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Routes in The Spire

Normal Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
North Face Direct T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
South Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Hobson, Jon Tylka, Marta Reece: June 4, 2011
Page Views: 274 total, 3/month
Shared By: Aaron Hobson on Jun 8, 2011
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Placement of bolts/fixed anchors is prohibited in Wilderness Study Areas Details

Description

A simple and direct route up the Spire's steep southern face. We found this route in order to ascend the Spire after rappelling Razorback. The first pitch is up discontinuous cracks for about 50 ft. Then head right for an airy traverse out (5.7). The traverse can be either a hand-traverse, or balancy foot-ledge, either way being exciting. After the short traverse a large ledge is gained.

The second pitch heads directly up from the back of the ledge, starting with a thin lay-back crack. this layback is the crux 5.8 moves, and it is possible to avoid it by bypassing the large block to the right. Above the layback is another ledge and then a left-leaning crack underneath a large summit block. the rock underneath the summit block is a little crumbly, and there are some large detached rocks to be careful around.

Location

The start of the climb is on the west side of the saddle between Razorback and The Spire. A lone tree about 100 ft down from the saddle marks a ledge. the left side of this ledge is where we started the climb up the discontinuous cracks.

Protection

Light rock rack. We brought a set of nuts and Camelots # 1-3. No fixed gear was found (or left) anywhere on the route).

Photos

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