a), Williamson Rock

Comments on Williamson Rock Add Comment
Show which comments
By Eric Holden
From: Temecula, CA
Jul 25, 2011
Went out there a few days ago. Just went off a guide book and didn't know about the closure. Only one small sign near trailhead mentioned it being closed. We called the forest department and spoke with them. When asked when it might reopen they told us no time soon.
By Brian Chastain
Mar 7, 2013
2 more years. I would like to hope the climbing community can band together to put up a legitimate fight this time around.
By Chris Owen
Administrator
From: Big Bear Lake
May 2, 2013
I wonder if the luminaries who closed this area understood that other crags hereabouts (SoCal) would be adversely impacted? Scientists tend to wear blinkers.

Holcomb Valley Pinnacles comes to mind.

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