This sharp peak at the north end of the "high horns of the Organs" is a beautiful piece of stone. It towers above the low-horns and provides a spectacular view northward, over the the aforementioned horns and across the Rabbit Ears group. Most of the recorded routes are on the northern faces, which are slabby and cool, getting a good deal of shade throughout the day. The north facing aspect also means a fair share of lichen, which detracts somewhat from the climbing. Perhaps if the routes were climbed more frequently, this would clean up, but it appears that this peak is not as often climbed as it once was back in the days of the Southwest Mountaineers Club.
The approach mainly consists of getting to the saddle between The Spire and Low Horn #6. This can be accomplished from either direction;
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Spire:
North Face Direct 5.7 Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet
Featured Route For The Spire
North Face Direct 5.7 NM : Organ Mountains : The Spire
This is the route called "NW Face Direct" in Ingraham's guide. It doesn't feel like a NW face though, you can really only see out to the east, and checking maps and compasses confirms that this is more of a North Face route.The route meanders a bit through natural weaknesses and the first two pitches are not all that exciting. However the higher up you get, the better the rock gets and the bolder the climbing. The last pitch is on beautiful clean upper slabs, and must have been a very bold first...[more] Browse More Classics in NM