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Olive Oil 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 7 pitches, 600'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Jorge Urioste, Joanne Urioste, & John Williamson - 1978
Page Views: 31,784
Submitted By: Josh Janes on Jan 1, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (290)
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Description 

A great, easy romp with 7 quality, consistent pitches. Start well around the left side of Rose Tower, up a gully of sorts at the base of a big corner/ramp.

P1: Begin at a rounded buttress just up and left from a deep recess. Climb slabby rock with sparse pro to a narrow alcove with a sandy floor and huecoed wall.

P2: Climb straight up nice, exposed cracks and then step back left into the corner and then up and left to a cramped belay perch.

P3: From the belay on the ledge to the left, traverse right 5 meters, follow line up and into left-facing corner (or stay on the face). Continue up and belay on a big ledge to your right. A long pitch.

P4: Climb up off the belay at a weakness and traverse right again across a slab and up into a dihedral (crux). Continue up this to the top. Scramble off the back of the tower.

Protection 

Standard Rack.


Photos of Olive Oil Slideshow Add Photo
Hey girl, Willy Wonka called and he wants his ice ...
Hey girl, Willy Wonka called and he wants his ice ...
Stef on the Descent with Crimson Chrysalis in the ...
Stef on the Descent with Crimson Chrysalis in the ...
Olive oil and its belays (not bolted)
BETA PHOTO: Olive oil and its belays (not bolted)
on the way down...
on the way down...
top* of pitch 3 of Olive Oil
top* of pitch 3 of Olive Oil
Gigi leading pitch 2 of Olive Oil
Gigi leading pitch 2 of Olive Oil
Looking up at the aesthetic crack on pitch 2 of Ol...
Looking up at the aesthetic crack on pitch 2 of Ol...
Ross leading pitch 1.
Ross leading pitch 1.
Irina gets lost in the chocolaty-vanilla swirlzzz....
Irina gets lost in the chocolaty-vanilla swirlzzz....
pitch 2
pitch 2
Last pitch of Olive Oil
Last pitch of Olive Oil
Mark starting up the second pitch.
Mark starting up the second pitch.
John Fernandez negotiating the big squeeze with hi...
John Fernandez negotiating the big squeeze with hi...
The 2nd and 4th pitches are good like everyone is ...
The 2nd and 4th pitches are good like everyone is ...
Ron Graham starting 4th pitch.
Ron Graham starting 4th pitch.
Larry looking gripped on the last pitch of Olive O...
Larry looking gripped on the last pitch of Olive O...
Looking up Pitch 2 at Shad Mickelberry (following ...
Looking up Pitch 2 at Shad Mickelberry (following ...
Pitch 5
Pitch 5
Outdoor artist Bonnie Kelso (www.bkelso.com) follo...
Outdoor artist Bonnie Kelso (www.bkelso.com) follo...
The descent gully.
The descent gully.
Matthew leading
Matthew leading
Last pitch of Olive Oil
Last pitch of Olive Oil
The start of pitch 2
The start of pitch 2
The traverse pitch up high.
The traverse pitch up high.

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 7, 2014
By semicolin1
Oct 14, 2014

CONDITION REPORT 
I'm posting this as a condition report so it expires in 3 months:

I climbed this route on 10/13/2014 and got pics of you and your son while you were on a guided climb. message me and I'll get them to you!

Otherwise, conditions that day were great. 83F and a slight breeze made it fairly comfortable.
By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2004

A fun and relatively friendly route. The start is a little confusing to locate, I remember that you start in a dark, cool slot, and climb up the face which forms the left side of this slot. The first pitch is called runout by Swain, but it is not that bad (it is runout, but quite easy). The second pitch enters a beautiful crack system.

Up high it can get confusing, but don't forget you are aiming for a huge corner that splits the summit in half, you need to traverse right at some point to reach it. The corner itself isn't well protected but is much easier than it looks from below (not that it looks that hard). The walk off is very easy and quick for Red Rocks.
By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Apr 5, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

To find the start of this route, scramble and thrash up the gully to the left of the Rose Tower and beyond Geronimo. It's best to stash your packs just before you start to enter the gully or else you'll have to make the worst part of the approach twice. Look for the corner that George mentions and a rib of rock to the left of it that leads to a small alcove/ledge with a small tree.

This is how we did it with a 60m:

P1: Climb this rib/face up to the tree. 5.6R

P2: Climb straight up the beautiful crack about 190' to a slopey ledge on the left.

P3: Work out to the right and up on 5.5R terrain, make an improbable rightward traverse onto a perfect ledge. Small nuts and cams for the belay.

P4: Climb up and right on an unprotected face to gain the large chimney/corner system. Make some steep and wild moves up this and belay after about 150'. 5.7

P5: Continue up this another 80' to the top of the Rose Tower. 5.6

Descend northwest down some hairy slabs until you hit a gully that heads down and to the east.

Fun route. Be careful on P3 to find the traverse and stay on route. The natural line here is to continue straight up and people have gotten into trouble as the climbing is 5.10 or harder...



By Scott Conner
From: Lyons, CO
Apr 5, 2004
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

BTW- I don't remember any bolts on this climb but it's been about 4 years... Have the belays been bolted recently?
By John Peterson
Apr 5, 2004

My favorite 5.7 at RR. The quickest way to go is in 4 pitches. As a previous comment mentions, it's possible to link 2 & 3 (this seems more like 200' to me - we had to take down the anchor and climb about 5' to stretch to the good ledge. Then a long traversing pitch to another huge ledge below the final corner.

We took this corner in a single 240' pitch. The first and last part of the pitch are very easy so you can completely avoid the semi-hanging belay without having to simul anything very hard.

In spite of all the "R" ratings here and in guidebooks I don't think there's anything on this route that would scare a competent 5.7 leader.
By Woody Stark
Apr 7, 2004

I bought a 70m rope just for use at RR, and Olive Oil was the first time I used it. It certainly eliminated some of the juggling on the 2nd/3rd and final two pitches. I combined both and turned the route into a comfortable four pitches. Combining the last two came out to 231 feet--just right. Of course, I didn't see my partner(daughter)often.
By Warren Teissier
May 5, 2004

After completing the Crux Dihedral, resist the urge to climb the small roundy "boulder summit" in front of you.

The route scrambles off to its right.

Not knowing this, I climbed to the top (5.7?). Nice view, but no way down. I found an ancient, way wobbly stardrive bolt with a ratty sling. No way I was going to rap off of this...So I had to downclimb and clean my gear, by far the scariest part of the whole climb.

Other than that I had a great time on this route.

WT
By JKVawter
May 21, 2004
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

In May 2001, my son and I did this route with the straight up variation. It is not 5.10. He was leading the third pitch and missed the big traverse to the right. We kept going on excellent, featured rock with good pro. I reached a crack that went up through an intimidating overhang with a bail sling and a biner, and two pieces of fixed fear gear. It turned out to be about 5.7. I continued up the crack to its end and belayed on top of another little tower. Around to the right was a nice view of the huge ledge below the final chimney pitch on the regular route. A spooky looking horizontal traverse looked like it would take us back to the regular route. There was a bit of rotten rock but it was easy to avoid. Great footholds made this spectacularly exposed traverse relatively easy. There was just one hard move, no more than 5.8, up a little seam to good holds, and into the chimney.
By John J. Glime
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Nov 1, 2004

Definitely three stars...pitch two is wonderful. There are bolted anchors on this route in two places, to the right of the crack on pitch two and when you get to the super-sized ledge before the final dihedral. Getting to the descent gully after finishing the climb should not be trivialized. There are tricky sections to downclimb, with semi-serious consequences depending on which route you take. This really isn't a big deal with daylight, but I could see a potential problem if you topped out at dusk/dark because of crowds, with your beginner girlfriend trailing along. Use caution.
By Legs Magillicutty
From: Littleton
Apr 6, 2005

Lost a pair of madrocks at the base of Olive Oil sometime during the 1st week of April. If you find them, please E-mail me at gurlyclimber@msn.com. I'll be back this spring/summer so I'll pick them up. Thanks. Will pay for your kindness with beer.
By kBobby
From: Spokane, WA
Jun 21, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The tree at the top of the first pitch is no longer in existence.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Feb 5, 2006

A quick note for folks considering this route. As of Feb 4th, 2006, there are no bolts on this route. Natural anchors are available, but some creativity at belays may be required.
By sqwirll
From: Las Vegas
May 1, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

We climbed this route with a 70m rope and did it in 4 pitches. Pitch 1 was really easy with 1 5.7 move to the alcove. We combined pitches 2 & 3 to the top of a pedestal after the crack joins back up with the corner (225 feet). Our third pitch climbed up easy terrain to the big ledge below the dihedral/chimney. Pitch 4 went up to the top of the dihedral/chimney. We soloed the last little 20 foot step up and right (very easy). The descent is very straight forward and I didn't think there was anything sketchy about it.
By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Nov 27, 2006
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

P2 and P4 are what make this route great. the P2 crack is nice with great exposure, while the P4 dihedral is immense and super exposed.
By Daniel Stright
Apr 30, 2007
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R

A great trad route. There are currently NO bolts on this route. Can be done in four pitches with a 60m rope with comfortable belay stances. The fifth pitch is a short scramble to the top from the belay at the dead snag at the top of the dihedral. The down climb to the top of the walk off gully has a few fourth class moves.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 24, 2007

Brandt, Cho and I did this route yesterday. The Weather was absolutly PERFECT. And the CLIMB was GREAT!!! and a total BLAST!!!... Easy, and a "CRUISE"...

the VIEW was unbelievable as ALWAYS at RR...

the CORNER was super COOL!!!...

What a KICK!!!...

I will say though that for the rating, it seems "SOFT"... but so the HELL what!!!... it was WELL WORTH IT...

a "BUSY" route in that there were at least five parties. Four of them being a party of three, as were we. Get there EARLY!!! We were the first at the gate and the first on the route. If you WANT PEACE and QUIET(???) on a CRUISING ROUTE, it WON'T be this one, at this time of year. It's "Big Time" popular and rightfully so...

I give it 3 out of 3 stars...

a BEAUTY!!!...
By Karsten
From: Sacramento, CA
Oct 24, 2007

An alternative to waiting for the loop road to open is to park at the donkey trail. Drive past where the loop road comes out, look for a donkey crossing sign on the right. Just after the donkey sign look for a faint pull-off and small place you can weave through the fence.

This approach adds a mile or so onto the approach but you can get the alpine start and also won't be at risk for a late exit pass. Overall it takes maybe 15 minutes longer to reach the crag even though your walking longer because of the time it takes to drive around the loop to the trailhead.
By Brandt Allen
From: Joshua Tree, Cal
Oct 25, 2007

I suppose if, LIKE LOCKER, you freeload your way up as the third man on every pitch, contributing next to nothing in getting up the route, it might feel soft for the grade. Those who lead and clean the climb will probably feel that the second and last pitches are indeed fairly rated at 5.7.
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
Oct 29, 2007

"contributing next to nothing in getting up the route"...

I was there to provide "Comic Relief"...

and to save your NUTS...

Nohing more...

Nothing less...
By The Gray Tradster
Oct 30, 2007

Did you play the bongos at the first belay?

If not

You failed the "comic relief" requirement.


hit the solution holes with a flat hand. most of a scale of notes
By trundlebum
From: Las Vegas NV
Jan 14, 2008

Nice romp.
Second pitch is a gem, but definitely run it together with the 3rd.

From the pedestal atop the 3rd I (following the sun) stepped left and climbed that corner.
This pitch was almost as good as the final pitch, with the exception of a couple small bushes and not being quite the length.
At the top of this pitch step left around a big chock stone,
(there were yellow jackets in a hueco up right)
and up onto a beautiful (sunny) belay ledge.

A short 30 meter 5.4 pitch takes you straight up to a easy foot traverse and right around the corner. Slither down the sidewalk and you can belay off a couple bomber wireds on a nice triangle ledge, in the corner below the final dihedral.

The descent is pretty casual.

-leave packs at mouth of canyon
-Run pitches 2 + 3 together
-get an early enough start to take in the 'Canola cracks' on the descent
By Gary Schmidt
From: Boulder, CO
Dec 3, 2008

Super fun route and a must do. Finding the start was a bit confusing as the scramble up the gully takes no obvious trail. Basically just stay as close as you can to the wall on your right. You will eventually come to a kind of rocky opening with a nice belay alcove. It seemed like pretty much a dead end after that. On the wall beside you is some faded chalk writing about bolts and rappelling or something. There is a "ugly" looking kind of cave to your right and to the left of that is a ramp pitch. The guide book says this pitch is run out but I was able to get two good pieces (a tri cam and an alien) just below the initial crux bulge move. After that, pretty much a romp.

Pitch two. Amazing crack that is pretty straightforward but will probably manage to catch your attention in a couple of places. Not for the aspiring 5.7 leader.

One note. We decided to take our packs up with us to avoid having to come back and retrieve them. Good idea until the final pitch where it really narrows in the chimney. Lots of subsequent grunting and expletives and certainly added to the adventure and difficulty of the pitch, but it all worked out and is doable. Just something to consider

Bring your headlamps! The descent gully would be a nightmare without one.
By Jason Halladay
Administrator
From: Los Alamos, NM
Dec 5, 2008
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Indeed there are no bolted belays on this route but it was unnecessarily lame of someone to graffiti the rock at the base of the route with a rock or chalk with the messages "Walk off" and "No bolts" or whatever it said.

The belay at the top of the fifth pitch on the big ledge before the big corner was a bit tricky to setup. A BD 4 at your feet would work well but we didn't carry anything that big. A wobbly 3 and slung chickenhead worked OK.
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 13, 2009

Why did someone chop the anchors?
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 16, 2009

Aimee-

They were very unnecessary- they didnt allow for rappel (the anchors were only at the top of the 2nd and 3rd pitches), and there were good gear anchors right next to them. Since there was no real advantage for them, they were rightfully chopped. (IMHO, its one of the better chop jobs i've seen- the old bolt holes are VERY tough to find...)
By Debbie Vischer
From: Loveland
Feb 16, 2010

We did this in 4 pitches with a 60m rope. The 1st & 2nd belays weren't super ideal (uncomfortable), but doable. The last pitch up the chimney is super fun, esp if you like stemming. The summit is huge with fantastic views of Vegas and surrounding areas. The walk-off is very easy.
By GMBurns
Mar 2, 2010
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13

A #4 is helpful on P4.
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Detroit, MI
Mar 8, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Approach was fairly straightforward. Once you start to enter the canyon, hug the right wall tight while scrambling upwards. The route starts on a slabby section of rock directly left of a "polished chimney." It's got some varnish in the chimney, and its pretty deep, maybe 20 feet back or so.

First belay ledge is great. Second belay was semi-hanging. Got stuck in it for about an hour and a half trying to untangle ropes. I was expecting bolted anchors (our guidebook was old), and had to improvise a bit with the anchor since gear was sparse. After that delay, we continued up to the belay ledge off to the left for the start of pitch 4. Pitches 2 and 3 can be combined with a 70 meter rope, but we were using 2 60's (party of 3). Our leader hit the traverse in pitch 4, but hit it too late. Your belay for pitch 5 is atop of a large pillar on the right, but the best traverse point is probably 20-30 feet below the top of the pillar. If you traverse when you are level with the pillar, it is possible, but very sketchy 5.10ish climbing. Also makes the traverse very dangerous for your second climbers. We climbed pitch 5 in the dark, which was fine, but screwed us up on the walk off. After pitch 5, which is a rope stretcher. We went up to the right (not sure if this is correct, but is still possible). It was some mid fifth class climbing for a very short period (20 feet maybe?) which turned into a monkey run as the slab angle lessened. Once at the top, we struggled to find the walk off. We spent about an hour searching, but with three people and one and a half headlamps (one good one, one very dim, and one dead), the process was slow and unsuccessful. We managed to make a call to the members of our climbing group waiting in the car to get better information. Here is what we did.

Descent:
After finishing the short last "pitch," climb the low angle slabs up to the highest point of rose tower. When we were there (March 2, 2010) there was a cairn here. Continue left down the slabs along the ridge of Rose Tower (there is a large drop off on your right) until you reach a small drop that requires some 4th class scrambling/down climbing. After this drop, you are in a small notch of rock. DO NOT GO LEFT. Continue straight along the ridge up by some bushes until you get to a larger drop off with a large ledge below and some bushes up ahead to the right. This drop is down climbable because of the large intermediate ledge that sticks out of the wall. Assist the first person down to this ledge, and then spot the second people. (This also goes for the first down climb/scramble.) Once you have lowered off this second ledge, there is a cairn and the bushy walk off about 20 feet ahead a bit to the right. After this, scramble down the bushy, rocky walkoff to the side of Rose Tower.


This descent would be a piece of cake to find and manage in the day, but at night, things become very elusive and difficult. We finished the climb at around 7pm and managed to get back to the car around 1am.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 8, 2010

For those who plan on climbing this route with a 60m line- if you are both competent at 5.8 or stronger, its ideal for the leader to combine pitch 2 and 3 to make the belay ledge atop the dihedral- this requires the belayer to climb up about...6-10 feet into the varnished corner above belay- the climbing is casual- 5.0 or so and allows for a comfortable stance once the leader makes the ledge and needs to set up belay. The gear in the anchor, if i recall correctly, would also allow the belayer to set up a temp anchor with a piece or two while the leader sets up their anchor above.

its also ideal for this scenario to play out on the last pitch (if necessary- a 60m BARELY makes it from the top of the pillar to the top of the final pitch).
By Aimee Rose
From: Bend, or
Nov 13, 2010

How much of a true "tower" is this? I'm wondering if I should bring my hula hoop. I'm looking to hula hoop on top of various towers and spires. Thanks.
By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Nov 14, 2010

Aimee- imho, rose tower is really more of a big buttress than a tower- it's not freestanding by any means- rather it protrudes from the side of the hill it's perched on only slightly.
By iwaclimber
From: San Pedro
Dec 20, 2010

A good link- is to climbing Olive Oil and then climb Mister Z. My partner and I did it this past weekend, and it was a nice day of climbing.
By Floridaputz
From: Oakland Park, Florida
Mar 22, 2011

I just climbed this for the 4th time and enjoyed it tremedously. The 2nd pitch is so good and P4 is classic red rocks. Only one rope needed because of the walk off. Great half day adventure.
By Robbie Flick
From: Denver, CO
Mar 24, 2011

Climbed this on 3/22. Didn't see one bolt the entire time. Did it in 5 pitches with 60m doubles. Belays are mostly obvious, but make sure you cut out right after the third belay to stay on route - I've heard of parties going left, which makes for a much more difficult challenge.

Be prepared for crowds - we got on behind 3 other parties. Everyone was very friendly and helpful, however the first party got lost routefinding and the entire route got clogged up. We expected to be done in 5 hours by ~3 pm and were summiting at 7:30 pm in twilight, happy that we decided to pack our headlamps for what we were sure would be a short route. Keep this in mind.

Also, the last pitch felt pretty stiff compared to the rest of the route. Overall a fantastic climb and highly recommended.
By Tim Hadfield
From: Steamboat Springs, Co
Apr 30, 2011

This route forces giggles and grins from you start to finish! Especially the top 2/3.
By Mike Caruso
May 4, 2011
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Had this all to ourselves on a Tuesday, but due to late start and three in the party, we got to the descent gully just before dark. The descent is no fun with head lamps. Got back to the car about 10pm. Still a great route and P2 goes on forever.
By HunterD
Jan 3, 2012

I have a little bit to add/change. I did this route in 4 pitches with a single 70m rope. No hanging belays.
P1: climbing up the ramp to a smally, sandy hole with a small tree stump and a standing belay (~100 feet)
P2: take the face crack out of the alcove, eventually meeting back with the corner on the left near the top. "crouching" belay (~200 feet!)
P3: traverse right to the center face crack. Beware of the corner/column to the right, when it becomes a ledge, be on it! (~130 feet) a nice belay ledge, large cams for anchors.
P4: off the ledge and to the right takes you to a dihedral and eventual chimney. I had to take my pack off mid-route. top out (~180 feet)
Downclimbing: gnarly 4th and 3rd class down the gulley, well traveled. bring thick pants for the cactus!
By Greg-Az
From: Prescott Az
Jan 11, 2012

There was nothing really special about this route other than four easy and fun pitches. The absense of bolts made building anchors more fun as well as allowed the leader the option of going off route. As for the runouts I didnt find them to be too bad and I dont think a 5.7 leader would have any probelm with them.
By Stefano Prezioso
From: Detroit, MI
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Even with a 60m rope, you really should consider doing this climb in four pitches, linking pitches 2 and 3. As others have stated, this requires about 10 feet of simul-climbing up 5.easy terrain to a good stance where you can wait for your leader to build the anchor. This is much better than dealing with the semi-hanging belay. Did it today, and things went very smoothly.
By Cultivating Mass
Jul 28, 2012

A 70 meter rope shines on this route, recommended, no simuling needed with the proper cord.

Done this thing a million times, nice mellow romp. Noticed that there has been a recent bolt-and-chop game being played on this route-I would say the choppers are winning this round. Saw a well-patched hole (you start noticing these things once you replace a few hundred bolts for the ASCA) at the first pitch crux, the patched hole was less than 2 feet from bomber .4 and .75 camalot placements. Saw a couple more patched used-to-be-stations up higher, looks like some enlightened drill owner decided to set up arbitrary stations right by good gear. Tune in next week to As the Olive Oil Turns....

We used a bunch of #1 camalots on this thing. We brought three and used all of them on pitches 2+4. There are a couple of well-stuck nice looking C4s on pitch 2, but you're gonna need a work ethic to get 'em out....deeper in than nut tools can reach.
By Danny Weisberg
Nov 29, 2012

There are no belay bolts/anchor bolts on this route. Gear anchors are good, just bring enough gear. The pitches are long and can use up gear, space it out. The gear is good for any moves you may feel uncertain about and the run outs are up easy terrain. The guide book gives the best description of the route with sizes for the anchors. It should only take 5 pitches of roped climbing and top out with a 30ft 4th class scramble to the summit.
By Taylor Jackson
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Mar 23, 2013

Found a pair of 5.10's at the top of the route. Message me with description. Fun route, easy and enjoyable for the grade.
By austin ely
From: Las Vegas, NV
Mar 31, 2013

Did this yesterday in 5 pitches (could have easily been 4) with a single 60m. Here's how:

P1: Climb up the ramp full of pockets, step left around the crux bulge where it's juggier, up the the standard belay at ca. 90 feet in the sandy alcove.

P2: Climb up the jugs and out to the crack system to the right of the big corner. This is a full rope length and then some (210-ish feet), just keep following the crack until the pillar to your left becomes a sloping ledge with a fixed cam behind a block. Since the belay is so roomy at the bottom, the second can leave minimal protection in to make cleaning the anchor a breeze. Once the rope runs out, the second should simul up about 10 feet to a great stance while the leader builds an anchor at the top.

P3/4: Head up and right on the really easy 5.5 terrain. Pass (or belay at) a sloping ledge on the right underneath a roof (70 feet) or just keep going up to the gigantic belay ledge at the base of the final corner (50 feet).

P5 (4): Make the standard step right, and go up the crack until it gets easier. Keep going until you can no longer see your belayer, at which point you should have about 20 feet of rope left. Stretch it to the top and find a great alcove with a crack recessed on the right that takes big cams (#5 camalot, might be a space for a 4 or a 3 higher or lower) -- make sure you don't use your big stuff in the chimney! 195 feet.

Scramble up to the right on a ramp which feels easier than the class 4 descent.
By Stan Pitcher
From: SLC, UT
Apr 10, 2013

Great and beautiful route! So glad the bolts/belays were removed. The belay at the last big ledge can be made using nuts, hand-size cams, or just use your rope to lasso the whole belay ledge.
By AOSR
From: Wherever we park!
Dec 13, 2013

Fun route. Almost entirely in the sun in December. I think it would be most efficient to hang a right at the wilderness sign, hike the trail to the descent gully, drop packs there, then follow another short trail to the next gully and begin your climb.
By Josh Z
From: Boston, MA
Jan 6, 2014

We did this Dec 28, 2013 with double 60m ropes in 4 pitches (although we had to simul-climb the last 30-ish feet of pitch 4 because we ran out of rope), using the 4 pitches in the Roxanna Brock guidebook.

This climb was AWESOME and crazy fun. But I want to point out two things:

-It seemed to me like the sloping ledge belay right before the traverse right (it's the top of pitch 2 in the Brock guide, and I think the top of pitch 3 in the Mountain Project beta) was actually two massive but detached blocks. Did this worry anyone else? The right-side block didn't look to be sitting on much; I couldn't see whether the left-side block was detached or what it was on. That belay spooked me and gave me the heebie-jeebies.

-The walk-off descent had massive steps down at two points, which were pretty 4th-class scary in the dark. My partner and I are both tall, and the steps down would probably have been trickier and scarier if we were short.
By Alain Rodriguez
Mar 30, 2014

WATCH OUT FOR PITCH 1.

Although a very easy pitch we ended up setting up belay about 20 yards to the left of the right spot. The right spot is a comfortable large sandy Alcove/cave with enough space for 3 pple with bomber cracks.

Please stick to the right when climbing the first pitch and you will end up on the right spot.

What made it tricky is that the description on the guide book for the second pitch also matches the false/wrong route that we took, so you think you are on track, until you get half way up the false/wrong second pitch and then it doesn't feel like a 5.7 anymore, more like a 5.10.. at the time of our climb there were 2 nuts with one binner that looks like pple have used to bail out and go down and back to the right route.
By Fan Z.
From: Washington, DC
Apr 7, 2014
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Climbed with JV on 3/31/14. Very windy, meaning it was comfortable when the sun was out and cold when it was cloudy. There was one party ahead of us and at least two behind us. Linked P2&3 with a 70m rope. I second the descent beta by Stefano Prezioso (above). Getting off the summit of Rose Tower involved some sketchy down climbing initially with bad fall consequences. But once in the descent gully, route finding was straight forward and almost never 5th class. Descent was a little painful because we left our approach shoes at the base of the climb.

Things to do differently next time: Take approach shoes on climb. Wear more sun screen. Be prepared for colder temps above P1 if windy. Most importantly, on the approach hike in, stash packs with stuff not needed for the climb near bottom of descent trail, thus saving at least 30 minutes of scrambling to retrieve gear at end of a long day.