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Scott Nomi in the long corner.
A must-do classic right around the corner from Pratt's Crack. Follow a huge, clean-cut dihedral, jamming (hands) all the way up to a chimney move or two, then step right on a small ledge to the anchors.
Pratt's Crack Area, on the right side.
Up to 3". Need two ropes for rap.
Looking down from the chimney.
Getting a bit of a rest. Sort of. Well, not real...
Cleaning a piece at the start of the layback.
Robb works through the first crux of Sheila.
Fishing for a piece!
BETA PHOTO: start of the crux
It's go time.
The crack awaits me.
Getting ready for crux #1.
Yes, this is a rest.
Desperate times call for des...
The awesomeness continues.
Strenuous liebacking through crux #2.
From: Lyons, CO
Jul 12, 2007
The Bishop guide book calls for a 6" piece, but I couldn't find anywhere to place it. Extra 2-3" cams are useful.
|By Chris Owen|
From: La Crescenta and Big Bear Lake
Aug 25, 2007
Beautiful climb. Small stuff towards the end of the long corner.
|By Jonathan Howland|
Jul 3, 2009
Re: the 6 inch piece the first commentator didn't place -- it very nicely protects the crux lieback move. Alternatively, or in addition, once you start the lieback (and well above your last gear) you can get 2" piece (gold C4) high and deep in a recessed crack behind the block your hands are on.
|By Denis O'Connor|
Oct 16, 2009
FA: John Fischer, Jay Jensen, 1971
Aug 17, 2010
I would suggest carrying the 6" piece to protect the crux layback if, like me, you're trad lead limit is at around 5.10. I thought the layback was pretty committing and a fall would, it seemed to me, smash you back into the dihedral below. Pneumothorax anybody? On the bright side, at the top of the layback there's a jug and spot where you can literally straddle a pillar and have a seat!
From: Mojave, CA
Aug 31, 2010
There are three fixed cams as of 8-28-10.
1. One below the start of the crux lieback. (got stuck when my partner whipped off the crux, she didn't have a #6)
2. One up and to the left of the lieback. (It is possible to actually climb around the crux and do a variation up and left of the flake. I think this piece is from someone else also climbing this variation, 5.9???)
3. There's a fixed forged friend in the chimney if you look for it. You could actually avoid bringing the #4 at all if you trust this piece. (It was also there in 2008 when I led it.)
Also, the crux is not that difficult, but I recommend moving quickly through it. It is not a place you want to be looking to place gear.
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 8, 2010
I don't understand why everyone thinks the offwidth layback is "the" crux. It is strenuous, true, but the moves are straightforward and are over relatively quickly. A #6 is easy to place at the very top of the wide part if you stem high, thus making any falls you might take surely clean (non-pneumothorax-inducing).
The crux for me was clearly at the bottom of the route during the ridiculously thin traverse: much harder technically than the layback, not to mention the gear is much harder to fiddle in!
Bring a selection of super small wires and micro-cams. No extra 2s and 3s required (1-2 each are sufficient). I personally did use a #4 above the chimney at the top as my last piece before making the long traverse to the anchors.
|By Tavis Ricksecker|
From: Bishop, ca
Sep 30, 2010
Agree with Aerili, technical crux down low, mental crux at the spooky layback.
Jul 12, 2011
probably as good as any 10a pitch i have ever climbed. long, great rock, cool crux down low, cool crux up high, good gear, nice belay ledge, great crack climbing.... pretty sweet.
|By Christina Freschl|
From: Berkeley, California
Sep 25, 2011
A #6 is nice for the layback at the top, but I am a little bit scared by layback.
3 days ago
Hey Gang..... re gear...i have a #5 B.D. ..which is fine for a 6 inch crack.... will this work for the wide lieback?? .. not sure from the comments if you need a piece for a 6 inch crack or a #6 B.D.?
Hate to go buy a huge cam... but dont want to run it out... thanks for any beta..
|By Todd Townsend|
From: Bishop, CA
2 days ago
You'll want a #6 c4 camalot to protect the layback flake, a #5 is too small. Even with the #6, you still need to run it out a little.
I took the ride up there once, when my foot slipped at the very top of the layback. Even though I wasn't really that far above the #6, I still went quite the distance with all of the slack and rope stretch at that point.
Don't worry, it's exciting, but it's a clean fall!
2 days ago
coolio thxs Todd