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Old Stagecoach Road Rock Climbing

Climbing Area Map

Routes in Old Stagecoach Road

L › R R › L A › Z

	Augustin's Flake T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Cactus Karma T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Carly's Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
	Face, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
	Forest's Face T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
	Monkeywrenchin' Momma S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	No. 1 G S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Piton Crack T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
	Po'Pay's Revolt S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Pockets S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
	Prow, The S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Stem It Black T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Sunburned S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Three's a Crowd S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

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Elevation:	6,300 ft	1,920 m
GPS:	36.537, -105.7082 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
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Shared By:	Mike Howard on Dec 13, 2006
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Access Issue: Effective May 2025 - Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for BLM walls in the Taos Gorge area. Details

The BLM Taos Field Office implemented a Climbing Fixed Hardware Authorization Process for routes within its management area. The final document can be found online: shorturl.at/FYn4f

Description

The old westward bound stage crossing from the original John Dunn Bridge over the Rio Grande. Massive stone walls and old roadbed bring you to the base of the crag just upstream and northwest of the rafters' put-in for the Upper Box. Short (40 ft) crag with 5.5 to 5.11 trad and sport routes. Great Spring and Fall climbing with easy access (5 min approach). You can swim in the Rio if you are overheated or dip in the hotsprings if you're chilled.

See "Taos Rock Climbs & Boulders of Northern New Mexico" by Jay Foley, Sharp End Books, 2005. The only complete guide for the other climbs in this area.

The anchors for these climbs can be reached from the top. Follow the old road up left and scramble along the top (careful to not knock rock down on your party). Some are pretty easy to rig (the sport routes). Otherwise, look to sling trees at the top to reach them.

Getting There

Same as for John's Wall but continue across the Rio Grande and turn North after the John Dunn bridge and park at the end of the road. A fisherman's trail heads north to cairned climbers trail onto the Old Stage Coach Road

14 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Old Stagecoach Road

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.

5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 16 ● Augustin's Flake Trad
5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c 20 ● Cactus Karma Trad
5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a 42 ● Sunburned Sport, TR
5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a 30 ● Pockets Sport
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b 18 ● Monkeywrenchin' Momma Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b 15 ● Po'Pay's Revolt Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b 13 ● Piton Crack Trad
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c 36 ● The Prow Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a 9 ● The Face Sport