South Ridge [better known as Chase the Sun]  5.4

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Type:  Trad Consensus:  5.4 [details] FA:  unknown Submitted By:  Guy H. on May 5, 2002 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (16) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

the 5.4 ridge of chase the sun...

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Description 

Roach lists this climb as a "F5" flatiron classic. There is some good climbing on this ridge. Your second should be solid due to a few exposed notches that must be down climbed.

From the approach trail between the 1st and 2nd, follow the a faint climber's trail that leads to the west. The first rock you bump into is Sunset. Follow the trail to the lowest point, passing one false ridge line.

P1: Start 10ft up hill for the lowest point on the ridge, angle to the left and gain the ridge line. Follow fun slab climbing past a notch and then a pine tree leaning up against the rock to a belay in the 2nd notch. (5.3, ~180ft)

P2: Crux pitch. Down climb the notch and gain a runout groove. Climb up to the right leaning roof system and place a small TCU. The easiest way over this obstacle is to down climb from the roof and gain the rib near a large hole. Belay up and to the left on the arete. (exciting F5, ~100ft)

P3: Down climb into a notch and find a tunnel through to the east face. Belay at the next good ledge to reduce rope drag. (~100ft)

P4: Run up the tiptoe slab to the false summit (~180ft)

P5: Tag the summit... (~50ft)

Descent: Downclimb between the two summits, and angle back towards the 1st Flatiron. (F3)

Protection 

Rack to a #3 camolat, small TCU's helpful

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You run and you run to catch up with the sun, but ...

We didn't find the Hole, but stepped across from t...