Sigma 

Such a beautiful line that follows this S-curving crack. Pretty much a perfect route with the crux in the beginning, a rest in the middle and a sweet redpoint crux right at the end. There is also two no-hands kneebars and is very well protected. A hidden gem!

One of the best routes around. Simply beautiful and sustained, challenging moves over immaculate sandstone. Mike Dahlberg spent an outrageous amount of time preparing to bolt this so it would flow safely and smoothly without interupting the climbing. Kudos for the FA in the 1980's and in such a terrific job in protecting it!

Got on this route and almost got the onsight of it today. Super fun moves. Bolted extremely well, I felt like every bolt was right where I wanted it, Great Job Mike!

One of the best in the .12s in the midwest, on par with Wiskey a go go or any others! Great work Mike!

Anyone know if this has been led on gear?

no idea. but it can go. go for it!

I am not 100 percent positive but I believe that Mike lead many of these thin lines pre "city is cool with climbing" days.

"I am not 100 percent positive but I believe that Mike lead many of these thin lines pre "city is cool with climbing" days. "

By this do you mean he lead them on gear?

I am not aware of whether he did or did not lead them pre-cool city days, but he would have had to lead them on gear. Bolts were not added to these cliffs until the city was okay with it.

Mike Dahlberg got the TR-FA of Nexus, Sigma, Tool Boy and The Niche in the mid 1980's. He waited to bolt Sigma until well after the local non-bolting advocate was gone. He worked 8 days on getting the bolts in the best rock, best locations, and best type of bolt so it's quality was preserved. He got the FA-Lead the next week, mid 2000's. Sigma was not led with trad gear in the past. It would require hammering in vertical knifeblades, on-lead, at a grade not yet achieved in that style in the midwest prior to the bolts. No such scaring is evident in the sandstone. If Dahlberg didn't trad it in that fashion in the height of his trad days (see several of his heinous trad routes from that period) that were at that grade or harder, there's a reason for it. If anyone better than his mid-80's and 90's climbing form led it in such a fashion in that time or earlier, it would surely have surfaced and would have been more likely rehearsed, then soloed (which is conceivable for some of Dahlberg's peers which was their style at that time).

checked out the gear on sigma last weekend. it goes for sure, and it's pretty safe, maybe just PG rating.

obviously, you'll need lots of small stuff. triples of silver and purple TCU, as well as doubles of blue. you'll also need 3-5 brass nuts, the largest made by BD (5kn). a #1 BD camalot, oddly enough, is comes in handy, as well (it goes in the horizontal crack/pod/jug located mid-route).

all the cruxes protect very well. the only area that does not take the best gear is the dihedral in the end, which only takes brassies.

go lead it!