Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
The Hamlet

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone  S 
Guildenstern S 
Madness and the Method, The TR 
Moni's Money TR 
Perchance to Dream S 
Play's the Thing, The S,TR 
Rest is Silence , The TR 
Rosencrantz S 
Sea of Troubles S 
Sweets to the Sweet S 
To Grunt and Sweat S 
Undiscovered Country  TR 
What Dreams May Come  TR 
When the Blood Burns  TR 

The Hamlet 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Location: 36.15044, -115.4309 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 14,427
Administrators: Larry DeAngelo, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Eric-D on Mar 9, 2008
Forecast:
You & This Area
Best routes for YOU in this area
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
these?

Description 

William Shakespeare wrote a play filled with some of the best potential route names of perhaps any work written in the English language. And thus one of the newest editions to crags in Red Rock Canyon is called, The Hamlet.

The Hamlet is a great wall with a variety of moderate routes that range between 5.5 and 5.10. There are four sport routes and five topropes found here.

The wall is comprised of two tiers. The upper tier is where you will find the sport climbing. Most of the topropes are on the lower tier.

From left to right, the routes are as follows.

1) The Play's the Thing (5.5) 3bs -- Upper Tier Far Left. Can be TRed by climbing up the zig zag ramp.

2) Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone (5.7) 8bs -- First route right of the arch. Upper Tier.

3) Sweets to the Sweet (5.7) 8bs -- Found immediately right of Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone.

4) When the Blood Burns (5.10a) TR Only -- Found to the right of Sweets to the Sweet. Climb through a pumpy roof to easier terrain above.

5) Sea of Troubles (5.9) 9bs -- Coolest route on the upper tier. Start in the chimney and climb through a crimpy bulge to easier climbing above. At the crux, clip the bottom link of the chain to protect from a ledge fall.

6) Undiscovered Country (5.7) TR Only -- First route on the left side of the lower tier.

7) What Dreams May Come (5.6) TR Only -- Second route on the lower tier.

8) The Madness and the Method (5.8) TR Only -- Third route on the lower tier.

9) The Rest is Silence (5.8) TR Only -- Fourth Route on the lower tier.

WARNING!

These routes are new and have only been climbed a handful of times. Wear a helmet and watch out for rock fall. When TRing stand way out of the way. There are still some loose blocks on the wall. It is recommended that those TRing the lower tier stand well out of the way. There is a good stance just uphill of the bottom of the routes.


Getting There 

This wall is between the Ultraman and the Panty Wall.


Climbing Season


14 Total Routes


['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',0],['2 Stars',13],['1 Star',1],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',4],['5.7',3],['5.8',5],['5.9',1],['5.10',1],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for The Hamlet:
Rosencrantz   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 85'   
Sweets to the Sweet   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone    5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Sport, 1 pitch, 90'   
The Madness and the Method   5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
To Grunt and Sweat   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 60'   
Perchance to Dream   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Sport, 90'   
Moni's Money   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
Sea of Troubles   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 75'   
When the Blood Burns    5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     TR   
Browse More Classics in The Hamlet

Featured Route For The Hamlet
Easy climbing but good exposure!

Rosencrantz 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b  NV : Red Rock : ... : The Hamlet
This is a fun route, similar in style to the other sport routes at the Hamlet. Similarly, it is bolted for someone leading the grade. It's pretty juggy through the steeper part, to a slabby topout....[more]   Browse More Classics in NV

Photos of The Hamlet Slideshow Add Photo
Lower tier of The Hamlet, climber moving up "The Madness and the Method", the best climb on the lower tier in my opinion.
Lower tier of The Hamlet, climber moving up "The M...
The corridor in The Hamlet Upper Tier, with routes "To Grunt and Sweat", "Perchance to Dream", and "Sea of Troubles" (all on the left wall).
BETA PHOTO: The corridor in The Hamlet Upper Tier, with routes...
Watching a climber on "Sea of Troubles" on the upper tier of The Hamlet.  This spot is only a few yards away and at eye level with the crux of the route.
Watching a climber on "Sea of Troubles" on the upp...
Dave gearing up and ready to teach me how to climb. Hamlet is by far one of the best training walls in Red Rock.
Dave gearing up and ready to teach me how to climb...
Wider view of The Hamlet.  Upper Tier with climber at top of "Sweets to the Sweet", and Lower Tier with climber on "The Madness and the Method".
Wider view of The Hamlet. Upper Tier with climber...
Overview of the Hamlet
Overview of the Hamlet
Mr. Lego Guy working a route.
Mr. Lego Guy working a route.
End of a nice and easy approach to Hamlet. Dave is leading the way.
End of a nice and easy approach to Hamlet. Dave is...
The upper section of The Hamlet
The upper section of The Hamlet
Dave rapin down off Sweets To The Sweet.
Dave rapin down off Sweets To The Sweet.
whats this?
whats this?
Routes in Upper Tier - left to right - "To Grunt and Sweat", "Perchance to Dream", "Sea of Troubles" as of 4/11/2013.
BETA PHOTO: Routes in Upper Tier - left to right - "To Grunt a...
Comments on The Hamlet Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Nov 29, 2013
By Christine Gal
From: lake forest, il
Jan 12, 2009

Hamlet is a great place when just starting to lead sport climbs.

Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone and Sweets to the Sweet were really nice climbs with good holds and variety (in rock and direction of route) to make them very interesting.

  • * but lots of loose rock, both on the wall and off, watch your step and wear your helmet!

By Brian Foster
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 11, 2009

5.7 TR on lower tier (undiscovered country) one of anchor bolts is EXTREMELY loose it moved all around and in and out about 3/4's of an inch.

By smassey
From: CO
Oct 23, 2009

Thanks for the heads-up, Brian. That bolt has been pulled. It'll get replaced eventually. If folks are still interested in TRing this, just bring some more sling material and it can be equalized with one of the other anchors.
Also, the left anchor bolt on Sweets is a tad bit wiggly. It'll get replaced when I have time, but just a heads-up.
scott

By OliverS
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 31, 2009

I think the grade on 'When the Blood Burns' is a bit high. Even with that small initial roof, I wouldn't give it more than a 5.8+.

By Thomas Beck
From: Las Vegas, Nevada
Feb 12, 2010

i agree with Oliver; maybe 8+

By Richard Denker
From: Portland OR
May 4, 2010

Found this cliff when we were literally blown off Ultraman. Did not know what the climbs were or their ratings but climbed three of them (in the order we climbed them) The Play's the Thing, Sweets to the Sweet and Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone. We rated them 5.4, 5.6 & 5.6 (resp.) with Frailty Thy Name is Sandstone being slightly easier then Sweets to the Sweet. Nice wall for first time leads, or to begin/end a day of climbing. We did not find feeble or lose rock on those routes.

By smassey
From: CO
Mar 4, 2011

Sometime in the madness of the last month or so, the wiggly anchor bolt on Sweets was replaced with an ASCA 1/2x2.75 SS. Oh yeah, and that TR bolt was replaced about a year ago, but I forgot to write it up. as if anyone reads this anyway...

By Zappatista
May 27, 2011

This cliff has cruddy rock. I can see where the meetup-types would congregate here due to the easy grades and amount of routes, but I gotta be honest-this cliff has very little to offer any climber not interested in a crowded beginner scene. And if you've got a beginner wanting to do a first bolted lead-wouldn't you want it to be at a place with even mildly dependable rock?

As an aside, knowing that pretty much any hold on the wall could be ripped off or kicked down by someone with the inclination, how solid do you think bolts in this crumbly wonder are? Only a year or two old and needing bolt replacement? Even soft cliffs like Cut Your Teeth Crag are holding up better than that. Spend your time at Willow Springs if you're newby-dragging. Way more pleasant afternoon diversion. I can appreciate new route development, but this place is poo.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jun 13, 2011

The Hamlet has probably the lowest quality rock of any popular cliff in the Calico Hills. This isnt to say the climbing isnt good or that its dangerous, but it is not good rock. Scott and I bolted a route there and were going to bolt a second, but the entire chunk of rock that comprises the top 20' of the lower tier routes is hollow and not safe for pro bolts (hence the TR routes).

In terms of the bolts- I do think that if this cliff survives as a popular crag long-term, glue-ins will be the only viable option.

Again, I think the cliff has pleasant climbing and is a good option for those who are new, but in terms of rock quality, it is fair to poor.

By Zappatista
Jun 29, 2011

This is funny shit. I'd like to add that I did the new routes on the right side of the wall (mainly because I was curious about where the mussy hooks and double ring hangers might have originated from), and thought they were pretty mellow in tennis shoes, and probably should be rated substantially lower. Now I've had enough of that wall and you guys can fight it out, I'm going to go climb good rock-we do have quite a bit of that here in Red Rock.

By Eric-D
From: Las Vegas, nv
Aug 25, 2011

Routes are now organized left to right beginning with the upper tier (The Plays The Thing to Guildenstern)and then the lower tier (Undiscovered Country to The Rest is Silence).

By smassey
From: CO
Sep 4, 2011

This is all pretty funny! I'm always worried about rock quality at the Hamlet, both macro and micro, when I climb there. It's kind of a chossy crag, but it's fun beginner climbing, and it serves a purpose. Obviously the approach to my new routes is more dangerous than the routes themselves - climbers should use their judgement on whether to rope up before they get to the line of bolts. Killis, my routes were put up with a legitimate hardware source, but thanks for climbin' them and makin' sure I'm being honest... In terms of grading, I feel like their grades are in line with the rest of the Hamlet - I put them up in my tennies. Some folks will like them, many won't. Whatever.

By Vegas_Chris
Sep 6, 2011

6) Undiscovered Country (5.7) TR Only -- First route on the left side of the lower tier.

7) What Dreams May Come (5.6) TR Only -- Second route on the lower tier.

The anchors for both of these routes have one loose bolt. I am not aware of who manages these but if you could direct this comment to them and also please respond so that I know in the future.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Sep 6, 2011

Chris- thanks for the heads up. We'll get out there at some point soon and have a look. You should know, though, that those particular bolts even if not tightened completely are extremely unlikely to pull out under TR loads that are sheer to the bolt itself.

We'll have a look this fall. It may be time to re-evaluate the bolt type used at the Hamlet.

By Vegas_Chris
Sep 7, 2011

Thanks for the quick response John. For one of them it was just the anchor that could swivel around the bolt.

And thanks for checking into it!

By Mostafa
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 29, 2012

Is there a new multipitch on the far right of Hamlet? I saw some people doing a route there today.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2012

Mostafa- that was Guildenstern, a 1 pitch 5.5 on the far right of the Hamlet. Not multipitch, however, you may want to belay the traverse to the anchor at the base of the pitch, as its a bit exposed.

By EnFuego
From: Seal Beach, Ca
Apr 23, 2012

Was at the Hamlet Wall on April 20, 2012. Upper tier seems to bea good place to take aspiring lead climbers. Rock, for the most part, is pretty clean. One loose toaster size block was cleaned off by a different party. We climbed all routes and everything seemed pretty solid.
However - there are still two spinners (loose hangers) on two different top rope routes on the lower tier. I'm not sure of the names, but if you're on top of second tier, the two routes furthest right (the first ones you reach) as you're looking down, each of the two right most routes have a loose anchor.

By tom and laurie allard
Jun 27, 2012

on 6-27-12 at 9am saw a young diamondback on the wall just above the roof on the 5.10, keep your eyes open friends.

By Edward Pyune
From: Las Vegas, NV
Oct 31, 2012

Perfect place to take new climbers as an alternative to Panty Wall, which is always crowded.

By MN norske
From: Henderson
Dec 7, 2012

Two new routes up in the chimney. Between when the blood burns (5.10a) and sea of troubles (5.9). One by the sea of troubles felt like a 5.8+ and the one to the left 5.9. These are nice easy climbs and a bit runout. They are still some flaking off some rock during climbing so have your belayer wear a helmet.

By Dan G.
Apr 9, 2013

Some anchors at lower tier (What Dreams May Come) are still bad, and they don't just spin. The bolt heads wiggle a bit. Sketch.

By Zappatista
Apr 10, 2013

^^^^Impossible. The rock is super solid and the first ascentionists discriminating about where bolts and routes themselves are placed.

Sarcasm, for those who didn't catch that.

By Karen Nielson
From: West Lafayette, Indiana
Jun 3, 2013

This is the best place I have ever seen for teaching someone how to lead. You can solo climb with them up route #1 and make sure they are not back clipping and there is a great ledge at the top to stand while you practice clipping into the chains and cleaning a route. The other routes can be fun too.

By David MacKenzie
From: Albuquerque
Sep 10, 2013

To get to this wall (specifically the upper tier), look for the large incut arch on the way to panty wall. While this wall is between panty wall and ultraman wall, it's somewhat significantly downslope of each.

By Matt1NV
Nov 29, 2013

Does anyone know the three bolted sport routes to the left on the lower tier? Have not been here in awhile, noticed them yesterday for the first time.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 29, 2013

Those are listed at the 'J' Wall in the First Pullout section. They really should be part of the Hamlet section, but someone thought otherwise.