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Venom

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 3.5 from 176 votes
FA: Eric Ulner '91
Illinois > Jackson Falls > A. N Canyon > A. Mr. Jimmy

Description

The physical crux is down low, but the mental crux is the upper slab. Pull a couple easy moves to the crux. Pull over the lip to super thin and technical slab climbing at it's finest.

Location

twenty feet right of Big Wall Greg's Chicken Shack

Protection

Around five bolts.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Chris Prewitt
Tucson, AZ
[Hide Comment] FA: Eric Ulner '91 Nov 6, 2009
Tradiban
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] This is a classic technical slab! Nov 28, 2010
ATX
[Hide Comment] Sandbagged! The feet are poor at the second bolt; falling guarantees a deck. Once you're over the roof (10d?), the hands disappear and there are no feet (11a?). Every single move on Venom was at least 5.10d. FWIW, I fell twice on this route, yet onsighted:
The Reckoning (5.12a)
Wild at Heart (11b)
Barbarians at the Gate (12a)
Blue Velvet (11+)
The Drifter (11a)
Yuppie with a Gun (11a)
Piss Ant (11b), &
Stinger Direct (11a/b)

In general, Jackson Falls grading seems arbitrary; for example, how is the completely horizontal roof route Who Let the Snakes Out a 5.10b?

Overall, enjoyed the climbing, but the grading was generally arbitrary. Aug 31, 2015
Daniel Hogan
 
[Hide Comment] great climb. took a while to get the send. the upper slab is where i had the most problems. so glad to have checked this in my guide book! Dec 28, 2015
Brian Stephens
Boise, ID
 
[Hide Comment] This is a solid 10a, but it can highly technical and a little bit of beta can go a long way. This would be the ideal route for someone trying to hone their technical skills instead of just powering through all the climbs. A definite So. Ill. classic. Apr 1, 2018
Chris Votaw
Georgetown, KY
[Hide Comment] ATX with the biggest spray I've seen in my life Feb 9, 2020
Lauren Errichiello
Milwaukee, WI
  5.10- PG13
[Hide Comment] Awesome slab route that I highly recommend! If you like slab climbs that is. However I would say you should be comfortable at the grade because bolts 3 to 4 are runout to a pretty extreme amount, hence why I give it a PG13 rating. I will say that it the climb is fair for the grade (saying that with a lot of slab experience) but might feel more difficult if you don’t trust your feet on slab. Sep 30, 2022
Emma Campbell
Madison, WI
[Hide Comment] Great first 5.10 to lead outside. Some of the moves are a bit committing feeing but will go if you trust your feet Apr 9, 2024