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Mr. Jimmy
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack S,TR 
Chimichonga S 
Don't Mess with the Bull S 
Luscious Babes S 
Off Web T,TR 
Piss Ant S 
Screamery T 
Spiders From Mars S 
Stinger Direct S 
Unknown 5.10A S 
Venom S 
Voice, The T 
Which Side Are You On? S 
Unsorted Routes:

Venom 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch
Original:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Eric Ulner '91
Page Views: 3,888
Submitted By: Coleman M on Nov 25, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (75)
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Venom

Description 

The physical crux is down low, but the mental crux is the upper slab. Pull a couple easy moves to the crux. Pull over the lip to super thin and technical slab climbing at it's finest.

Location 

twenty feet right of Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack

Protection 

Around five bolts.


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Venom

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By Chris Prewitt
Nov 6, 2009

FA: Eric Ulner '91
By Tradoholic
Nov 28, 2010
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

This is a classic technical slab!
By Chris Gottlieb
Jun 7, 2013

I would argue that this is the best .10a at Jackson, probably the best .10a that I have ever been on!
By ATX
Aug 31, 2015

Sandbagged! The feet are poor at the second bolt; falling guarantees a deck. Once you're over the roof (10d?), the hands disappear and there are no feet (11a?). Every single move on Venom was at least 5.10d. FWIW, I fell twice on this route, yet onsighted:
The Reckoning (5.12a)
Wild at Heart (11b)
Barbarians at the Gate (12a)
Blue Velvet (11+)
The Drifter (11a)
Yuppie with a Gun (11a)
Piss Ant (11b), &
Stinger Direct (11a/b)

In general, Jackson Falls grading seems arbitrary; for example, how is the completely horizontal roof route Who Let the Snakes Out a 5.10b?

Overall, enjoyed the climbing, but the grading was generally arbitrary.
By Daniel Hogan
Dec 28, 2015

great climb. took a while to get the send. the upper slab is where i had the most problems. so glad to have checked this in my guide book!

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